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Another one joins ranks of m38a1 ownership

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Well, i did an oil change on the transmission and transfer. They were both waaayyy to low and gunk. Trany wasn't shifting and the teeth are a bit torn up. Finally got it shifting again, lube helped a lot. Started it and it was running fine, coughing because the carb needs new seals. Then a loud screeching and the engine locked up. Starter wouldn't even turn. Waited 45 min and came back and it turns freely again. No dmg see, even checked inspection plate and pulled valve covers. Was wondering if there is anyone around the southern California area, specifically around Murrieta/Temecula area. Could definitely use another eye and hand to tear it apart soon.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Well....****, that's been my day. Tried to start it after it shut it's self down with squealing. Got it to run for about 12 seconds and then it squealed and shut down. Locked last time, but didn't this time. Found out when i rebuilt my carb, the seals were to old and turned to mush, also i rebuilt it wrong. I don't know if i did it or last mech did, the jeep was parked back in the day due to carb issues. The side covers under the bowl, well the were flipped, and you can't do that, no seal to to not sitting correctly. Soo in short the carb leaked like a cive. Fixed it and now its gas tight. Removed all my fenders/windshield/grill, and disconnected everything from the body. Torched the body bolts, and hope to have the body off tomorrow. While i was under the jeep torching spider webs, i found out why the wheels don't turn. Kinda funny and maddening. A huge mass of webs with burnables in it caught fire, they were above exhaust and in front of the transfer case. So while trying to avoid getting burned while underneath and on my back, i saw what the webs light up, it was a cave. Someone had removed the gears inside the transfer and didn't even put the cover back on. Well that explained why i could shift while the engine running, and even put into 4wd and move tire by hand, buy didn't move under it's own power. It was missing the gears to connect the two. Fortunintly my extra frame and and extra transmission, transfer, and if need engine, it also make a GREAT work table.
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Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
I got the body off today. Found some good and some bad surprises. A lot of good body, unfortunately need replace back floor, and the hat channels. The frame has almost no rot, just light rust. Only rot saw was in back bumper, think the inner bar rusted. Defininitly a bent frame. Hoping to be able to re-bend it, or cut the machine gun cross member out and weld in my extra machine gun mount cross member. No cracks in the frame.
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Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Ya, more money. Expected to have new floors, was hoping the hat channel would be just repairs. My neighbor said he could re-bend the frame, got to get him to look at it now that body is off. Still have hope, because no cracks in the frame. Only real surprise was the hat channels being that bad.
 

wilfreeman

Active member
1,082
7
38
Location
Richburg, SC
How the he** do you bend a cross member like that? The hat channels have oak in them. One they start getting water logged it's all over - rust from the inside out. Good thing is that you CAN buy good, US made repros.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Just an update. Well i tried to do an axle swap on my frames, and the u-bolts were rusted solid. Tried everything and no good, had to cut. Went to all the local auto parts store and no one carried a suitable replacement for the U-bolt. In the end i ordered new bolts and shackles, my rubbers were shot. Found out the serial on my extra engine have been filed off, there goes that plan for using it if need. So i started on the body. Cut a lot of rot out of the passenger floor board and started to patch. Unfortunately i found a bit of rot on the inside of the tool box on the upper support, going to have to cut a square out of the floor, repair inside, then re-weld square back in. Found my two new favorite tools, the buttclamp and spot weld remover, both life savers. Now if i could only get my welder to feed correctly, on going fight. 20151201_164939.jpg 20151201_165033.jpg
 

Bravo2Uniform

Member
253
21
18
Location
McMinnville, TN
...the buttclamp and spot weld remover, both life savers. Now if i could only get my welder to feed correctly, on going fight.
I like the butt clamps a lot and also have been using Cleco Clamps, made by the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company. They are similar and serve a similar purpose but require a special tool to insert. Being partially made of copper, they also serve as a heat sink. I got mine from Eastwood's (http://www.eastwood.com/panel-holding-system.html).

The spot weld removers are a life saver for sure. And we must be living parallel lives because my welder is not feeding wire correctly. Either I've got some wire my welder doesn't like or something's out of whack with the feed rollers.

Glad your project is moving along.
 
