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Thread: How to remove the Fuel Shutoff Rod on the IP

  1. #1
    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by welldigger View Post
    Was your truck running before the fuel shut off stuck? As far as removing the rod its pretty simple. When you remove the shut off cover you will see the arm attached to the fuel control rod. There should be a bridge piece with 2 screws and safety wire going through the screws. On the bottom of the arm there is a tiny Jesus clip that attaches that arm to a rod that goes inward and to the back of the pump. To remove the rod simply pull the Jesus clip, don't lose it, and then cut the safety wire and remove the 2 screws. Very carefully pull the control rod strait out. The reason I say carefully is there is a little "tit" on the very end of the rod that can slide out and fall into the pump. Make sure this tiny piece is still there. The o ring will be around the rod.
    Steps to follow.

    1 - Disconnect batteries
    2 - Remove side cover from IP
    3 - Remove "Jesus" clip from fuel control rod - Do Not loose
    4 - Disengage the fuel control rod
    5 - Cut and remove safety wire
    6 - Remove two screws and metal bridge
    7 - Carefully pry out the shutoff rod - DO NOT loose the plunger sleeve pin (tit) at the end of the rod
    8 - No need to remove nut and the lever from the rod unless it is also gummed up. If you do remove it make sure you scribe a mark so you can reinstall properly
    9 - Clean all the gunk of the rod. Carb cleaner works well. Also so steel wool or emery cloth. Do not remove any metal.
    10 - Use the carb cleaner to clean the opening and the plunger sleeve - you may need a mirror and flashlight to see it

    fuel rod 2.gifplunger sleeve.jpg

    While you are at it you might as well replace the o-ring. It is a #13 and available at most hardware stores.

    This next step is the hardest.

    11 - Reinstall the shutoff rod. You have to make sure the "tit" engages the the plunger sleeve. It may take 2 or more tries. One way to do it is to make sure the sleeve is all the way down and you are holding the lever in the proper orientation so the pin is also towards the bottom. It is mainly a "feel" install.

    Rotate the fuel arm and see if it stops moving. The range should be from 7-8 o'clock to 4-5 o'clock. If it has more than that the pin has not engaged the sleeve correctly.
    plunger sleeve Fuel Rod (1).jpg

    12- Reinstall the two screws and bridge.
    13- Reinstall the safety wire. Most people do. Some do not
    14 - Reinstall the control rod
    15 - Reinstall the "Jesus" clip
    16 - Reinstall the side cover (you may want to do this last so you can check the operation of the rod)
    17 - Reconnect batteries
    18 - Remove the air intake mushroom cover. While you have someone standing by the air intake with a board, start the engine. If it runs away have soldier B cover the intake with the board. Rehearse this in advance so no one is suprised
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Warthog; 11-18-2015 at 15:26.
    Don't worry about the size difference

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    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    Sometimes they get crud in there and you might have to take it apart to clean it up. You might be able to see in the second pic the rust I had to clean up.

    If you need to disassemble the rod for cleaning make sure you scribe the pieces before disassemble. Also take a lot of pictures. The pieces have to go back together the same way or the IP will not function properly
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Warthog; 08-21-2015 at 07:50.
    Don't worry about the size difference

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    With so many people having sticking fuel shutoff rods I created this sticky from Welldigger and Gimpys post. I also listed the steps in numerical order. Thanks Gimp for posting the pictures over and over.

    Now just refer people to the sticky.
    "We are all born ignorant.....but one must work hard to remain stupid" - Benjamin Franklin

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    Just to add a side note.

    When you go to put the fuel control rod back into the head since the control collar (plunger sleeve) is down, the fuel control assembly linkage arm is going to look like it is around the 4 to 5 o'clock position or real close to the shut off position.

    So hold the control assembly arm close to that position and adjust the pin to the horizontal position and it should slide in. Might have to move the fuel arm just a little but it will go in.
    Last edited by Warthog; 11-18-2015 at 15:21.
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    dumpsterlandingfromorbit! gimpyrobb's Avatar
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    Adding a link to the part numbers!

    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...-button-on-rod
    Don't worry about the size difference

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    Barring bad weather this weekend, I'm attempting this procedure this weekend. I have gotten my fuel shut off more loose but not floppy? Question----if I remove the shut-off with the arm in the 6oclock position, will something attached to the plunger automatically spring the plunger? to another position?

    Also, should the assembly be lubed with anything before re-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

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    The plunger (when it is not sticking) will fall to the bottom. This requires the rod to be reinserted with the arm in the 4-5 o'clock position. This allows the pin to engage the plunger.

    A little oil on the o-ring is all that is needed. The rest will be self lubricated when the engine is running.
    Last edited by Warthog; 11-18-2015 at 15:21.
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    Finally got an afternoon off of work without the in-laws finding out

    Snipped the safety wire, slid everything out in tact, drowned the assembly with Kroyl then carb cleaner,Kroyl then carb cleaner over and over. Smooth as silk

    Now that I have it in my hands in front of my eyes? It's simple. I get it.

    Note to others, If you are using the tit or plunger to force lubricant through the assembly, keep your finger firmly over the tit. It will eject out of your control and land at least a foot away from where it should

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    Quote Originally Posted by gimpyrobb View Post
    Sometimes they get crud in there and you might have to take it apart to clean it up. You might be able to see in the second pic the rust I had to clean up.

    If you need to disassemble the rod for cleaning make sure you scribe the pieces before disassemble. Also take a lot of pictures. The pieces have to go back together the same way or the IP will not function properly
    This is what I ran into before on my 87 M35. it worked out. This not so lucky.

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    I removed the fuel rod cover today to re-safety wire the bridge screws after having to clean the shut off. It seems I have some diesel fuel behind that cover when I pulled it this time. I am pretty sure that is not supposed to be there (?) I just read the thread about the HH rebuild and it was mentioned that a leaking oring in this area can fill the crank with diesel. Maybe I need to service my HH?

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