What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Is that the std or the heavy duty? Do you have a PN

85 USMC M998 said:

Is that the std or the heavy duty? Do you have a PN

Click to expand...

It won't work on your HMMWV. You just asked what we were using.

Had you asked what you needed, I would look in the parts book to see what the code is for the m998. It is H13. Then I would flip to the steering section for the page showing the steering linkage. There are 2 idler arms listed for the early trucks. I would look for which one had H13 listed as the "useable on code" (UOC). That part number would be L-20-MA-133-A-11. Also known as 12340016 or 5716691. Then I would check multiple vendors to find the best price. Kascar has them for $86.98. Epay has them for about $75 shipped.

Action said:

It won't work on your HMMWV. You just asked what we were using.

Had you asked what you needed, I would look in the parts book to see what the code is for the m998. It is H13. Then I would flip to the steering section for the page showing the steering linkage. There are 2 idler arms listed for the early trucks. I would look for which one had H13 listed as the "useable on code" (UOC). That part number would be L-20-MA-133-A-11. Also known as 12340016 or 5716691. Then I would check multiple vendors to find the best price. Kascar has them for $86.98. Epay has them for about $75 shipped.

Click to expand...

Action , I apologize for not being more clear. I wanted to know if people are using the standard (L-20-MA-133-A-11 Idler) or heavy duty (06004839 Idler Arm, Steering, Heavy Duty). The 06004839 will work but one has to add a couple washers to take up the space between the link arm and castle but. There are a few vendors out there that I can source from. From what I know and been told both will work. I may just spend the ~30-40% more and buy the heavy duty.

Finally got around to installing keyed ignition switch from FMP. Nice quality. Easy installation with stepped bit.

https://youtu.be/_eoMY4GlXiU



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

85 USMC M998 said:

I heed to replace the idle arm on the steering. I have a early M998. What are you all using?

Click to expand...

This is what you need.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173180349325

Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk

Action said:

I am using this one.

Click to expand...

Thats for the 1123 , 1151.

Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk

JoeJrTheBarber said:

Never knew a aftermarket wheel on this forum would cause so much grief.
They are not hubcaps. They are not 6 bolt wheels adapted to the truck . No wheel adapters are being used.
Look at the pictures below. The wheel is bolted to the stock / OEM hub with Eight8 lugs just like the stock wheel.
View attachment 744027 View attachment 744028 View attachment 744021
The Six(6) larger bolts are just for show and have nothing to do with mounting , and are nothing more then decoration. They are part of the wheel and can not be removed.
The "screws" around the perimeter are just the same, just their for show / design.

Hope this helps some of you sleep at night.

Click to expand...

They look good. What I see with the increased width around the hub, allows the rim design to protect the lugs and lug nuts. Not a bad idea when you think about it. If they removed the chessy looking 5 fake bolts. Made it flush in the middle similar to the 24 bolt rims. Then you would have a stock looking rim in 17 inch that would allow for a more variety of tires then the limited selection of 16.5.

Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk

Replaced the oil in all 4 hubs....well 3 and topped one off. PO destroyed the right rear drain plug. I used Lucas 75W-90 because I had several quarts from an old project sitting around. I did note the LO called for 80-90 but I did see and option to use GO75. I made an assumption that 75W-90 is equivalent? If anyone knows of a reason that I shouldn't be using that 75W-90 please let me know, I welcome any input ....I don't want to destroy anything. Next project will be getting that drain plug out of that RR hub, and replacing Diff fluid. Good Times!!!!!

Installed new MTR tires, replaced pitman arm, replaced windshield washer motor, installed new passenger seat, installed CB radio, rack and antenna, tie rod dust boots are on order, Centramatic wheel ballencer's on order, when new grease arrives she'll get a full lube, plan to check hubs when I pull tires to install Centramatic's. Think that's it for now.

Tie Rod dust boots? I unsuccessfully tried to ask / find about the spec on these, where did you get them? I ended up with the whole rod.

I installed my new Four Seasons blower motor and new squirrel cage. My old motor sucked! It was super loud, all I can hear with this one is the air, not the motor.

