Terminus M1009

Never bored

Nobody is boring to watch this nice project !

Terminus m1009

The scenes you are looking at are real. This is what most M1009 rear gates look like inside. This is one of the reasons that they rust so badly. This also had expandable foam sprayed in the hole to fill it for PA state inspection. The foam was soaked and probably never dried. Off with the gate. I did not want to turn this into a restoration so I won't. I am making it fit and functional and getting rid of that ugly hole that has body filler tape and insulation hanging from it. It is an ugly day out. I could not paint so I played with Terminus M1009.

I stripped the gate out till it was just the shell with the latches still in it. Everything else I removed with the help of the torch to remove the rusted 1/4" bolts from the torsion rods.I spent a considerable amount of time grinding and digging out the puss on this gate. it was a definite infection to the bone. I needed to get the core of the infection out and do a transplant. I think this gate is savable. I dug out a few strips of 12 gauge galvaneal and prepped the gate for surgery. The inner structure was completely rotted from the lower section of the gate. I cut and bent a piece of 12 gauge and slide it inside the gate to attach the rusted support to the lower gate. After I installed that you could feel the gate was getting some strength back again. Not completely but twice as strong as it was. They had been operating it with broken support cables for a long time. I was amazed that the bottom of the gate was in as good of shape as it was. i used a small sand blaster gun and cleaned the inside if the gate and primed it with rust inhibitor. I was able to rivet the inner support fast to the new piece and use the urethane adhesive to attach everything inside the gate.I flipped the gate and sanded, ground and wire wheeled the entire lower jam area. Only the right bottom corner was gone but not completely. I made a piece and will install that piece tomorrow after church. I taped it all up and primed the inside jam after I had it clean enough to suit me. I must lower my standards 1% on this build.

After priming the inside I flipped the gate and primed the outside. I then fastened the 12 gauge filler panel that I cut and clamped it in place. i used the urethane adhesive and used it sparingly. I will use a razor blade to trim any that squeezes out of the edges and then to a nice finish bead on the entire edge top and bottom. We glue body panels on vehicles with this adhesive and it saves the weld work. Makes it as an example for those that don't have a welder. Tomorrow that will be dry and I can work on the top window opening area. Of course that is cracked. The pictures below show the window and the sash. i could not help myself I had to sand and paint the sash and the window tracks. they are going to work perfect. I put them on the sides of the glass and they go up and down smooth on the glass. i had to tweak the sash a bit on the guides it was twisted some. Tomorrow is another day. My son said if I remove that gate and fix it he will not help. God i am going to miss him. . He came down and helped me anyway. He wants to ride in it at Rausch creek in 2 weeks. I hope we get some nice weather so we can repaint it. Thanks for looking. I hope I am giving you or someone some helpful hints. I am thinking about rebuilding M1009 gates and then selling them and taking in cores. Would that work?

Looking good. I know it is hard to lower standards one thing always leads to another, plus side is you probably go a little farther/longer with that extra 1% fix though

now I am scared of looking into my tailgate. will do that soon, hope I find more funny stuff (like the black&yellow goo in my master brake cylinder (someone used Dot4 to fill up....) or the silikone pieces in my transmission (someone decided a proper gasket might be too expensive.....oh and I think the last time my rear differential was open for Service ..well I think it was never open since they put it together back in 85´...

you just cant get bored when you have a CUCV to work on^^

I went down to the garage this morning bright and early and re-position some of the clamps and done some edge caulking on the panel I added to the lower gate. Not a perfect repair but it is a budget repair and it added great strength to the gate. I will have to let it sit today till the adhesive drys. The adhesive is still wet in the center of the panel. When I removed a clamp I seen the panel rise away from the gate some so I reapplied the pressure again. I have plenty to do as long as the rain has stopped. I want to get the doorways and fenders coated and painted inside to install on Mr Rusty. Moving right along. I have been taking to long on this project. No pictures. I figured adhesive drying has a picture all of it's own. Imagine that.

The coolant overflow bottle lower support was rusted off and just laying in the bottom of the radiator support. I ran the bolts out and installed a new one and replaced the bolts with the Torx 40 bolts. My Son helped me today we wired Terminus m1009 for towing on the tow-bar. We could not get the brake and turn to work by tapping into the front turn wiring. I know there must be a splitter but we just added an extra set of LED lamps to the area where the rear B/O markers were. The original tail-lamps on Terminus will serve as the park lamps and the add on lights will be the brake and turn lamps.

