New guy from PA just acquired an M35A1

welcome from grove city.

I just assumed this thing had a fdc, I have been trying to find out as much as I can about the am and the 427. Seems most information is scattered here and there, and you have to sift. I'll get some pictures of the turbo next time I'm out playing with it. As far as the side letter, I have no idea why they did that. Makes no sense. I know it had a hard life, I cleaned about 2 inches of bark out of the bed, so I'm assuming it was used to get fire wood.

I'm aware of the weak head gaskets, I was planning on upgrading them eventually if something happened. I'm not looking to trash anything, just want her to run a little better. That's why first thin is to clean out the tank, lines, and replace the filters. I have been looking around and can't seem to find what kind if lift pump pressure this pump likes. Just so I can check mine and make sure it's delivering.

So far I like it, there are some things I'm not wild about, but most of that is previous owner neglect and abuse. One thing is I'm definitely hooked though part of me still kind of wants an a3 w/w. I originally was gonna Bob it but seeing how it's a rare bird that kind of went by the way side.


And hello to all the locals. Didn't realize there where so many close members.

Your in tank pump should put out about 5-7psi. The primary filter is under the alt, the secondary filters are on the side of the block. I have USGI secondary filters for $5 if you'd be interested, please send a PM. The primary filters are Napa 3511.

The 427 I just took apart had the new style head gaskets on it. If you look at the side of the block by the intake/exhaust manifolds, you might see tabs sticking out between the heads and block, that would indicate old style head gaskets.

A little late on the pick-up here, but welcome.

If i didnt have the napa ones i would be hitting you up. Do you have oil filters?

5-7psi? Any idea if these pumps would benefit from more LP pressure or is the pump at risk with anything over that setting?

Welcome, read, wrench, ride! Enjoy the fellowship!

Nope, the low psi is just to bleed air from the system. Once the fuel hits the injection pump, there is another fuel pump in the IP that bumps it up to 35-70psi.

Did some more digging today. Can only assume the canister in the pictures is either start, but can anybody tell me what the thing on the turbo outlet is with both the 1/8 and 3/8 air line coming i out of it is?? And what are the contraptions below the turbo mounted on the engine block that these lines run too?

Also looking for a manual on the a1's with the 427 if there are any, so i can educate myself without asking (probably) simple questions.

Rick

Not positive, but looks like a flame manifold heater of some sort.

Yup, Intake manifold heater. The thing with fuel tube going to it is basically a squirt gun and that round canister is a coil which goes to a spark plug to ignite the fuel.

Those have been known to leak, I removed mine. Unless you get into -20* weather they are not really needed.

Wow, smacking myself in the forehead. Dunno how I missed this thread. I have an A1 and A1 fever, I'm always digging around looking for info on them...I get a kick out of tracking down all the little differences. I intend to eventually do a definitive A1 thread with all the info in one place.

You truck looks pretty nice, waaay nicer than mine.

One thing to note, the primary or trash filter (passenger frame rail) on mine was original A1 and has brass wafers for a filter in it. The secondary filter housing looks like the final but has a goofy sock-looking filter in it. The A2 paper filter won't fit. I modified my canister, or just see if you can get an A2 canister for the paper A2 element. My build thread is in my sig, and here is my photo album.Both have pics of the filter stuff.

http://s142.photobucket.com/user/DavidWhymore/library/DEUCE?sort=3&page=1

Here's some manuals/TMs to get you started. I have found the "troubleshooting" manuals to be very useful.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?113-The-Deuce-TMs


http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm



More pics of your truck would be cool, esp interior. Welcome, and thanks!

Welcome to the site and good luck. What part of PA? I'm in northeastern pa

Sorry. Been busy with work. Finally got all the problematic brass fuel lines removed. No more leaks!! I have noticed that even warm and now that I only have diesel in the tank she still takes some cranking to get it to fire. Not sure if bumping fuel would help or if maybe my lift pump on the pump is losing prim. I'll look further into it soon I hope.

I'm in new Brighton pa, little north of Pittsburg.

I'm having the same issue with my newly acquired truck. Might also be the shutoff not opening all the way.

Stick a fuel pressure gauge in the rearward bleeder hole on top of the filters, it's 1/8" pipe thread.

EDIT: Shoulde be about 30-40 psi at idle and 70-80 at full throttle.

Has anybody eliminated the intank electric pump and just used the mechanical lift pump?

Inline6359 said:

Has anybody eliminated the intank electric pump and just used the mechanical lift pump?

Click to expand...

Yes, but not recommended. The intank pump is the lift pump and makes 5-7 psi to get it to the mechanical booster pump which makes the real pressure. It will run without the electric pump, but not as well, and not at all if you get an air leak in a line. The electric pump is nice for bleeding air out of the system if it gets air in it from working on it or running out of fuel. I think there's also risk of damage to the injection pump.

Yes without the electric lift pump the injector pump will sustain damage from fuel starvation over time.

Back for an update as work has been keeping me so busy I haven't had time to enjoy the truck. I got it running on diesel and it seems to have slightly more power and is starting way better now, still chasing electrical gremlins when I get time, I have only headlights, nothing else! I ordered a passenger seat cover and have been on the lookout for 2 windshield washer motors with arms and blades as well, can't seem to justify the 250 bucks I have seen them go for.

One thing I need to do is bump the fuel, not get crazy, but just a little and install a Pyro at the same time. Still looking for a decent one.

I can't remember who makes them, but I like the combo pyro/boost gauge.