M880's 2nd Life

Thanks guys ..It looks like Por15 will be my choice. Now I just have to figure out how to get the leftover paint off before it's applied. I'm still looking for a sanblasting service that will come out and do it in place. If I can't find anyone ...it's either buy a Sears blaster or start grinding before it starts to snow . The Rust issue is turning into the biggest PAIN of this whole project. Guess that's to be expected.

Just wondering how the restoration is going?

Well ...my hands are a little tied because my friend (the Mechanic in this show) has been really busy. I did have the Transmission rebuilt and I decided to use that new crated up Transfer case I was saving. I had the Radiator redone ..ordered 3 Gallons of Por15 as well as the Metal Prep.
I still have to find a set of Bolts (Cab to Frame) ..but I bought a new set of those synthetic Bushings for the Bed and Cab (hope that was the right move)
As soon as he fixes the small holes in the floor (I think he's welding small panels in instead if patching) Then I can Zink prime it ..and give it the first OD coat.
I didn't know if I should prime the bottom of the cab first & then coat it with the Por15 ..or just skip the primer and only use the Por15.

I'd really love to have it back ...I hope it's finished before it starts snowing , I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Maybe this week we can get more done on it.

POR15 it, then paint. POR isn't meant to be used over anything but bare/rusted metal.

Thanks for that ...that will also save me a lot of time (and primer)
I'll use the Por15 first and wait until it's "tacky" THEN , hit it with the Primer ..otherwise I hear it's almost impossible to have Paint stick to it once it's dried.

That's the word I got. You definitely want to cover it as it shrinks when exposed to UV rays. Ask me how I know.

As soon as he welds/fixes the floorpan ..I'll start painting. This week I'll clean the frame the best I can and coat it with the Por15 ..at least I can start that.
I'll take some more pictures and post 'em this week.

Where about in NY are you...I ask because a guy on the M715zone was on the east coast near the water and the salt in the air from the ocean caused the POR15 to not stick. If your in upstate it won't mater, but if your on lawnguyland it might make a difference.

and AJ how do you know?

I'm about 1 hour north of the City right on the Hudson (close to West Point) so ..luckily I don't think that will be a problem .
I stopped by to check on it today and ..the Family who's yard it's in would really like to get it finished and out as well. They said they want it finished and out of there by Thanksgiving. I'm not a hard-core Mechanic but , I'll start doing whatever I can. First thing in the Morning I'm going to pressure wash the frame and body to get it ready for the Por 15 the let it dry ..then Tuesday I'll goop the 15 on and hit it with the first coat of OD.

Ummm, you really should use the rust converter and marine clean degreaser they sell with it. It's never worked as well as claimed without those from my experience. They talk like you can just goop it on but if you read their instructions they have a bunch of stuff to do before you apply it.


I've done several trucks with it and the POR15 will invariably shrink a little around the edges and then start to peel if not topcoated. I won't use it any more. From reviews on www.ColoradoK5.com Chassis Saver by Magnet paint does the same function as POR but won't shrink. I used some a year ago but it got topcoated with Herculiner on my Tracker and so far, so good.

Well ..I just spent the last 2 days degreasing the frame and other parts , getting ready to paint the Frame. Luckily , Frank ( the Gent who's yard it's in) has been helping me out....he's been a great help. He lifted it so I could Powerwash the hard to get areas. Despite years of Grease & Oil caked on, it cleaned up nicely. Must have Powerwashed 50K miles off it .Here are a few shots --

I hit it with "GUNK" first ..blew everything off and let it dry last night. Then today I sprayed it with the Por15 brand Marine degreaser and hit it again with the Powerwasher.
I figured that would remove any residue the "Gunk" left behind. (don't want any thing to cause any problems or prevent the Por15 from sticking)
Next I'll spray it down with the Por15 brand "Metal Prep" and then paint the Por15 on it.

My Mechanic did put the 318 together so at least that's done. (does the Blue Color he used look correct to you guys ? ? Looks a little "Richard Simmons " to me ) once we fix the small rust on the floorboards , we should be able to assemble it ..I hope

Do any of you know what would be the best brand of Black Paint I should use on the Frame (after I coat it with Por15)
AJM , you mentioned “Herculiner” …is that a brand name ?
In a way , I was wondering if I should just paint it OD so it matches everything else (although , it wouldn’t be regulation)
not sure what direction to take here

That paint is definitely correct for a 1972-newer Chrysler engine.

Looking good Mike.. I have had no luck on getting you a set of axles for a reasonable price. I am down to one set and a extra rear. I might be coming out your way in a month or two but you said you wanted them in October. Any luck on your end?

clinto said:

That paint is definitely correct for a 1972-newer Chrysler engine.

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Thanks Clinto ...I guess I'll just have to get use to that Powder Blue.
At least it's not Pink

citizensoldier said:

Looking good Mike.. I have had no luck on getting you a set of axles for a reasonable price.

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Hi Lane ..just PM'd you. Is the last set with you , or that set in Florida ?
I've been trying to find someone to bring them to NY but ..no luck.

Herculiner is a do-it-yourself bedliner kit. Many people use it as a heavy duty metal protectant paint. If you do it right it takes a beating and keeps on going.

Ok , I think I know what you mean ...I've seen some guys use a very thick paint/coating that has a "speckled" effect on the bed. I'm sure they offer different versions.
Between the Por15 and putting that on top ..maybe that would be too thick. I don't want the frame to look like I undercoated it.
I'll see if I can find the best Paint to use ..or as I said , maybe I could just OD it ..that way any future touch up would be a cinch and really easy to maintain.

I've been on the Web and phone all morning trying to find new Bolts for the Cab and Bed to the Frame ...can't find them anywhere. One gent told me to buy only Grade 8.
Anyone know who might have them ?

Are you wanting the factory type bolts or just a bolt the right size and length? The factory ones are normally listed as "Not Serviced" meaning the factory doesn't keep them on hand and sell them by part number so you have to source them locally. So if you want factory ones, you will have to salvage them off another truck. If you just want something that fits, I recommend McMaster-Carr at www.mcmaster.com Fastenal also carries a lot of bolts but their website doesn't have anywhere near as much stuff as McMaster does. I just ordered enough bolts to do replace the ones on my W250 springs and Dana 60s that are going under my '88 Ramcharger from McMaster and the prices were reasonable and they were shipped quick. I should get them any day now.