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Thread: Another one joins ranks of m38a1 ownership

  1. #21
    4 Star General AZK9's Avatar
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    Looks like a great project! Love the pics!

    Have fun with it!

    =================================================

    << A long trip in an M35A2 is not too bad on the back, butt and bones,
    but the buzzzzzing in the brain is baffling beyond belief !
    >>

  2. #22
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    Well, i did an oil change on the transmission and transfer. They were both waaayyy to low and gunk. Trany wasn't shifting and the teeth are a bit torn up. Finally got it shifting again, lube helped a lot. Started it and it was running fine, coughing because the carb needs new seals. Then a loud screeching and the engine locked up. Starter wouldn't even turn. Waited 45 min and came back and it turns freely again. No dmg see, even checked inspection plate and pulled valve covers. Was wondering if there is anyone around the southern California area, specifically around Murrieta/Temecula area. Could definitely use another eye and hand to tear it apart soon.

  3. #23
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    Well....****, that's been my day. Tried to start it after it shut it's self down with squealing. Got it to run for about 12 seconds and then it squealed and shut down. Locked last time, but didn't this time. Found out when i rebuilt my carb, the seals were to old and turned to mush, also i rebuilt it wrong. I don't know if i did it or last mech did, the jeep was parked back in the day due to carb issues. The side covers under the bowl, well the were flipped, and you can't do that, no seal to to not sitting correctly. Soo in short the carb leaked like a cive. Fixed it and now its gas tight. Removed all my fenders/windshield/grill, and disconnected everything from the body. Torched the body bolts, and hope to have the body off tomorrow. While i was under the jeep torching spider webs, i found out why the wheels don't turn. Kinda funny and maddening. A huge mass of webs with burnables in it caught fire, they were above exhaust and in front of the transfer case. So while trying to avoid getting burned while underneath and on my back, i saw what the webs light up, it was a cave. Someone had removed the gears inside the transfer and didn't even put the cover back on. Well that explained why i could shift while the engine running, and even put into 4wd and move tire by hand, buy didn't move under it's own power. It was missing the gears to connect the two. Fortunintly my extra frame and and extra transmission, transfer, and if need engine, it also make a GREAT work table.
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  4. #24
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    I got the body off today. Found some good and some bad surprises. A lot of good body, unfortunately need replace back floor, and the hat channels. The frame has almost no rot, just light rust. Only rot saw was in back bumper, think the inner bar rusted. Defininitly a bent frame. Hoping to be able to re-bend it, or cut the machine gun cross member out and weld in my extra machine gun mount cross member. No cracks in the frame.
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  5. #25
    Colonel Bravo2Uniform's Avatar
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    Awesome. Great pictures. I love surprises...except in rebuilding a Willys, they are always costly!
    "Ahh, Bach!"

    ďOh, fine then, if nobody does we donít have to, but make sure we do, just in case we donít.Ē - Colonel Henry Blake, R.I.P.


  6. #26
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    Ya, more money. Expected to have new floors, was hoping the hat channel would be just repairs. My neighbor said he could re-bend the frame, got to get him to look at it now that body is off. Still have hope, because no cracks in the frame. Only real surprise was the hat channels being that bad.

  7. #27
    4 Star General wilfreeman's Avatar
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    How the he** do you bend a cross member like that? The hat channels have oak in them. One they start getting water logged it's all over - rust from the inside out. Good thing is that you CAN buy good, US made repros.
    Matt

    KM4JSZ

    Vehicles: 1954 M38a1, 1964 USMC M38a1
    Trailers: 1951 m100 (original), 1954 USMC M100, 1990 M101a2, USMC M762

    http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38A1 Blog)
    http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild)
    http://duecem35a2.wordpress.com (M35a2 Rolling Resto blog)

  8. #28
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    Just an update. Well i tried to do an axle swap on my frames, and the u-bolts were rusted solid. Tried everything and no good, had to cut. Went to all the local auto parts store and no one carried a suitable replacement for the U-bolt. In the end i ordered new bolts and shackles, my rubbers were shot. Found out the serial on my extra engine have been filed off, there goes that plan for using it if need. So i started on the body. Cut a lot of rot out of the passenger floor board and started to patch. Unfortunately i found a bit of rot on the inside of the tool box on the upper support, going to have to cut a square out of the floor, repair inside, then re-weld square back in. Found my two new favorite tools, the buttclamp and spot weld remover, both life savers. Now if i could only get my welder to feed correctly, on going fight. 20151201_164939.jpg 20151201_165033.jpg

  9. #29
    Colonel Bravo2Uniform's Avatar
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    ...the buttclamp and spot weld remover, both life savers. Now if i could only get my welder to feed correctly, on going fight.
    I like the butt clamps a lot and also have been using Cleco Clamps, made by the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company. They are similar and serve a similar purpose but require a special tool to insert. Being partially made of copper, they also serve as a heat sink. I got mine from Eastwood's (http://www.eastwood.com/panel-holding-system.html).

    The spot weld removers are a life saver for sure. And we must be living parallel lives because my welder is not feeding wire correctly. Either I've got some wire my welder doesn't like or something's out of whack with the feed rollers.

    Glad your project is moving along.
    Last edited by Bravo2Uniform; 12-01-2015 at 23:41. Reason: Correct spelling
    "Ahh, Bach!"

    ďOh, fine then, if nobody does we donít have to, but make sure we do, just in case we donít.Ē - Colonel Henry Blake, R.I.P.


  10. #30
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    Taking a break on body work. Took everything off the frame and engine on a stand. Going to trash the frame, looking for another. My 52, found out last guy cut all the shock mounts off and end tips of the back bumper cross-member. I could salvage and mounts off the 64, but that's a bit of work, plus the front mounting bolt. Engine squealed and stooped solid, waited and it turned over again 30 min latter. Ran low rpm, and hear sequel so i shut it off. Few weeks latter, aka yesterday. I finally got it on stand and drained oil. Silver flakes in it . Today i took valve cover and head off. There is definitely a LOT of carbon build up, and tons of dirt and rust in the water passages. Turned the balancer bolt, and everything goes smoothly. All the rods seem to go fine and straight, the pistons go up and down with no issue, nothing seems out of wack in the bottom when i looked up. It does get a little tough ever full turn or so, but nothing bad. Did find white oil on top of the nearest two lifters to the fan, both on rocker and down in the cover area. So i know some water got in, also it always spat some oil through muffler when running. No obvious damage in the head gasket. I'm wondering if the problem may be in the bearings, a buddy told me thats the most likely, but that doesn't describe the water. Any input you guys have would be greatly welcomed. The restoration keeps going on, one thing at a time.20160123_152046.jpg20160123_152033.jpg20160123_153108.jpg20160123_152242.jpg20160123_152313.jpg20160123_152350.jpg

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