MEP-802/803 fuel return improvements

My memory is not that good but I don't think the top cover needs to come off I think the rear cover does to run the fuel return line back to the tank but I am not 100% sure. I have had the top cover off of one of my generators and multiple back covers on multiple machines.
the top cover is not that bad to take off but again I don't think it needs to come off. I also do not think anything needs to be touched on the air cleaner assembly. I think there were a few smaller metric return fuel hoses that use that german VW fuel hose and the ones on the injectors are 1/4"
I finally got to use my 2 Mep 803a's about a week ago for about 5 days straight after a wind storm hit the east coast without any issues or leaks running my entire house and my shop.

Everyones advice is spot on. And I will also say it really is not a big deal. Take that top cover off, will make your life much easier and since you just bought it, you should go over things and check it all out. With covers off you will be able to see everything. I would suggest a little battery operated impact gun to do removal of the screws. I can have the 2 tops off in 10 min or less. The fuel tank cover will need to come off. Not the whole radiator, just the cover around the fuel cap. Just use common sense and you will see what screws have to come out. I have a fuel level sender issue on my 803 that I need to resolve and will just pop the necessary screws out and investigate. Good luck!

Use a battery operated drill and use a screwdriver bit extension, then a 5/16 socket bit. You can usually hold the nuts on the bottom with your hand and loosen them quickly with the screwdriver. After you get use to it, it only takes 5 minutes to take it off. Real easy.

When you take everything apart, buy some good 10-32 aluminum rivnuts (30 to 40 cents each) and a installation gun and put them everywhere you do not have a captive nut. Also buy you a small qty of captive nuts and replace the ones that are rusty. I throw all the bolts away that are rusty and replace. I use zinc coated locking flange bolts. Be careful when you mix metals as you will get galvanic corrosion (SS and Aluminum). Aluminum adjoins zinc in the galvanic series. Be very careful not to drop nuts and washers into the main generator when you take them out of the top behind the air filter. While you everything apart clean up all the lost nuts and washers in the control panel area too. I spend the day taking a unit apart and putting in rivnuts. Now fix everything and clean everything. Replace your well nuts too! It takes no time to put everything back together again. You will be glad you did!

And use anti seize on every nut and bolt!! You will like the results down the road.

Farmitall said:

And use anti seize on every nut and bolt!! You will like the results down the road.

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Couldn't agree with that more. I keep a tube in every tool bag and box I have.

Gentlemen: Thanks for the help. Got it all together the other day. Pretty easy job. I bought the recommended Continental line online, and all told, about an hours worth of work. What I was most worried about was bolts on the back of the cover near the radiator; I did not know the nuts were captive. They were. Easy job, no more leaks (for now).

EFR said:

Gentlemen: Thanks for the help. Got it all together the other day. Pretty easy job. I bought the recommended Continental line online, and all told, about an hours worth of work. What I was most worried about was bolts on the back of the cover near the radiator; I did not know the nuts were captive. They were. Easy job, no more leaks (for now).

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Ah yes! Those inscrutable parts TM's. Never hurts to take a peek in them.

EFR said:

Gentlemen: Thanks for the help. Got it all together the other day. Pretty easy job. I bought the recommended Continental line online, and all told, about an hours worth of work. What I was most worried about was bolts on the back of the cover near the radiator; I did not know the nuts were captive. They were. Easy job, no more leaks (for now).

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Howdy,
Not so fast.
You must have a 2008 or newer unit. It was around the 2008 and onward timeframe when they started using captive nuts. I know both my 2007 MEP-802A and 2007 MEP-803A do not have any captive nuts.

I just worked on a 2011 803A and almost everything was captive nuts. My personal 2010 803A did not have them in as many places as the 2011, but had far more than the 2008 I worked on previously. Seems like they added a few more every year of manufacture starting around 2009 or so

Daybreak said:

Howdy,
Not so fast.
You must have a 2008 or newer unit. It was around the 2008 and onward timeframe when they started using captive nuts. I know both my 2007 MEP-802A and 2007 MEP-803A do not have any captive nuts.

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2010 803a according to tag.

Found another lower priced source of the CRP 3.5mm hose. https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/N2035315M CRP-Contitech Bulk Hose 3.5mm ID x 2mm Wall; Braided; 5 METER ROLL


$21.44 plus shipping. I paid $9.95 shipping to Orlando, Fl. Total $31.39.

They also have the heavy duty high pressure CRP N203535-5 CONTITECH Diesel Hose recommended by Daybreak. Price is $29.73 for 5 meters, plus shipping.

I just bought both lines for $51 free shipping. When I did the initial inspection on mine, I did not like the fuel return lines. Don't think they are stock on the machine. Also noted new clamps and fuel lines but they are not the proper ones.

Thanks for the source.

I paid like $26 for a 50 foot roll of gates 1/8" hose. It has done 4 units. I've had real good luck with gates hoses on vehicles and equipment so I'd anticipate it lasting longer than the specified line for these.

Ive used the Gates from O Reillys... its a little undersized, so it takes some definite elbow grease. But its readily in stock down the road, and should last quite long.

Light in the Dark said:

Ive used the Gates from O Reillys... its a little undersized, so it takes some definite elbow grease. But its readily in stock down the road, and should last quite long.

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This is where it gets tricky. I have used the Gates hose from Oreillys and Napa. It is a little snug. The rolls I have ordered fit perfectly, just like the stock fuel line. I don't know what the difference is between local stock and what I ordered. What I ordered is diesel line though

Getting ready to remedy this problem on my machine. The Continental stuff is 12.99 a meter. How much will it take?

I am about to tackle this and was going to replace all the nuts with rivnuts, but I can't seem to find a 10-32 rivnut setter that isn't rated as garbage. A lot of the astro pneumatics come with 10-24, but that leaves me with different pitch bolts on the same machine, which I am certain will come back to bite me, and I would need to buy additional 10-24 bolts.

What's the best way to get this done?


Edit:

I found a mandrel for 10-32(1442-10/32A) that will fit the Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 nut setter. Both available from amazon.

Well, what ever you do, do not have two different pitches on the same machine. I would have voted for zippers, as all the screwing was a PITA.

smokem joe said:

This is where it gets tricky. I have used the Gates hose from Oreillys and Napa. It is a little snug. The rolls I have ordered fit perfectly, just like the stock fuel line. I don't know what the difference is between local stock and what I ordered. What I ordered is diesel line though

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Do you have a part number for what you ordered (Gates 1/8 hose)