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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

infidel got me

infidel got me

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Newberry, Florida
Milcommoguy, I didn't go as far as you did, wow , that was a complete overhaul. Guestimated on the shim measured adjustment, I started out with 2.5 negative camber on the right front. I added 3- 1/8" shims and ended up with .5 positive camber on the first try. The left ft. was at .5 already, so I left it alone. Caster was not a factor as truck does not pull when driving, no wandering all over the road and it wont wear your tires out. I will drive it for a while and see how they wear. If it wears on tires, I will dive back in and adjust as necessary. I do all the work on my truck (auto/truck tech 30 plus years) and I completely agree with you on the judgement $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ of a Humvee owner. If I didn't know how to work on a vehicle, there is NO WAY I could afford a Humvee. I went through it upon purchase, fixed/repaired/replaced all worn/leaky/squeaky/worn//broke/missing parts and made it safe and reliable. Painted it myself also. The hardest thing to learn was the cooling system. Once I learned that, these are really not difficult to service/repair. Patience is the most important tool you can have being a Humvee owner- the second is this web site. Learned a lot from here. I would drive my truck anywhere without a thought-- with tools of course lol
 
infidel got me

infidel got me

Well-known member
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Location
Newberry, Florida
Bulldogger said:
Is that the rig described in the TM? Doesn't look like it. Could you provide more explanation of the tools/procedure?

BDGR
Click to expand...
Bulldogger, this is an old snap-on alignment system a mechanic friend of mine owns. Used a lot around race cars and is very simple/reliable. Consists of two heavy a## turn table plates and two caster/camber gauges. This is old school stuff but works as good as new computerized machines. As far as tools for adjustments are simple hand tools. This set up is still used today in the race world...
 
McSpeed

McSpeed

Well-known member
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Location
Palmer, AK
Replaced the temp gauge (240 degree) and temp sending unit. Temp needle was all over the place. Dancing and jiggling. Turns out it was just a poor connection at the sending unit. But went ahead and swapped it out.
 
NormB

NormB

Well-known member
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Location
Cloverly,MD
Broke my truck.

In preparation for installing the 200A alternator I’ve had for 2 years, I pulled the 60A alternator, bracket, powersteering pump (also going to change out, made all kinds of racket last time I used it just to reel in a new cable, overheated, seemed like a good idea to replace), pulled hydraulic fan clutch hose - put quick detach in place. Now that I know how easy it is to do - ahem - if it leaks, I’ll put the other one back.

Tried drilling a hole in the broken stud (the one the generator bracket/arm connects to) without pulling the header.

What I was hoping to see:

CECE8D21-7CC9-4CF7-AB70-FDA58DF606E2.jpg

What can go wrong? put my radiator protection board in place, leaned over into the generator space with a magnifier hood and a center punch, found edges of broken stud, made a mark on center. repeated this a few times, then started a whole with a left-handed bit. drilled a little, checked that I was going in square - seemed like it - got maybe a 1/4” in and engine coolant started squirting out.

Then I broke the drill.

Uh.....

8D045702-DB42-42EE-A32A-370F4F2D4E6D.jpg

This will take some time to fix. Pretty sure I can take off the header without pulling the engine. Getting that hole plugged might be a chore, but coolant pressures what, about 15psi? 22? (I know, it’s in -10 somewhere), maybe some high-temp sealant, couple of those GM stop-leak tabs... point being, if I can get the stud fragment out, pluggin the hole’s the least of my worries.

Got a set of spare heads, but THAT would be a HOLY chore.

Good news is, I didn’t cut myself once this time.

Hooh-boy.
 
McSpeed

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
I installed a glove box. Three zip screws and a small plastic ammo can from Harbor Freight mounted bottom to the windshield above the steering wheel just to the left of the cut-out for the wiper arm access. FINALLY, can get the paper goodies off the box on the floor.

I also ordered an 8" ATV/boat bluetooth speaker box. I plan on making a quick mount and just transferring it from the truck to the boat since I will only be one or the other at a time...and don't want to leave the truck at the ram (doors off) with something easy to steal.
 
infidel got me

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
McSpeed said:
I installed a glove box. Three zip screws and a small plastic ammo can from Harbor Freight mounted bottom to the windshield above the steering wheel just to the left of the cut-out for the wiper arm access. FINALLY, can get the paper goodies off the box on the floor.

I also ordered an 8" ATV/boat bluetooth speaker box. I plan on making a quick mount and just transferring it from the truck to the boat since I will only be one or the other at a time...and don't want to leave the truck at the ram (doors off) with something easy to steal.
Click to expand...
I keep all my paperwork in a plastic bungie cord container/ with a screw on lid, under the left rear seat.
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,250
2,971
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
NormB said:
Broke my truck.

In preparation for installing the 200A alternator I’ve had for 2 years, I pulled the 60A alternator, bracket, powersteering pump (also going to change out, made all kinds of racket last time I used it just to reel in a new cable, overheated, seemed like a good idea to replace), pulled hydraulic fan clutch hose - put quick detach in place. Now that I know how easy it is to do - ahem - if it leaks, I’ll put the other one back.

Tried drilling a hole in the broken stud (the one the generator bracket/arm connects to) without pulling the header.

What I was hoping to see:

View attachment 757928

What can go wrong? put my radiator protection board in place, leaned over into the generator space with a magnifier hood and a center punch, found edges of broken stud, made a mark on center. repeated this a few times, then started a whole with a left-handed bit. drilled a little, checked that I was going in square - seemed like it - got maybe a 1/4” in and engine coolant started squirting out.

Then I broke the drill.

Uh.....

View attachment 757927

This will take some time to fix. Pretty sure I can take off the header without pulling the engine. Getting that hole plugged might be a chore, but coolant pressures what, about 15psi? 22? (I know, it’s in -10 somewhere), maybe some high-temp sealant, couple of those GM stop-leak tabs... point being, if I can get the stud fragment out, pluggin the hole’s the least of my worries.

Got a set of spare heads, but THAT would be a HOLY chore.

Good news is, I didn’t cut myself once this time.

Hooh-boy.
Click to expand...
Hit the broken left spin drill bit with a high temp highly focuses small flame to get rid of the tempering. Place wet rags around the hole to prevent other metals being affected. Then drill out with a right spin bit.
 
Last edited:
JoeJrTheBarber

JoeJrTheBarber

New member
268
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0
Location
Chicago, IL
Got my front and rear cameras working …
Front Camera=Grille3.jpg Rear Camera=BackUpCamera.jpg

BackUpCamera2.jpgBack .jpg
Sine I no longer have a rear window the rear camera is wired to come on with ign. to "act" as my rear view mirror.
Then when need be I can flip a switch to change to front camera view to aide in parking or whatever.
 
Last edited:
infidel got me

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
JTB- Looking at your back curtain, did you do away with the rear seatbelts, or did you relocate them??? I want to do the same curtain in mine, only with a 5 ton or deuce winder..
 
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