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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Maxjeep1

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Hmm, what about the 3.5 ton scissor jack, have you had issues with that? Asking because I just bought one.
I haven’t tried a scissor jack. I have an aluminum jack that has a rubber pad on it and bolt tears up the rubber pad. I have a different floor jack and the pin that holds the cup to the jack sheared off and it shot out. I think Bogert will be better.
 

Mogman

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I haven’t tried a scissor jack. I have an aluminum jack that has a rubber pad on it and bolt tears up the rubber pad. I have a different floor jack and the pin that holds the cup to the jack sheared off and it shot out. I think Bogert will be better.
Sounds like you have been buying your jacks at Harbor Freight :ROFLMAO:
 

Maxjeep1

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Sounds like you have been buying your jacks at Harbor Freight :ROFLMAO:
Yes and I have had pretty good luck with them. I think they are all made by the same Chinese kids. I got the atv jack for my RoadKings and it works great on my Cobra also. The Humvee is an awkward beast to lift properly.
 

Mogman

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I got my little "test" rig put together today, I bought a trailer axle spindle, welded a short stub of pipe on it, stuck an old trailer hub on it, put it into one of my engine stands, used a couple muffler clamps to mount a piece of steel for the dial indicator.
I have a modest stack of 24 bolt paired wheels to go through.
Now I can start the tedious and painstaking process of first checking the outside half, then if it passes checking the inside half, changing the "timing" until it gets as good as possible.
My goal is less than .050" radial runout which seems to be one standard I found while searching the subject, this first outside half came in at .023" not a bad start...
Wheel test.jpg
EDIT, .050" seems to be the standard for steel rims (radial and lateral), .125" for a mounted tire, of course most machined aluminium wheels will come in around .001-.004" because they are CNC machined, now I see why aluminum wheels are so popular!!
I am waiting on some more lug nuts to come in before proceeding, got tons of 9/16, this hub uses 1/2"
 
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Autonomy_Lost

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FANTASTIC work! May I ask, is this AL, and are you using Pro CAD software or "consumer grade" details, details........ Also tell the guys from ATF I said HI when they drop by.
Haha 🤣

Side panels are aluminum, barrel is real, the T&E and pintle are real. Everything else is 3D printed plastic.

The side plates are made substantially different than a real gun, so that they cannot be assembled with real M2HB parts and make a functional gun. I'm considering selling these so I wanted to make them ATF compliant.

As for CAD I'm using KeyCreator, its a professional CAD program that I have access to at work. If not for that, I would probably try to learn FreeCAD.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Obviously your heart is in the right place.

Membership should not be weaponized.

This site is meant to be welcoming and helpful.

This is a wonderful site that is potentially free for all. Anything else should be as per member discretion. I’m not comfortable telling others how to spend their valuable $. My feelings are that we don’t walk in their shoes so we shouldn’t have our eyes on their $.

IMHO
 
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TNDRIVER

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Obviously your heart is in the right place.

Membership should not be weaponized.

This site is meant to be welcoming and helpful.

This is a wonderful site that is potentially free for all. Anything else should be as per member discretion. I’m not comfortable telling others how to spend their valuable $. My feelings are that we don’t walk in their shoes so we shouldn’t have my eyes on their $.

IMHO
FYI ,yall..... been lurking here for years, did not realize you could pay with PAYPAL until a while back. I have an aversion to paying with my CC over the net as I think many would. It needs to be pointed out that PAYPAL is accepted.
 

Mogman

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I see you used the lug nut to pull it into place. You have been a member since 2016? You think you could pony up 15 dollars to support the forum?
I don't think it is necessary or correct to hound people, the owner of this forum gives us the choice, it could simply be mandatory and of course would be worth it.
 
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iowa
took the doghouse off today even with all the fasteners removed/loosened it was still stuck really good so for those looking to improve the seal around the dog house I recommend adding kilmat/dynamat around where the doghouse sits like this.

20240323_190406.jpg

you can't see any of the kilmat once the doghouse is on but it really improves the sealing.
 
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