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Thread: Dual fuel tank install

  1. #41
    Sergeant Major emeralcove's Avatar
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    You replied; "I put that back on post 21. Both diagrams, one electrical and the other the plumbing."
    Somehow I only saw the electrical drawing, thanks for clarification.

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    4 Star General rmgill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustystud View Post
    Since each tank has a pump, when one is in operation it forces the other tanks one-way check valve closed. There is no way any fuel is coming out of the non-used line.

    I'm thinking about the issue of drawing fuel from the non-selected tank. I guess if you were to suffer an in tank failure (fuse blows) you could pull fuel from both tanks and possibly over fill the one tank. Just thinking through failure modes here.
    Ryan Gill
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    Colonel army_nurse's Avatar
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    These are the kind of threads that help so much when considering my deuce projects. Thanks for all the great input. Not being mean but it saves me hours of screw up and wrench throwing episodes. Keep on keeping on>>>>>>>>>>>
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  5. #44
    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmgill View Post
    I'm thinking about the issue of drawing fuel from the non-selected tank. I guess if you were to suffer an in tank failure (fuse blows) you could pull fuel from both tanks and possibly over fill the one tank. Just thinking through failure modes here.
    Actually if a fuse blew in this system your fuel would shut-off. There is too much friction and to much pressure on the one-way valves for the small boost pump to overcome since it was never designed to "suck" the fuel. It takes about 2psi to overcome those valves.

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  7. #45
    General Hard Head's Avatar
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    Question! I have a backup tank in the bed of my 5 ton. Currently I manually transfer via a pump with nozzle on that tank. I am thinking about using electric ball valves and putting a tee into the current fuel line from the main tank where the line connects to the first fuel water separator filter. Wiring would be simple as I could tie both to the same switch since they work the exact opposite of one another. I would use one N.O. (main tank) and one N.C. (second tank) valve. I purchased a 2 stage solenoid (N.O.) for my electric primer system that I recently installed to replace the check valve in that piping as it didn't work well at all with the IP pulling fuel thru the check valve between the 2 filters. The solenoid works but I found the motorized ball valves after the fact . Has anyone used the motorized ball valves and do you think that a simple tee and 2 of these valves are enough for connecting the tanks to the first fuel water separator.

  8. #46
    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hard Head View Post
    Question! I have a backup tank in the bed of my 5 ton. Currently I manually transfer via a pump with nozzle on that tank. I am thinking about using electric ball valves and putting a tee into the current fuel line from the main tank where the line connects to the first fuel water separator filter. Wiring would be simple as I could tie both to the same switch since they work the exact opposite of one another. I would use one N.O. (main tank) and one N.C. (second tank) valve. I purchased a 2 stage solenoid (N.O.) for my electric primer system that I recently installed to replace the check valve in that piping as it didn't work well at all with the IP pulling fuel thru the check valve between the 2 filters. The solenoid works but I found the motorized ball valves after the fact . Has anyone used the motorized ball valves and do you think that a simple tee and 2 of these valves are enough for connecting the tanks to the first fuel water separator.
    Sounds good but you need to take into account the fuel return from the injection pump. It needs to go back to the correct tank. How are you planning on doing this ?

  9. #47
    4 Star General rmgill's Avatar
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    My Dual Tank system uses a 2 position switch to control the left and right fuel tank pumps. (Really a single pole switch energizing a relay that powers the left tank defaulting to the right tank when not energized). Flow is controlled by a doubled 3 port valve (from an 809 series 5 ton tractor) to provide draw from the left or right tank and return to the same. Excepting for an instance where one of my hoses for the valve connection became crimped due to a too tight bend, it's all worked perfectly.
    Ryan Gill
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  10. #48
    4 Star General rmgill's Avatar
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    Ryan Gill
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  11. #49
    General Hard Head's Avatar
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    Hi Rusty. I am glad you asked since I forgot to do this. My Bad!!! I will add a 3 way ball valve and tie it to the main / aux tank switch so it syncs with the tank.

    Thanks!!

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  13. #50
    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmgill View Post
    Ryan, most all your pictures are unavailable to view. You need to post them here. I cannot tell how you did your system from your description alone. Did you use a manual valve ?

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