Old one, with engine and squirrel cage off:
https://youtu.be/IC57mhQa7CY

And I ordered a block heater. I started the truck up at 34 degrees yesterday. Wow it hated that. First smoke I've ever seen from it, and the initial engine noise sounded brutal. Poor thing. I inspected drivers side for one, nothing, so a Kats 41mm is coming. Two versions, only 1 said it fit, but I suspect they both would.

therooster2001 said:

And I ordered a block heater. I started the truck up at 34 degrees yesterday. Wow it hated that. First smoke I've ever seen from it, and the initial engine noise sounded brutal. Poor thing. I inspected drivers side for one, nothing, so a Kats 41mm is coming. Two versions, only 1 said it fit, but I suspect they both would.

Click to expand...

I bet you have some glow plug issues if you struggled to start at 34. I would test them. Also remember you what you may be hearing is the cold advance. When it’s engaged the motor sounds much different until up to temp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

therooster2001 said:

Tie Rod dust boots? I unsuccessfully tried to ask / find about the spec on these, where did you get them? I ended up with the whole rod.

I installed my new Four Seasons blower motor and new squirrel cage. My old motor sucked! It was super loud, all I can hear with this one is the air, not the motor.

Old one, with engine and squirrel cage off:
https://youtu.be/IC57mhQa7CY

And I ordered a block heater. I started the truck up at 34 degrees yesterday. Wow it hated that. First smoke I've ever seen from it, and the initial engine noise sounded brutal. Poor thing. I inspected drivers side for one, nothing, so a Kats 41mm is coming. Two versions, only 1 said it fit, but I suspect they both would.

Click to expand...

I really like to also heat the oil pans too. Both the engine and the tranny. Cold oil is not a happy thing.

Tie Rod dust boots? I unsuccessfully tried to ask / find about the spec on these, where did you get them? I ended up with the whole rod.

I just took my HF caliper and crawled under my HMMWV and pried up 1 of the boots and measured the tie rod base and shaft. I went with the Energy Suspension 9.13119G. I purchased them on epay, but there were many distributors. Kascar also has a listing for tie rod boots, a set of 6 $50, I went a cheaper route 6 cost me $18. Installed first 2 yesterday, slipped on perfectly, the base of the boot is a little smaller than the tie rod base but you want it a little smaller, boots snapped right into place, reattached tie rod to center link and torqued to spec, greased up and that's it, all done...for now 4 more to go...


Also available in red if you want to add some color.

Changed 2 more tie rod boots today and installed Centramatic wheel balancer's on front wheels. Will do last 2 dust boots and rear Centramatic's next week. 2 events scheduled this weekend so wont have time.

Checked both differentials and transfer case fluids while I was under her today, good visual on everything else.

Highly recommend the OTC 8150 Conical Pitman Arm Puller, made my life much easier popping tie rod ends out. Big thanks to the SS member who pointed me to it.

Forgive the ignorance but that's two a side up front and 1 a side in the rear radius rods, for the 6 total, correct? Got the boots and the puller on the way, thanks for the tip. And I still have 2 news rods just in case they don't pass.

therooster2001 said:

Forgive the ignorance but that's two a side up front and 1 a side in the rear radius rods, for the 6 total, correct? Got the boots and the puller on the way, thanks for the tip. And I still have 2 news rods just in case they don't pass.

Click to expand...

Yes, that is correct. My 4 up front boots are done now, next week I'll do the rear. The OTC 8150 worked great, popped tie rod ends out no problem, I recommend threading the tie rod nut back on about 3/4 to provide a retaining point for the tip of puller, its an extra step but it helps keep the tip of the puller centered on tie rod stud. Also this puller worked great on my pitman arm change, prior to buying it i destroyed a 3 arm puller and a universal puller trying to pull my pitman arm, this baby slid on and pitman arm didn't stand a chance, well the air impact and PB Blaster helped too. I didn't use heat on pitman arm, I remember reading a note in one of the TM's saying you could damage the steering box seals if you used heat.

Finally done with the roof rack and got my 4 man divider in while I was at it. Also got my jack mounted.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow really looks great. Nice to have a high lift jack and store it out of the way.

I always did like roof racks on trucks. I personally don't have a use for them but they sure do look good. Good job.

lowell66dart said:

I always did like roof racks on trucks. I personally don't have a use for them but they sure do look good. Good job.

Click to expand...

I am going to fab up a box to go up there that I can lock up all my recovery gear in so I can get my underwear storage back plus a few other odd and ends like my pioneer kit and the jack that’s bolted on it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk