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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Gear Report

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Nc
Testing various different ways to put radios, camera monitor, intercom, switches, cup holders, etc on the BFT console.IMG_20181109_091814.jpgIMG_20181109_093002.jpgIMG_20181109_093145.jpgIMG_20181109_093459.jpgIMG_20181109_094712.jpgIMG_20181109_095749.jpg
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
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Just took a ride with a unicorn ��
View attachment 747659
Between the explosives sign and the pink unicorn are you sure you're not a member of the Suicide Squad?
Oh man... I've got some serious unicorns hanging around the house. I'm going to have to try out this equestrian modification.

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
I am reminded of the UNICORN SONG...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EPsuOEH1fY
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
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Bainbridge Island Wa
X-Door rivet replacement project.
All four doors have some or all of the window frame rivets loose.

Using 3/16” 1/2” long structural rivets from Fastenal.

Rhino-liner is a real PITA to remove for such service.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bulldogger

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Quantico VA
Finally installed a new fire extinguisher mounting bracket yesterday. Nice that the FX will stay put, as compared to before when I had it lashed in poorly with para cord...

Also installed a Mk3 soft slant back design experimental version. I like it so far.

Gave her a wipe down with WD40, which I know will send some purists into dry heaves, so I won't post pictures. I just wanted the paint to look a little less faded. It will wear off long before I can get to repainting.

Bulldogger
 

shawnshumvee

Member
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Location
Janesville WI
Well, i planned on swapping out my custom Ignition light from a Red to a green one (because it would have just look better) and that's when my issue happened. Last January i installed my own custom keyed kill switch as an alternative to the keyed ignition switches sold on eBay and elsewhere, as those type were not appealing to me for a few reasons, nevertheless, the idea worked perfect never had an issue. The way that it was designed is, if you would turn the key a red light would light up indicating that the humvee is activated (in other words.. completing the electrical circuit) and then you would continue to start the humvee as you would normally. The keyed kill switch was basically killing the voltage to the start switch. Once the key was inserted and turned this would complete the circuit thus allowing the Humvee to be started in the normal fashion and i added a light to the whole project and it was working great, but at the time i installed the custom switch i only had red lights in my shop so i used one. well every light on my dash cluster is green so it bugged me and i wanted to swap out the red light for a green one so i bought one and went to go pull the red light out and when i did i guess one of the metal connectors on the back came off and started arking and some smoke came out from behind the dash and now the whole truck is dead. It's like there isn't any batteries in it, nothing is working NOTHING! i don't even see any melted wires or anything. like a dummy i thought i could just swap the lights, kind of like a plug and play method boy was i wrong, i should have just unhooked the batteries like i normal wound have done. is there any in-line fuses? Any help would be SOOOOOO greatfull!
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Well, i planned on swapping out my custom Ignition light from a Red to a green one (because it would have just look better) and that's when my issue happened. Last January i installed my own custom keyed kill switch as an alternative to the keyed ignition switches sold on eBay and elsewhere, as those type were not appealing to me for a few reasons, nevertheless, the idea worked perfect never had an issue. The way that it was designed is, if you would turn the key a red light would light up indicating that the humvee is activated (in other words.. completing the electrical circuit) and then you would continue to start the humvee as you would normally. The keyed kill switch was basically killing the voltage to the start switch. Once the key was inserted and turned this would complete the circuit thus allowing the Humvee to be started in the normal fashion and i added a light to the whole project and it was working great, but at the time i installed the custom switch i only had red lights in my shop so i used one. well every light on my dash cluster is green so it bugged me and i wanted to swap out the red light for a green one so i bought one and went to go pull the red light out and when i did i guess one of the metal connectors on the back came off and started arking and some smoke came out from behind the dash and now the whole truck is dead. It's like there isn't any batteries in it, nothing is working NOTHING! i don't even see any melted wires or anything. like a dummy i thought i could just swap the lights, kind of like a plug and play method boy was i wrong, i should have just unhooked the batteries like i normal wound have done. is there any in-line fuses? Any help would be SOOOOOO greatfull!
Was your PCB damaged? That will kill a HMMWV that was not battery disconnected prior to electric work.

MHO
 
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shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
Was your PCB damaged? That will kill a HMMWV that w not battery disconnected prior to electric work.


MHO


Don't know if the PCB was damaged? I Hope not i have the nicer one too, or so i was told? The hot wire from the light i installed (should have wrap the connectors with tap) touched the metal dash for a second ( or so it seemed?) and something started smoking? And the truck is dead, stone dead! I'm currently testing wires. one more thing this truck has not been running fro a few days and i went and touched the alternator and it seemed rather worm? Not worm like it was just running but clearly warmer than andy other part on the cold engine. I scouring through the TM's as i type this (The TM isn't to user friendly in my opinion), so if you can give me a quick tip as to how going about checking the PCB it would be great.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
Don't know if the PCB was damaged? I Hope not i have the nicer one too, or so i was told? The hot wire from the light i installed (should have wrap the connectors with tap) touched the metal dash for a second ( or so it seemed?) and something started smoking? And the truck is dead, stone dead! I'm currently testing wires. one more thing this truck has not been running fro a few days and i went and touched the alternator and it seemed rather worm? Not worm like it was just running but clearly warmer than andy other part on the cold engine. I scouring through the TM's as i type this (The TM isn't to user friendly in my opinion), so if you can give me a quick tip as to how going about checking the PCB it would be great.
No great way to check a PCB unless you wanna open and look for burnt up bits. Hard to see sometimes when magic smoke gets released. [The TM's talk about a way to build a diagnostic box, but it seems like a huge undertaking for limited payout].

Best way is to make sure batteries are charged, then replace PCB.

If starter is warm, disconnect batteries ASAP, as there was a post in another thread where a bad PCB fried glowplugs. I guess that could happen to any part??

1) ensure batteries are good with a multimeter.

2) Ensure glow plugs are good with a multimeter

3) Make sure HMMWV is in Neutral or Park, (depending on your transmission)! If you're not in N or P the car will not engage the starter!

4) If all that tests out, open PCB and look for damage and burning.

5) If PCB looks ok, test mosfets with multimeter

6) Replace PCB with known good one.

7) Replace glowplug temp sensor if new PCB doesn't fix the situation.

There are others here with MUCH MORE EXPERIENCE THAN ME.

PM those guys and see what they have to say.

I suggest you create a new thread as this thread is about what we have done and not really about what has broken down.

Best of luck,

T
 
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twisted60

Active member
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Location
Jupiter, Florida
Installed a battery cut off switch. Copied location idea from fellow member, worked out pretty good. Built the cables from some 1/0 welding cable I had left over from another project and soldered on the lugs.

IMG_4014.jpgIMG_4015.jpgIMG_4016.jpgIMG_4017.jpg

Just need to put some protection on cables going into battery box so they don't chafe.
 
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