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HF54 with ram assist

JasonS

Well-known member
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Where did you get that arm and link from ? Also who made that front spring anchor pin for you and where did you buy that hydraulic ram ?
The cylinder is off of a 5-ton. The ball pin is from a 5-ton; turned down and shortened to fit the deuce. A local shop fabricated the steering arm (4140 prehard). The cylinder end is from a Ford tractor. The hoses/ fittings came from NAPA.
 

gringeltaube

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Easier to steer than just the hf54 box upgrade?
At least forces are better distributed, that way.
Also, due to steering geometry it takes more power to turn full right than left, all the way against the knuckle stop screw.



G.
 

PFC Lug Nut

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Hi, I want to do this. I came across a used RossH54 with cylinder assist valve. Looks like the bottom port on the box assembly is pressure in from the pump and the rear port of three on valve [towards box input shaft] is the return port. Is this correct? Thanks, Paul
 

PFC Lug Nut

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I followed the blue lines with braid cover to the bulkhead fittings. Then to the ram. So the top most of the three ports is either return or pressure in. I dont see any markings at the ports on my unit. Thanks, Paul
 

brianp454

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Portland, OR
Hey Paul, I'm working on this too and pretty far along with it. I'd like to get your email to discuss.


Hi, I want to do this. I came across a used RossH54 with cylinder assist valve. Looks like the bottom port on the box assembly is pressure in from the pump and the rear port of three on valve [towards box input shaft] is the return port. Is this correct? Thanks, Paul
 

gringeltaube

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Hi, I want to do this. I came across a used RossH54 with cylinder assist valve. Looks like the bottom port on the box assembly is pressure in from the pump and the rear port of three on valve [towards box input shaft] is the return port. Is this correct?
I followed the blue lines with braid cover to the bulkhead fittings. Then to the ram. So the top most of the three ports is either return or pressure in. I dont see any markings at the ports on my unit.
See it here....
HF54043, 4 ports.jpg
 

gringeltaube

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Thanks, I have been searching for exactly this. Paul
Guess I should have done the same - instead of re-posting my own files...:idea:

See, a lot of info - if not most everything - about the HF54 steering gear (and its variants) has already been posted on SS. So it all depends on how you search.
In this case, the very first thread that pops up when putting "HF54 ports" in the search window is this one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?68586-Bobbed-engine-swap-and-hydo-powersteering
(Post #56 shows what you wanted to know.)
 

PFC Lug Nut

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Thanks again, I Googled it every which way but loose but no luck. My truck is a Mud Truck with a double ended cylinder up front. Hydro assist and I am keeping the tie rod so the set up is tricky.
 

PFC Lug Nut

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Thanks again, I Googled it every which way but loose but no luck. My truck is a Mud Truck with a double ended cylinder up front. Hydro assist and I am keeping the tie rod so the set up is tricky.
Photo of setup . Front axle is f106 hybrid with 5 ton knuckles built to my specs by Gearhart Engineering. Uses 2 1/2 ton hubs modified to take the 5 ton spindle and bearings.
BC4A709D-B139-4E36-AB28-60735F1AFD5F.jpg
 

emeralcove

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Is there a reason the right steering knuckle arm needs to be machined? I may be over simplifying this but could a steering arm for the left side be bolted on the right side and the ball stud removed and a suitable rod end be used to connect it to the 5 ton steering ram?
 

emeralcove

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Thank-you! "Sir gringeltaube", your experience is extremely appreciated. The results of your modifications are most impressive!
When I was in the Army many years ago we had a little saying that kind of explains some of the "less than professional" maintenance seen on some of these 40-50 year vehicles. "Measure with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax and paint to cover up your mistakes; and if it don't run, Chrome it!" Funny but too close to the truth at times. Especially because I worked on army aircraft, not in the motor pool.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Thank-you! "Sir gringeltaube", your experience is extremely appreciated. The results of your modifications are most impressive!
When I was in the Army many years ago we had a little saying that kind of explains some of the "less than professional" maintenance seen on some of these 40-50 year vehicles. "Measure with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax and paint to cover up your mistakes; and if it don't run, Chrome it!" Funny but too close to the truth at times. Especially because I worked on army aircraft, not in the motor pool.
In the Marine Corp, a little duct tape and bailing wire is all you need for 99% of all repairs !
 

emeralcove

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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but the Marines had to do that because it was part of their core training; to make due with nothing so anything was an improvement over what they had to start with, I am sure McGuyver was a Marine.
 
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