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Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Taking a break on body work. Took everything off the frame and engine on a stand. Going to trash the frame, looking for another. My 52, found out last guy cut all the shock mounts off and end tips of the back bumper cross-member. I could salvage and mounts off the 64, but that's a bit of work, plus the front mounting bolt. Engine squealed and stooped solid, waited and it turned over again 30 min latter. Ran low rpm, and hear sequel so i shut it off. Few weeks latter, aka yesterday. I finally got it on stand and drained oil. Silver flakes in it :(. Today i took valve cover and head off. There is definitely a LOT of carbon build up, and tons of dirt and rust in the water passages. Turned the balancer bolt, and everything goes smoothly. All the rods seem to go fine and straight, the pistons go up and down with no issue, nothing seems out of wack in the bottom when i looked up. It does get a little tough ever full turn or so, but nothing bad. Did find white oil on top of the nearest two lifters to the fan, both on rocker and down in the cover area. So i know some water got in, also it always spat some oil through muffler when running. No obvious damage in the head gasket. I'm wondering if the problem may be in the bearings, a buddy told me thats the most likely, but that doesn't describe the water. Any input you guys have would be greatly welcomed. The restoration keeps going on, one thing at a time.20160123_152046.jpg20160123_152033.jpg20160123_153108.jpg20160123_152242.jpg20160123_152313.jpg20160123_152350.jpg
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,004
354
83
Location
Dixon CA.
You are really tearing into that thing. Looking good besides the setbacks. Don't forget tower park in April. It's right around the corner.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Realy do want to go to tower park, but low probability. Its a long drive (6 hours 1 way) and i'm broke. Dreading the $ just to buy the rebuild kit engine needs + frame. You going to be there i take it mike ? bringing any goodies ? Hoping to get away with just a block kit and hot bath. Think the engine problems are due to bad bearings, piston rings, rusted/clogged passages. Its funny, with everything stacked and no frame, the whole jeep takes up 5 x 7 feet (and that's EVERYTHING)
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,004
354
83
Location
Dixon CA.
I'll be at tower park for sure. It's worth the trip and I've done it from temecula before so you can too.
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,004
354
83
Location
Dixon CA.
I will be bringing a bunch of truck parts, mostly m35 and 800 series. I will probably bring a Mule project and an M-gator to sell.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Ok, time for an update. Never enough time or money :), that why it's been a while. Well i finally got the frame straightened, and i did all the welding rep it needed, including replacing the whole gun support. Then i sand blasted it ( learned the cost saving of doing it your self is not worth it), and i won't be doing it personaly for the body lol. I also stripped and blasted the axles and drive lines, and all the suspension connectors. Cleaned out the pumpkins, and got flanges to replace the front axle manual lockers, going to restore to original, also replaced all the bad studs. Also i'm doing this because i am lazy, don't want to get out to go int 4w. I epoxy painted all the lines, axles, and frame. Just got in my od paint as well. I have also been working on my body (not my personal one). I have finished replacing all the rusted places (which were a LOT), and rebuild the rear tail lights. I also re-bent the rolled in passenger side panel. Only things left on body is to replace hat channels, and work on the rusty struts that go from floor to dash on each side. Monday i will also be ordering a new rear bumper cross-member, since mines completely rusted out. When i get more money, ill then buy some tires and paint the rims, then get shocks, so i can assemble to a rolling chassis. Have two transmissions, not sure which to use though. One looks great, except some rust in it that fell from shifter because no boot, or the one that came with it, i should replace its's reverse idler gear, all else looks great. Once chassis assemble, have lots of little things like lines that are ready to be installed, can even install transmission and transfer once they are painted. Can't find any pics of the body rep work i did besides the light housing.
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Axles.acleleft hole.jpgax1.jpgax2.jpg
Roll before i straighten, no straight pics.1.jpg20151130_100542.jpg
Kinda crappy pic, but can see new fabrication of brake light housing in back (looks original)20160408_111046.jpg
Next part of body.20160408_173754.jpg
 
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68t

Active member
375
55
28
Location
Michie, ,tn
Looks great, your going all the way with the project, I got a m38a1, basket case . but all looks good, I am trying to get the nerve to start on it.
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Yay, time for an update. Ya, i know i'm not exactly speedy with this. As of today i finally got a rolling chassis. Took alot of time to get this far. First thing i did since last post....BUILD SAWHORSES, and dang are they nice. Forgot how nice it is to have a good pare, they are also my new work table when not in use :mrgreen:. I painted the frame/axles. Sand,grind,chisel,epoxy, primer, painted rims. Got new tire, went newer for safety, comfort, and price :). Got my new shackles on, ran all my brake lines, replaced two slave cylinder, and rebuilt two. Funny, i only found one 1 inch cylinder, had three 3/4 ones. I also got all new brake hardware, just need to buy brake shoes now. I also tore my master cylinder apart and found it too pitted, and some how the top fording cap has a chunk missing out of the lip. New cylinder is all i need to finish my brake system. Was able to use my leaf springs off my parts chassis, just had to clean them and paint them.

Also got all u bolts on, annoying, got shorted 1 bolt on the shipment, and then they sent the wrong size one. Just went to local auto parts store and got a generic. I also completely replace my rear cross member, curtisy of midwest. Tried to hot rivet it, but that was a no go. Ended up cutting them short and welding rivets from the back. Looks great and with a hammer :-D, got the MC bumper over it. Was awfully tight because of the layers of paint. I also got the bumperets installed with pintle, and the axle stops (original round ones were still good :shock:). This weekend I'm going to straighten the front bumper and put it on. Also had to straighten two shock mounts on frame. I also removed my parts chissis engine and axles, so now it stores all together and have more room again.

Basically it need shocks, mc cylinder, rebuild engine, fix fuel tank,finish body up and run the wiring. Of course there will bee a lot of other little odds and ends. I also did have a quart of aircraft paint stripper explode on me and gave me chemical burns on my arms. It was hot day, vented it, and still came out. Debating what to do next, not sure if i want to rebuild my t90. I opened it and it seems ok, the reverse idler gear COULD be replaced. Had no issues shifting it, even with it running. But the seals may be bad under pressure (never drove since the output gear was stolen out of transfer), not sure. Basically i'm getting lazy in that area since it's still together with transfer and both are shinny and nice on the inside. Tempted to just paint it and put it back on. Now let there be pictures !!
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Message_1462584618211.jpgExtra engine
 

Saberr

Active member
185
84
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Up date. All chassis done, new NOS Marine core vented Master cylinder, steering refurbished, horn, rebuild my whole wire harness, new shocks. tore engine down. Found out number 2 piston ring froze and scared crank. Pulled crank and piston rod from spare engine, one in pic. Need new seals, rings, bearings. Front bumper and shackles go on tomorrow. Transmission/transfer on and all drive lines hooked up. Rebuilt whole clutch release system and new throw out bearing spring. Also took lockers off and put original flanges back on.
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wilfreeman

Active member
1,082
7
38
Location
Richburg, SC
WOW! Looks like you are doing an excellent job! I think you are making a lot of progress. Rolling chassis is the majority of the work. Keep up the good work bc you are in the home stretch now!
 
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