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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
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Location
Utah
I finished the ten rounds, taking the truck for a short drive a couple days, drained and filled five more times until water came out ALMOST clear, finally said the heck with it (I AM running your system by the way), rust color’s coming back again, but I DO have several bottles of Prestone corrosion-stop in the system too.

Going to replace the thermostat with a Milodon and some other recommended temp sensor and see if I can get operating temps a few degrees lower.

Just for fun. I’ll flush it again in a couple years maybe (per TM recommendations on fluid changes) if the motor lives that long it’ll be my treat.
Norm if your system is that bad please pull off our hoses and blow them backwards (front to back) with compressed air to make sure all that gunk did not clog things up. Sounds like your truck ran with river water or worse for a period in it's past. Anti-corrosion is a good plan for a while.
 

G3isMe

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
91
42
18
Location
Texas
New Wiper Arms

While I have been waiting 3 long months for my new Marine Corps HMMWV 1045 A2 to arrive, now scheduled to be delivered Monday, June 17[SUP]th[/SUP],....:clinto:... I’ve been collecting needed parts. One thing I needed is a pair of windshield wipers. Evidently during the surplus/demill process either they were removed or someone cannibalized the windshield wiper arms. It looks like a lot of the Humvees selling in GovPlanet auctions lately are missing wipers. Doing some researching I found OEM wiper arms at a reasonable price but of course they took the bolt-on wiper blades. This may be old news to some but I found that wiper arms designed for 1980-1995 Jeep Wranglers/CJ-7s will fit HMMWVs. So I bought a pair of these arms at a local O’Reilly’s Auto Parts Store. I also purchased a pair of wiper blades. Comparing these new ones to the OEM I have on my M998, these look like they are a pretty good match. The wiper blades are the same length, 11 inches, as OEM, while the “Jeep" arms are about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the original arms. I don't think this small difference will be an issue. Once I get these installed I let you know how they fit.

.
1-HMMWV Wipers.jpg2-HMMWV Wipers.jpg3-HMMWV Wipers.jpg4-HMMWV Wipers.jpg
 
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Dock Rocker

Active member
980
71
28
Location
Jackson ms
While I have been waiting 3 long months for my new Marine Corps HMMWV 1045 A2 to arrive, now scheduled to be delivered Monday, June 17[SUP]th[/SUP],....:clinto:... I’ve been collecting needed parts. One thing I needed is a pair of windshield wipers. Evidently during the surplus/demill process either they were removed or someone cannibalized the windshield wiper arms. It looks like a lot of the Humvees selling in GovPlanet auctions lately are missing wipers. Doing some researching I found OEM wiper arms at a reasonable price but of course they took the bolt-on wiper blades. This may be old news to some but I found that wiper arms designed for 1980-1995 Jeep Wranglers/CJ-7s will fit HMMWVs. So I bought a pair of these arms at a local O’Reilly’s Auto Parts Store. I also purchased a pair of wiper blades. Comparing these new ones to the OEM I have on my M998, these look like they are a pretty good match. The wiper blades are the same length, 11 inches, as OEM, while the “Jeep" arms are about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the original arms. I don't think this small difference will be an issue. Once I get these installed I let you know how they fit.

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View attachment 767884View attachment 767885View attachment 767886View attachment 767887
Why not just get a set of H1 arms. They are a perfect fit and work a thousand times better than the military junk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

G3isMe

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Texas
Why not just get a set of H1 arms. They are a perfect fit and work a thousand times better than the military junk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good question. I went to two different auto parts stores and neither of them could find H1 arms. I guess I wasn't looking in the right places. The 1980-95 Jeep is just another option.
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
So, I just did seals on both diffs and brakes. Was adding oil to rear diff. Wasn’t paying attention and screwed the fill plug all the way in and it fell in the rear diff. Can’t take the cover off due to caliper brackets. Can’t take caliper brackets off without dropping axles and side yoke hubs.

Mine isn’t a pipe thread. It just keeps going. I was listening to music and wasn’t watching and just screwing it in. It was the last thing before taking it off the lift!!!!!

oh, cut myself bad pulling the side seal and spent 4 hours in the er and stitches last night.
ugh!!!!!

spent nearly two hours trying to fish
it out. Gave up. Now it is all torn down. Waiting on a new felpro rear gasket and will put it back together tonight

not happy with myself!!!
 

AOR

Member
134
23
18
Location
Burtonsville, MD.
Sounds like you have had a rough time with this. I can tell you what we did here to my personal M998. As I recall there is only 1 bolt on each differential that is preventing the cover from coming off. We took a carbide burr and made some clearance on the caliper bracket for the bolt to come out. It did not take much grinding to achieve the needed clearance. There is plenty of material there. Also all you need is some good RTV sealer no paper gasket is needed. Since we are mostly a Jeep shop we use the grey Chrysler stuff we have probably sealed a few thousand covers this way and have not had any issues with leaking. Back in the day when these trucks were new I assume paper gaskets were used but over the years RTV has gotten better. We used to use that Permatex black RTV but since we found several of them leaking after about a year we switched to OEM. Its worth it to make a trip to your local Chrysler dealership I think they are only about 8.00-10.00 per tube and 1 tube will do 2 covers easily. We have used the Mopar grey RTV on all makes and models
Also I thought my diff plugs were pipe thread but I may be wrong.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,172
2,799
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
So, I just did seals on both diffs and brakes. Was adding oil to rear diff. Wasn’t paying attention and screwed the fill plug all the way in and it fell in the rear diff. Can’t take the cover off due to caliper brackets. Can’t take caliper brackets off without dropping axles and side yoke hubs.

