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M35A2 Reusable... Primary Fuel Filter...?

saddamsnightmare

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October 30th, 2015.


"Hold on to yer Lugnuts!" Jim Carrey in "The Mask".


Lugnuts too tight for you? Consider using ATF fluid (Automatic Transmission Fluid)on the nuts, and a gear reduction ratchet unit with the planetary drive. The planetary drive has one leg that hits the ground, fit your lugnut socket (usally 3/4 or 1" required to the output end, and use your 3/4 or 1" ratchet or breaker bar on the input end. Either the nuts move or they break, but remember one side of the deuce is right hand and the other side on the wheel studs is left hand threads.:grin:
It's Easy Peasy, nice and Easy!
 

AZK9

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.. I hear you about those 40 year old connections! I've had to employ the 'Heat and Rapid Cool' technique to get a lot of these
nuts and bolts to come free. Still... I've got three wheels of lug nuts I just can't remove no matter what I've tried! ...
:oops: I actually should have written something like:

I've got lug nuts, on three different wheels that I have not yet been able to remove.
(Two are nuts on "R" lugs and four are marked "L".)



BTW... Does the ATF work any better than spray products like PB Blaster?
 

Floridianson

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Totally agree Garrett. The old can style filters allow a lot of crud to escape past them.
Do you feel it is the can or the filters. I have seen rusty cans and I clean them up with acid after removing all the oil that keeps the acid from cleaning the metal.
I have had no problem with the cans as of yet and like the idea of a step down filter system. If you had all the same # micron filters in line I believe the first filter would clog first and performance would suffer leaving the other filters clean. From what I have seen the organic matter is the worst, then the water. With a 14 to 10 to 6 micron step down and clean tank/clean fuel and canisters there should be no problems for years of running as much miles as I drive.
 

Jeepsinker

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Do you feel it is the can or the filters. I have seen rusty cans and I clean them up with acid after removing all the oil that keeps the acid from cleaning the metal.
I have had no problem with the cans as of yet and like the idea of a step down filter system. If you had all the same # micron filters in line I believe the first filter would clog first and performance would suffer leaving the other filters clean. From what I have seen the organic matter is the worst, then the water. With a 14 to 10 to 6 micron step down and clean tank/clean fuel and canisters there should be no problems for years of running as much miles as I drive.
James, it is the cans. Having spring loaded filters and no kind of sealing element between the contact surfaces is just plain stupid. I've put a lot of miles on my truck and I can say for a fact that a lot of crud gets past them. I've gone over to spin on filters now, with a 10 micron primary, 5 micron secondary, and 2 micron final. Haven't had to change a filter yet since I switched to the aluminum A3 tank.
 

Jeepsinker

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Right. Besides, the lowest micron rating you can get for the canisters is a 6 micron, and it only takes a 5 micron particle to damage the pump. Ambac originally called for a 3 micron filter to protect these pumps, so of course the military settled for 10 micron finals... that's fine if you have unlimited funds to buy and replace injector pumps.
 

Floridianson

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I know a lot of filters I have checked have had the canister parts put together wrong and some did not even having the #8 packing preform washer put back in. This washer or if there is not one I use a Oring instead to seal up the gap between the shaft and the cup washer #7.
Two microns is getting pretty tight. Wonder if it cuts down on the pressure at the head?
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00100
 

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Jeepsinker

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Right, but you still pull fuel around it at the top, and through the small space between the threaded shaft and the cup washer. And there isn't a good way to seal the top surface because the top metal lip of the filter is perforated, has a bunch of holes in it for some reason.
 

Jeepsinker

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Pull the 1" hex fitting off the forward facing surface of your boost pump and see how much trash comes out. You'd be surprised how much gets around the primary and gets caught up in the boost pump.
 

rolling18

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Portland, OR
You can convert the primary to spin on with a $27 napa filter base and a $13 filter. My primary is a 10 micron filter with water drain. If you buy from fleetfilter.com, you get napa filters and bases at about half the in store cost.
do you have a part number for the filter mount for ALL the filter bases and filters?
thanks!!!
 

NY Tom

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Would also like to know the part numbers for the bases and filters you would use to convert this. Make life a lot easier and sounds pretty inexpensive.
 

Jeepsinker

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Dry Creek, Louisiana
There are two filter bases Napa offers. One is a 1"-12 thread, one is a 1"-14 thread.
I use the 1"-12 base for my primary with a 3418 filter. I cannot recall the number for that base right now.

My secondary filters are 1"-14 thread. Filter base is a 4770, secondary filter is a 3406 and final is a 3422.

I may have those last two transposed. I'm not at home to look at my truck. One is a 5 micron, one is a two micron.
 

NY Tom

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I understand now. From reading the previous posts it seemed to me that the "Bases" would somehow thread into the existing original filter setup and "Adapt" them for use with modern spin-on filters.

If I am understanding correctly these bases are use to replace the originals. If I am still wrong please wake me up somehow!
 

rustystud

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I understand now. From reading the previous posts it seemed to me that the "Bases" would somehow thread into the existing original filter setup and "Adapt" them for use with modern spin-on filters.

If I am understanding correctly these bases are use to replace the originals. If I am still wrong please wake me up somehow!
You would need to "Buy" the adapter from someone here on Steel Soldiers who actually makes them. No aftermarket NAPA or anyone else makes them for the deuce. That or make your own like I and many others did.
Actually at this time I'm having a machine shop make up a prototype fuel filter mounting system. One that will go in the original spot on the engine and the fuel lines will be in the same position too. If it works out OK I'll post my results and you could then contact them and have them make you one also.
 
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NY Tom

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Sounds good Rusty thanks for the information. Perhaps by the time I need to change the filters again the new setup will be available.
 
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