How to turn up fuel on a M35A2?

Sorry my searching skills are not great. I have been looking for a tread on turning up the fuel on my M35A2 Deuce but with no luck. The one I found did not work. If anyone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it!!

PS...I have already installed a pyrometer I don't want to mess up engine up.

Here is a thread, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26768-How-to-turn-up-fuel-on-M35a2

Mwmules thanks for the link but that is the one I found and the link inside that thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...justment+screw did not work for me and of coarse that bad link is the thread that I need to read

I found this one with the Deuce Forum stickies:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?53010-how-to-turn-up-fuel-in-pictures

It isn't just a one screw adjustment either. You should also adjust the smoke cam after you adjust main fuel. The smoke cam has more effect on the higher rpm boost.

Jeepsinker said:

It isn't just a one screw adjustment either. You should also adjust the smoke cam after you adjust main fuel. The smoke cam has more effect on the higher rpm boost.

Click to expand...

AKA, droop screw/ droopscrew. Search term for TM and forums.

I think he should leave the smoke cam alone in less he does not have a droop screw. The main fuel ( twin nuts ) control everything top and bottom end. The droop controls around 1600 to 2100 rpm. In most cases if we raise the main we have to lower the droop as there will be to much waist of fuel on the lower side or to much smoke. Since he has a pyro he can tune to the high side and see how much smoke he is making till the rpm come up. A boost gage would be helpful in that case so we can lower or raise the droop. The IP's that don't have a droop is when we play with the smoke cam. The correct adjustments should get a half a truck size puff of black smoke and start clearing as the rpm raise till she is running pretty clear on a flat. Now when you hit a load/ hill the smoke will start rolling and you have to watch the pyro or adjust to your terrain. 5 pound of boost at the low end maybe 15 tops but you are close to a lot of heat when the load/ hill comes up at that amount of boost.

Holy cow
You guys are good!

All the IP's have a smoke cam adjustment but not all have the droop screw. The droop was added I believe so minor adjustments could be made to the lower rpm range without having to take off the FDC. Most of the time if you raise the main fuel ( twin nut) you will lower the droop setting as you are just pushing out unburnt fuel as the turbo is not spooled up and the rpm down. You might be able to get 5 lbs. of boost at the lower end. Here after we do the main we could adjust the droop to lite smoke till the rpm is almost all the way up and then the adjustment made to the main fuel will be our power.
Canwait you need to bypass your FDC if not already and if so then move on to the main and droop if needed.
The smoke cam is very touchy and one notch is a big jump.

That's interesting. On the 87' m35A2C that I got for my Dad, we turned up the main fuel a lot trying to get over the 5 pounds of boost we were getting ( C turbo), and we were only able to surpass that and get up to 14 psi by adjusting the smoke cam, at which point we turned the main fuel back down. When he got it up to Colorado he had to turn it back down some more ( less air up there obviously ).

I hate to add confusion to a simple thread, but that is and has been my experience with all of these trucks so far.

I made the video below for adjusting my M35A2 injection pump. I didn't have to adjust anything else. Make sure you have a boost gauge and an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT aka pyrometer) so you don't melt a piston. It ran awesome! I sold the engine/transmission and now I run a Cummins 6BT.

https://youtu.be/XChF3rMT348

Thank yall for the information this should be what I need! I will let yall know how it goes.

You can get 14 to 15 with the main and the smoke cam left alone. Believe they just tried to clean up the exhaust at idle to try and meet the EPA emissions. That is why I do the main and if I have two much smoke on take off I back the fuel on the droop screw setting clockwise. If we go counter clockwise we add more fuel but get more emissions and waist fuel.
The fuel leaver with the smoke cam and sometimes the droop screw runs on the wedge plate and the wedge plate is controlled by the main fuel adjustment. Now on Hank'sDeuce he does not have a FDC and one wedge plate. When we have a FDC we have two wedge plates. The FDC controls one and the main fuel (twin nut) controls the other. Same thing main controls both but when we have a working FDC we have adjustable fuel control and no main fuel adjustment needed for different fuels. That is why when we bypass the FDC is goes to it's highest setting on it's wedge and we get a little more fuel added. Sometimes the main can be left alone. Sometimes we have to back it down after FDC bypass as it is to much and if you don't want to waist fuel we do the droop. Not all trucks are alike in the way they run or have been adjusted. Every truck needs the FDC bypassed and adjusted up or down to get to that happy place where the temps are where you want them. I have stood the smoke cam straight up and droop backed off. Turned the main up till the inner nut jammed and could not go any farther. The performance was incredible but the smoke rolled out on take off and never quit. I could smoke out 15 city blocks and the temps came up faster than you could even think. Yes I ran it all back to specs so as not to pop the motor but she held for the test.

A truck running on a flat will not show much boost so you have to have lots of drag. It can be done with the brakes or tie four old dead Blue Whale's together and try and drag them around the yard. This should be enough drag if not add more Whales.

Floridianson said:

A truck running on a flat will not show much boost so you have to have lots of drag. It can be done with the brakes or tie four old dead Blue Whale's together and try and drag them around the yard. This should be enough drag if not add more Whales.

Click to expand...

lol... Now there's an image. I don't know what the neighbors would think of that one

We have to get our whale oil to run the trucks from somewhere.

Think how far we could from just one whale! I have adjusted my fuel just by two flats and it is running great. Great power little to no smoke and my EGT temp is under control....so far so good! Thanks again for the info.

Floridianson said:

A truck running on a flat will not show much boost so you have to have lots of drag. It can be done with the brakes or tie four old dead Blue Whale's together and try and drag them around the yard. This should be enough drag if not add more Whales.

Click to expand...

No blues here is it ok to use whites instead?

nk14zp said:

No blues here is it ok to use whites instead?

Click to expand...

Yep.. I was just trying to say that just driving is not a good test even going to a hill and running up it. To check boost the best way seems to be hold the motor at the given RPM while it is under a load and full throttle. A dyno would be great but even the 465 lds trouble shooting manual shows how to hold the brakes at a given rpm and check the boost figures. Then it would seem we could fine tune with the pyro to your altitude and terrain.