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Is that Bias 36's on 12 bolt rims? If so that puppy must have come out of the smithsonian museum .....
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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
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They are bias and one is an 8 bolt!!!
I bet she ain't got squat for miles on her, too bad they cut the harness when they removed the dash, there are some front end parts gone, the 200A is gone
I of course have no idea what the history is, it has a NP242 so I assume it has an upgraded fuel tank, too bad I could have used a spare basic/A1 tank.
I will see if she will run (she has a 6.2L), who knows what her future is, at a min I have a ton of spare drive train parts for the DuraVee, diffs, hubs, brakes etc. and the body looks straight as a pin. and the back doors are almost worth half what I paid for her.
EDIT, heck I just looked and it appears the NP242 was stock on the M1097A1, I thought that was an A2 thing, learn something every day!
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Autonomy_Lost
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Put some weatherstripping on the turret today (inside and outside, since the brushes are hard to find and expensive). Now just need a hatch.
Finally decided to drop the trans on my truck and change the flexplate. I had issues where occasionally the starter wouldn’t engage the flexplate teeth and just grind them down further. This spawned from some start switch issues many months ago. Needless to say I drove around with a 1” wrench to manually bar over the crank for about a week, not cool trying to leave a parking lot with everyone staring after your starter screeches
On top of chewed up teeth, I think my old plate was bent too. So the combination of it sitting further from the bendix gear along with the already chewed up spots just made it a perfect pain lol
Along with replacing the flexplate, I changed the trans input seal, torque converter o-ring, and replaced all the old trans cooler lines
I threw in pics of the old vs new, you can see how much closer the ring gear sits to the bendix with the new plate
On top of chewed up teeth, I think my old plate was bent too. So the combination of it sitting further from the bendix gear along with the already chewed up spots just made it a perfect pain lol
Along with replacing the flexplate, I changed the trans input seal, torque converter o-ring, and replaced all the old trans cooler lines
I threw in pics of the old vs new, you can see how much closer the ring gear sits to the bendix with the new plate
Attachments
How difficult was it to get that personalized tag?
Normally I would agree - but, the build fits well in this forum. Perhaps the member could post a highlight of all that was done.
I have been posting under the 1097 specific thread. I’ve only been hitting it in small amounts. It’s a GP purchase and was not a runner when I bought it. Had to put a starter on, dual voltage regulator, replaced the belts, new thermostat, batteries, need 2 battery cables, new engine oil pan (got dented by a forklift tube at some point along the way), and the clutch fan solenoid relay hose needs replaced. I need to change the fuel filter and source a few smaller but critical parts. Am eager to see whether it will run or not! Whew. And that’s just what I know about from a quick visual inspection.
HUMMER H1
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I was just fortunate it wasn’t taken, California charges flat fee of 45 bucks for those plates to buy and 50 buck each year.
My Hummer plate says H1 USA that was also available in 2018
May i ask what gear oil you are using and why?
I also thought about using gear oil instead of atf.
HUMMER H1
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few reasons why I chose gear oil instead of ATF,
i drive a lot, my transfer case gets hot, I had to replace the ATF every 15 to 20.000 miles, it was cooking inside and envaporating
I had enough of that, gear oil a lot more heat tolerant than ATF.
gear oil is also a lot quieter than super thin ATF
Gear oil has cushion factor, AFF does not.
I have thoroughly checked and inspected the 242 transfer case before I made the decision to go with Gear oil, this transfer case is no different than any other transfer case that uses gear oil,
In California warm weather conditions ATF doesn’t do the job for me, gear oil is much better for all the gears and bearings inside, and that’s all it has in there .
I am using generic gear oil form NAPA
I put a brand new transfer case in 2020, last week it has about 60.000 miles on it, you see chain was stretched, it also destroyed the cooling loop inside, thankfully I always bypass the cooling loop on all my trucks, otherwise all that aluminum shavings would of killed my transmission.
Without a cooling loop, it’s a 100% isolated unit, no need to keep using ATF.
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I like the way you think on the transfer case.
Never used ATF in any of the transfer cases till the HumV show up. OEM guys are going to have something to say. All
's.Thinking outside the box
Gearbox, CAMO
HUMMER H1
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OEM doesn’t mean always good or accurateI like the way you think on the transfer case.
All
Thinking outside the box
ok granted, my T case chain lasted 60.000 miles, with ATF, I am sure gear won’t extend its life any longer, however why not try something that could be better in other ways.
I’ll keep you guys updated as mileage goes up, I am so far at 780 miles, I even did towing today, 140 miles , no problem at all.
That German garbage broke down again.
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Not saying I disagree but what other aluminum housing chain drive transfer cases recommend gear oil?
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A rule of thumb is that if the case is cast iron, use a gear oil, or in the case of the np203, you need to use 30wt motor oil. Aluminium case Dextron lll.
Next under the truck drain and fill.... as an experiment I think I will bypass the cooler and swap some fluids. Looking too see if it dampens some of the noise that is heard. It's a hobby so, let's do some testing.
By the way where are you out of. Picture looks familiar, high desert ?
What could possibly go wrong? CAMO
Next under the truck drain and fill.... as an experiment I think I will bypass the cooler and swap some fluids. Looking too see if it dampens some of the noise that is heard. It's a hobby so, let's do some testing.
By the way where are you out of. Picture looks familiar, high desert ?
What could possibly go wrong? CAMO
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AFAIK the cooling loop has nothing to do with using ATF, every chain drive aluminum case I have seen uses ATF, not saying gear oil would be bad.
This ATF crap started with the transmission in the Chevette as a fuel saving measure during the oil crisis, man we got tons of complaints about noisy transmissions.
This ATF crap started with the transmission in the Chevette as a fuel saving measure during the oil crisis, man we got tons of complaints about noisy transmissions.
HUMMER H1
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95% of transfer cases are aluminum housing,
As far as chain goes, it’s just a connector between two gears nothing else, in fact if you examine 242, it would have been so much easier, tiny bit costly and probably forever solid unit. If they added the 3rd sprocket to make it a gear drive instead of chain drive.
see attached picture, take the chain out of occasion and imagine another gear in between those two
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Just kicking this around the shop.... Transfer case aluminum ATF... Iron case gear oil. Like the OP said, gears is gears. Those transfer cases do seem a bit sloppy. Now the automatic transmission that's another story with it's clutches, and control valves. Gear oil in there and it's a brick. Seems like an interesting concept. Can't be worse than sawdust 
LOL
Slipping and sliding. OK back to work, CAMO
LOLSlipping and sliding. OK back to work, CAMO
HUMMER H1
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Here is an example
All second and 3rd generation Toyota Tacomas use very similar transfer case, all aluminum , split housing,
Two main gears and chain, run by gear oil from factory.
All second and 3rd generation Toyota Tacomas use very similar transfer case, all aluminum , split housing,
Two main gears and chain, run by gear oil from factory.
Thank you @HUMMER H1 for your answer. Seems like there are some pros/cons for using gear oil instead of atf. Since my tc is leaking like hell, i have to remove it and seal it anyway. I will check the chain and think about going the gear oil route.
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Merchant Automotive Transfer Case Fluid | 2qt
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