Nicest B/O drive lamp I have seen in a while. Terminus M1009 had a broken fuel cap. I had a replacement one. It had a usable chain and upper cap part if anyone needs it. If not I will recycle it.Take a look at the fuel fill cover that they fabricated. Does it look familiar?

We removed the grille and did repairs on the light wiring that was hacked up from the snow plow installation. NO LED's for Terminus M1009. I could not find my H4 headlamps but I did have a new set of Halogen headlamps. I painted the trim rings on the headlamps. They were chrome. What did you want me to do? We are putting a trailer plug on the brush guard and making an extension that plugs into it. Thanks for looking. I removed the cluster and repaired the dash lights. That is all that did not work. But the low coolant light stays on all the time and the coolant is full. Any ideas how to fix that issue? I replaced the fan switch. replaced the sun-visor screws and cleaned the glove box out. Man this this is dirty inside. If I am going to spend a day in it it will be clean not a hog pen.

cucvrus said:

Terminus M1009 had a broken fuel cap. I had a replacement one. View attachment 585952View attachment 585951View attachment 585950Take a look at the fuel fill cover that they fabricated. Does it look familiar?

Click to expand...

I have holes in the rear of my 1009 in the exact same spots as in the two pictures. How do you normally handle those as I'm sure they are consistent.

Are you talking the holes in the floor area at the rear? I am going to put a pice of 14" tread plate across the rear floor area of mine and steel angles on the rear corner posts. That should hold off the rust for a while. I know it will add strength to the lower original panels and rust areas. But I will coat it and do what I can to slow the rusts progression. Near impossible as the cancer has started. But I will no as much as I am able.I have something like this in mind to add strength and give the rear body some support for severe off road use. Last time I was off road and hit a few good bumps my gate was sprung and the rear threshold was bent. To much weight on the right rear corner with the pare tire and chain bag stuffed in there. that is my opinion on the cause. That and the class 3 receiver that hit everything on the trail. I like wheeling it stock. It is more fun that way. I used to have a 1942 GPW and wheeled that thing with the original stock configuration. That thing went anywhere. That twas back when they were a dime a dozen. Remember when I say anywhere. i mean with in reason.

Roger that. I just don't have any welding skills so I was asking before I have someone take care of it and my rocker panels which are rotten. Do you make those braces yourself? I've seen them on a couple of your builds.

You don't need to have a welder. If that is your M1009 in the pictures it should just have replacements cut and glued onto the original ones. It is not quite that easy. But I do help people out over the years that are on tight budget restraints. They get by that way with any type of vehicle. Just cut out the rusty area treat the area and dress it as nice as you can and glue and screw the replacement cover panel on and you have a repair. Paint it to your liking. If the screws/rivets bother you remove them after the adhesive dries. Not quite that easy but you get the point.

Not to hijack your thread but I saw this and thought it might be of some use. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...anel-no-welding-install&p=1776571#post1776571

Remove if you feel necessary.

Thanks, it really defines what Rick meant about "glue it up" for me at least. I like that thread and would love to see it as a sticky. Rick, how about them cross braces?

Cross braces are very heavy duty. They are steel galvanized and i will be welding/ bolting them to the treadplate floor threshold. I have a cover for the fuel fill also. I just bought 4 new shock absorbers for Terminus M1009. The front ones are toasted. I bought 4 Gabriel Pro Guards For less then $100. US. Lifetime warranted. Can't beat that price. Now I need to get under that thing and fit the bolts with the impact. I have been wearing ear plugs because I just had an ear infection and the Dr. took a piece of rust out of my inner ear canal. Very painful. I could feel it in my neck. It may have been a hot spark of steel. I almost always wear ear plugs when I torch for just that reason. This truck drop particles everytime I close the door. I found out it spent the last 5 years as a broken glass plower truck at a recycling center. As well as plowing snow. The cross members were full of broken colored glass. Now I will just 4 wheel it. Thanks for looking. I hope the glueing of panels works for you. It should just take your time and measure twice and cut once. Be precise no hack jobs.

Thanks very much for the information; I always cut too big and trim downward if needed. Looking on the other thread, I have a dang good idea on how to proceed with rocker panels and those two rear holes. Have you ever thought of using PVC pipe for a gas filler cover? I hate paying LMC for something like that. You bring new comedic value to "keep the ear to the grind stone" don't you? (I know it's nose - but considering you are pulling rust out of the ear...) Do you make those cross braces or buy them somewhere?

I found them on a scrap pile. I found the big ones first. Then a couple days later i found the small ones. The small ones do not reach the frame rails so I am going to just use both the big ones and just add the small ones for aesthetics.