Meet Mr Rusty

cucvrus · Jul 11, 2015

Mr Rusty had some more parts painted today. I was also able to reinstall the rear differential ,the rear brakes and new wheel cylinders. I see the pictures doubled. It makes me feel like I worked twice as hard. And I did. I always do. I have more equipment at my full time job. I just know how to do it both ways. It makes me have to never say I can't do it.

This is a bucket of discarded rear brake parts. Thank you for looking and have a nice day. Tomorrow I am going riding.
Thank you to whoever removed the double pictures. I am not sure how that happened but thank you for fixing it.

Recovry4x4 · Jul 11, 2015

Looks super good Sir. What a difference.

MuleMac01 · Jul 13, 2015

LOOKS good great job!!

cucvrus · Jul 13, 2015

Nice clean parts are nice to work with. I left these soak in the parts washer and then removed then and left them sit yesterday while I was out riding and they look so pretty. I reassembled the rear hubs to the drums and replaced the studs and have the drums on the rear axle. I did not put the axle nuts on until I get the e-brake all operational. I do not have the cable to cable e-brake connection in stock. I will have to pick one up tomorrow. Thank you for looking have a nice day.

xfillxupx · Jul 14, 2015

Hey Bud; I just seen this post! I'm located in Gillett PA just south of you, if need any parts let me know. I have a M1008 and a parts truck as well as many other c30s and k30s.

MarcusOReallyus · Jul 14, 2015

Hey, new guy! Welcome aboard. :beer:

Chances are, Rick has more parts than you already. :mrgreen:

cucvrus · Jul 15, 2015

It has been a long day. i installed the e-brake cable and adjusted it. I installed the axles and called it a night. Tomorrow maybe some more. Maybe not.

rustystud · Jul 16, 2015

Cucvrus, I'm wondering why you left the rear brake compensating valve in. In all the vehicles that I came across with this device it was nothing but trouble and did not allow full use of the rear brakes. In my own vehicle the rear brakes had never come on. The brakes where factory new and frozen to the backing plate since they never moved. Totally rusted out too.

cucvrus · Jul 16, 2015

That is a trick question. And you know my answer. Mine always worked and these are working. I like them because I drove the old trucks with out the ABS and the rear wheels would lock up if you hit the brakes hard when empty. This valve prevents that and it is an antiquated anti-lock brake system. I am aware that some do not work. I just replace them if they do not work. I do not by pass them. I am sorry I am not an engineer. It is my job to fix and replace parts not redesign the vehicle. Legally speaking in today's world I could be held liable a lot quicker if I remove something and eliminate it then I would be if I replace and repair something. I am a licensed mechanic and have no experience as a brake engineer. I just replace or repair things. It keeps me out of court and on the job. I have seen guys get burnt for doing less. It is a liability and safety issue that I am not willing to debate. I am being honest it is not worth it in the end. If your rear brakes did not work and you brought it to me for repairs. I would fix it as designed or send you away. My life and another persons could be at risk if I modify brake systems on any vehicles. There are many fancy pants lawyers looking for guys that do these changes. Blame blame and shame.

turnkey · Jul 16, 2015

talk about the real rust bucket...Great work...just jack the old truck and ,put a new one under it ...There all done.

rustystud · Jul 17, 2015

cucvrus said:
That is a trick question. And you know my answer. Mine always worked and these are working. I like them because I drove the old trucks with out the ABS and the rear wheels would lock up if you hit the brakes hard when empty. This valve prevents that and it is an antiquated anti-lock brake system. I am aware that some do not work. I just replace them if they do not work. I do not by pass them. I am sorry I am not an engineer. It is my job to fix and replace parts not redesign the vehicle. Legally speaking in today's world I could be held liable a lot quicker if I remove something and eliminate it then I would be if I replace and repair something. I am a licensed mechanic and have no experience as a brake engineer. I just replace or repair things. It keeps me out of court and on the job. I have seen guys get burnt for doing less. It is a liability and safety issue that I am not willing to debate. I am being honest it is not worth it in the end. If your rear brakes did not work and you brought it to me for repairs. I would fix it as designed or send you away. My life and another persons could be at risk if I modify brake systems on any vehicles. There are many fancy pants lawyers looking for guys that do these changes. Blame blame and shame.

Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers. I too am a licensed "ASE" certified Master Mechanic. Have been for 38 years now. All you had to say was legal reasons and I would understand. But since they did not come on all models of 1 ton trucks you could "legally" remove it.

cucvrus · Jul 17, 2015

No feathers ruffled here on my end. I was just explaining my reason for staying with the design. That type of valve was in use for years on other brand name trucks and the 3/4 ton GM trucks. I still see similar type of valves on some trucks. Not so much anymore with the wheel speed sensors but it is similar.

cucvrus · Jul 18, 2015

Mr Rusty had some of my attention today also. My goal was to get the brakes working and I was successful. Mr Rusty held a lot of surprises. Everyone of them was a deeper dive into the labor pool. But I was happy to find a few new parts that I had been storing for years and was able to use. Also had the opportunity to bend some tubing with my tubing bender and make and change the much dreaded front metal brake lines. I pulled and turned on the front rubber hoses and could not get them to leak of break so I left them intact on the frame. That was not included in my estimate. But if they were bad I would have changed them. I am going to be changing the bump stops on the front frame and putting a heavier set of leaf springs on to support the big Fisher plow that this truck has to lug around all winter. The owner was by yesterday and was pleased with the results thus far. I will get into cab corners and rocker panels next. Thank you for looking and have a nice day. Good luck on your projects. I was washed down in silicone brake fluid for an hour today. You gotta love it or just quit working on them.

cucvrus · Jul 21, 2015

Mr Rusty had his rear drive shaft cleaned, sanded and painted. It was an easy task and I had a lot of OD green spray cans that I wanted to use up.

It has rain beaded on it. The paint was dry when it rained so no harm no foul.

reaper556 · Jul 21, 2015

Looks like its coming along very nice

tennmogger · Jul 21, 2015

This is an outstanding thread showing what can be accomplished if 'easy' is ignored and 'tough' is just tackled and done. More power to you!

cucvrus · Jul 22, 2015

As you may have noticed Mr Rusty was very rusty at the right inner front frame section. Nothing to scare me off. But the bump stop was gone. Lucky I still had a scrap front frame section that I have been cannibalizing for years. I will do some more needle blasting and grinding and treat and c oat this section of the frame also. I replaced the fuel feed lines and the return line. that was the hard start poor run condition with out a doubt. Thank you for looking have a nice day.

cucvrus · Jul 24, 2015

These are a few pictures of the fuel tank brackets that I cleaned up with the needle scaler and the knotted wire wheel. I added $25. Autozone straps and used some seat belt webbing in lieu of the tar paper. I used adhesive caulk to adhere the webbing to the bracket and strap. I have been using seat belts on fuel tank straps

for years. I think it works better and last longer then the tar paper. I also wanted to show the 30 year old fuel strainer. I will gain more power every time I change one of these in a CUCV. More then adding a K & N air filter. I have noticed a power increase on every vehicle after I changed the strainer on and so have customers. I try to do this on every vehicle I have at least once every 10 years.

This little update is less then $30. and is well worth the effort. It is genuine GM AC Delco and available at Autozone. Thank you for looking. Have great day.

rustystud · Jul 25, 2015

Replacing the fuel strainer is a smart idea. Most people forget all about that little filter. With the garbage that is in our fuels these days that filter gets quite the workout.

cucvrus · Jul 25, 2015

Today I started at the stroke of 8. The first thing to go was the left inner fender. I was cleaning it and noticed that it had rust thru. The truth is I replaced this inner fender in September 2010. I know I just put it in and cleaned and painted the battery trays. I did nothing to the inner apron . Just drilled it and installed it. It was one of the first Chikon aprons I ever installed. I had a large stock of GM aprons up until then and you just drilled and installed them and they lasted for years. Be sure to coat these China ones

with undercoating or something before you install them. Lesson learned.I also ventured onto the front spring brackets and the radiator support. After further inspection they will have to go also. Thank you for looking.

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