What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Cleaned it up. I'm well loved.

Working on putting things back together this week. Love the new paint job!

Fabricated a new mount for driver's seat and installed four new seats.

Not today but a year ago. Best kept secret under the hood. While not in the TM's... it could provide an insight to problems on or down the road.

Fuel pressure, Go, NO-GO, White smoke signals??? Here's what I did. Epay, Marshall oil filled gauge, 0-15 PSI on the cheap $15. Add 1/8 pipe elbow. Remove the (junk, who uses it any way) test sender on top of fuel filter. Add elbow, add gauge. Build out as shown in pictures. This may not solve your problem, But adds to the ability to self-diagnose fuel pressure in the field. 5 PSI is 5 PSI. No guessing, NO smoke and mirrors.

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AND here's another, the "FOR SURE OIL" pressure. Same concept. Same type Marshall Gauge only 0-60 PSI. Mounted on bracket and plumbed (hard lined but could be a short hose) pointed forward to see with hood open. While one can have issues with the in dash military gauges, (mine work right) having a for sure test verification makes life easy... POP the HOOD and PEEK.

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CAM

Milcommoguy said:

Not today but a year ago. Best kept secret under the hood. While not in the TM's... it could provide an insight to problems on or down the road.

Fuel pressure, Go, NO-GO, White smoke signals??? Here's what I did. Epay, Marshall oil filled gauge, 0-15 PSI on the cheap $15. Add 1/8 pipe elbow. Remove the (junk, who uses it any way) test sender on top of fuel filter. Add elbow, add gauge. Build out as shown in pictures. This may not solve your problem, But adds to the ability to self-diagnose fuel pressure in the field. 5 PSI is 5 PSI. No guessing, NO smoke and mirrors.

View attachment 728377View attachment 728378

AND here's another, the "FOR SURE OIL" pressure. Same concept. Same type Marshall Gauge only 0-60 PSI. Mounted on bracket and plumbed (hard lined but could be a short hose) pointed forward to see with hood open. While one can have issues with the in dash military gauges, (mine work right) having a for sure test verification makes life easy... POP the HOOD and PEEK.

View attachment 728379View attachment 728381

CAM

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I might just have to copy the oil pressure redundancy; however, I am one of the dweebs that actually owns and uses an electronic ICE diagnostics set, so I like having my fuel pressure transducer in-place!

Changed the oil and filter. Took it for a spin, went to park on a slanted driveway, and then found out my parking brake wasn't adjusted correctly. Adjusting and testing, chocking wheels until then. I also did a amp meter on the positive battery cable when starting. I might not have done it correctly, as I am only seeing a spike of 12-15Amps. Either I did it wrong, or I have 7 bad glow plugs, which I don't think so, but am Ohm'ing them out today. No issues on start, no smoke, no EESS issues. The troubleshooting guide says it should pull 90A.

Update edit: Well, all but 1 are good. they all ohm'd out at around 2.1. The one that didn't, had nothing. Looks like I'm going to replace that one. Without too much diversion of the thread, whats the consensus on replacing 1 vs 8?.

Did a bunch of maintenance. Did the differentials, they were really torqued down. The front started pouring out as soon as I cracked the fill hole. I have no ideas how it could be overfilled, it's is possible that it expanded, as I'm at altitude, feels weird. Not a ton, but definitely overfilled.

Flushed cooling system, and found this stuck in the overflow hose:



Going to leave it in overnight, then drain, maybe flush with pure water and put in green. I did only get out 4 gallons though on drain, is that everyone's experience?

What is that, a chunk of RTV?

Installed the canceling ring for the turn signal. No more excessive blinking for me!

11C 31A said:

Installed the canceling ring for the turn signal. No more excessive blinking for me!

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I have always wondered how those things work. Got a pic?


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Pic

therooster2001 said:

Did a bunch of maintenance. Did the differentials, they were really torqued down. The front started pouring out as soon as I cracked the fill hole. I have no ideas how it could be overfilled, it's is possible that it expanded, as I'm at altitude, feels weird. Not a ton, but definitely overfilled.

Flushed cooling system, and found this stuck in the overflow hose:

View attachment 728871View attachment 728872

Going to leave it in overnight, then drain, maybe flush with pure water and put in green. I did only get out 4 gallons though on drain, is that everyone's experience?

Click to expand...

Make sure to turn on heater and also flush the heater core.

juanprado said:

Make sure to turn on heater and also flush the heater core.

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Definitely. It was 50 and raining, so the heat was welcome while I ran it around. It never got above 205 ( I still suspect my gauge is off 10 degrees over). I did get a new temp sensor and a thermostat, but weening about ripping the old ones out, for fear of leaks or problems, but if I need to I'd have to drain a bit again and I think I already found my overheat problem. I watched that laser thermo like a hawk, it opened exactly at 180.

And yes, it does look like a piece of RTV.

After the flush, it's onto the transfer case and the transmission, and hoping for a non swelled glow plug.

I also got some turnlock springs installed for the doghouse, some data panels riveted, and my EESS grounded, the rivnut cooperated today.

I need to solve my water in the bed coming into the cab issue. Thinking of doing that fiberglass / rubber mat one on Epay, and making my own 4 man divider. Also got a wild hair to make some half doors. I bought ball joint boots, and shocks. Tires are also needed. Too many things!

11C 31A said:

Installed the canceling ring for the turn signal. No more excessive blinking for me!

Click to expand...

I've been trying to find one of those for a while. Where did you source it?

therooster2001 said:

I need to solve my water in the bed coming into the cab issue. Thinking of doing that fiberglass / rubber mat one on Epay, and making my own 4 man divider. Also got a wild hair to make some half doors. I bought ball joint boots, and shocks. Tires are also needed. Too many things!

Click to expand...

Could try a soft slant back, if you've got a soft top rig. (shameless plug)
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-4-Man-Soft-Slant-Backs-and-Frames&highlight=

I don't have any in stock at the moment, but can make one relatively quick (end of month or so). I'm half way done with a tan one for another member. Thank goodness he is patient.

BDGR

Mounted my mirrors and powder coated my valve covers.

i put the mirrors pretty low to increase visibility but I’m kinda doubting myself now and may move them up.

Skrilex said:

Mounted my mirrors and powder coated my valve covers.

i put the mirrors pretty low to increase visibility but I’m kinda doubting myself now and may move them up.

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Are those Jeep Wrangler Mirrors? Sure look like it?

Finally got around to doing this yesterday.

I'd cut the pieces last year, posted about it, put them aside and forgot about it. Well, ignored them.

Mostly because I'm not a welder and the welds I was making with a cheapo $120 DC welder from Amazon.con looked like lumps of bondo. Just got up the gumption to go ahead and do it, figure the welds are on the back anyway and who cares?

Now to put on some headlight lens rock guards (got 'em ordered).

shawnshumvee said:

Are those Jeep Wrangler Mirrors? Sure look like it?

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Yep cheap heep mirrors 30$/ pair. They seem totally appropriate to me.

Skrilex said:

Yep cheap heep mirrors 30$/ pair. They seem totally appropriate to me.

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Now come on with the “heep” stuff. Jeeps are great. But yeah the H1 manual mirrors are very close to the Wrangler mirrors from 1995-2002.