Mine isn’t a pipe thread. It just keeps going. I was listening to music and wasn’t watching and just screwing it in. It was the last thing before taking it off the lift!!!!!

oh, cut myself bad pulling the side seal and spent 4 hours in the er and stitches last night.
ugh!!!!!

spent nearly two hours trying to fish
it out. Gave up. Now it is all torn down. Waiting on a new felpro rear gasket and will put it back together tonight

not happy with myself!!!

So the obligatory question is...

You were screwing it in, and went too deep, and now you can't pull it out?

Never thought I would hear such words.

Hope your cut and stitches heal up good.

Best,

T
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
So the obligatory question is...

You were screwing it in, and went too deep, and now you can't pull it out?

Never thought I would hear such words.

Hope your cut and stitches heal up good.

Best,

T
So...local autoparts store "said" they ordered the felpro gasket...but at 3 pm I called and they said it wasn't ordered. I like the paper so it is on...I can torque it...and add oil right away. Not messy like the RTV method. So, I did the RTV thing - but the grey optimum stuff had me put the bead on - finger tighten...wait an hour to torque it...then wait 24 hours to fill with oil. So...got it all together last night except filling with oil and putting the plug back in (this time with ample thread tape so it doesn't go in all the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Either they are made this way, or maybe last time it had military service, perhaps they taped the threads from a strip or ran the plug all the way in and took the taper out of it?

I was just turning it in, couldn't look up and see because the stitches on my arm were sore and I couldn't lean against that arm...so I was just fingering it with the hex socket in my hand waiting to feel a little resistance, then I was going to put the wrench on when I felt it get tight. But..nope, just went in. Now, with ample thread tape it can be satisfactory sealed in place.

I'd like to say lesson learned - but not so much.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,236
3,775
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
So...local autoparts store "said" they ordered the felpro gasket...but at 3 pm I called and they said it wasn't ordered. I like the paper so it is on...I can torque it...and add oil right away. Not messy like the RTV method. So, I did the RTV thing - but the grey optimum stuff had me put the bead on - finger tighten...wait an hour to torque it...then wait 24 hours to fill with oil. So...got it all together last night except filling with oil and putting the plug back in (this time with ample thread tape so it doesn't go in all the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

Either they are made this way, or maybe last time it had military service, perhaps they taped the threads from a strip or ran the plug all the way in and took the taper out of it?

I was just turning it in, couldn't look up and see because the stitches on my arm were sore and I couldn't lean against that arm...so I was just fingering it with the hex socket in my hand waiting to feel a little resistance, then I was going to put the wrench on when I felt it get tight. But..nope, just went in. Now, with ample thread tape it can be satisfactory sealed in place.

I'd like to say lesson learned - but not so much.

There res is no gasket required on the Diff cover, just liberal amount of RTV.
The plug, it over tightened previously, will distort the taper, thread sealant or new cover is the fix.
this is quite common.
 

87m998

Member
70
10
8
Location
Idaho
I've been trying to get my 700r4 swap done for months and finally showing progress. Hopefully one more long weekend with out any oops and will be done and back on the road.IMG_5193.jpgIMG_5195.jpgIMG_5204.jpgIMG_5205.jpg
 

AOR

Member
134
23
18
Location
Burtonsville, MD.
you may be able to find a taller pipe thread plug that may have wider threads at the top than your current plug and hope to get it tight and seal as long as it will not contact the internal differential parts. diff cover plugs are usually 3/8" or 1/2 NPT and easily found at hardware stores. If it does not tighten its time for a new cover.
we also put a small amount of that Mopar grey RTV on fill plugs for added leak prevention.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,815
4,139
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
LOL not sure how to take that as I've never considered my shop as clean,but thanks
It's all good, I meant it in a good way.

But not as "clean" really so much as (all things considered), fairly "squared away", you know in the USN sense!

Not everybody's shop looks the same, you know?!



AA.jpg
 
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johan77

Active member
137
48
28
Location
limburg belgium
repaired the deuce's cabine soft top....the old way....it does the job just fine , it was not possible to touch the truck...too hot...one off the next days will be the rebuild of my airpack , the repair kit has arrived….(any tips how you guys clean the air lines, or dont clean them...but when draining the air tanks there's H2o together with some black ish stuff that looks (and feels) like used oil) thanks !!!
 

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johan77

Active member
137
48
28
Location
limburg belgium
Oh, man, that Singer machine is a beauty!

Those things are built like a ROCK. What's the history behind yours?!
its working fine, it only needed some love and attention.....i found it in a rough (but complete) shape in a second hand store for a few euro's. sand blasted the cabinet and applied 2 coates of clear varnish, the machine itself i only cleaned out with compressed air, i have it for a year or 15 now, it was Always standing in the hallway here but was never used, untill i decided to give it a try to do the canvas repairs myself instead of running all over town to search for someone who does that kinda stuff....(they dont like to see me coming with something like a used heavy and for them dirty canvas cover) !! what you do yourself, you do mostly better
 
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