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MEP-802 and 803 Main generator tip.

Guyfang

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The MEP-802 and MEP-803, A1 volt regulators sometimes go bad. When they do, the Stator is often damaged. The troubleshooting diagram tells you to first test the stator. If you find that the stator is defective, naturally, you change it. So after installing the stator, you fire it up and presto! Another bad stator. Why? Because you fixed the symptom, not the cause. So to protect your stator, from a defective A1 volt regulator, and from destroying a second stator, (not cheap) you need to see if your MEP-802 and MEP-803 has been modified. In about 2007 the following PS magazine article was put out. The accompanying Volt Regulator test procedure came from TAACOM. In about 2009 or 2010 the military started to modify all existing MEP-802 and MEP-803's. But a lot never got done. Sadly, I cant find my copy of the Modification, but it follows the PS magazine article almost word for word, BUT it tells you to put a fuse in between Q1 AND Q2 to completely protect your stator from damage by a defective A1 Volt Regulator. This is a simple and cheap insurance for your generator. Later, should you find that a fuse to Q1 and Q2, (Quad Circuit) is blown, you can start on the real problem, the A1 volt regulator, and not have a unservable Stator to boot.


View attachment Testing 5&10 KW VR.pdfView attachment PS Mag May07_ 5-10KW VRfuse.pdf
 

Chrispyny

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Is there a picture somewhere of how this is done? Just curious. I'm sure its not that hard to find.
 

Guyfang

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I may have one. Some people, the Army included, took some sheet metal, bent it 90 degrees and mounted it in the back of the control panel. Ran the wires to the TB and that was it. I will see if I have shot. I tossed out tons of stuff when I quit contracting, but still have a laptop from the day.
 

CT-Mike

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Thanks for the heads j, I'll check and see if this mod has been completed on my 803. Hoping it has been since it had a Tier 2 reset in 2012.
 

Guyfang

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Jimbo,

The first one I saw was a RESET out of Letterkenny, in 2009, I think. Well done, none of this in line fuse bit. A sheet metal bracket, in the back middle of the control cube.
 

Chrispyny

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Jimbo,

The first one I saw was a RESET out of Letterkenny, in 2009, I think. Well done, none of this in line fuse bit. A sheet metal bracket, in the back middle of the control cube.
If anyone has a pic, i'd love to see what i'm supposed to have. This bracket, or an inline fuse jobber please. Ty
 

kloppk

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If anyone has a pic, i'd love to see what i'm supposed to have. This bracket, or an inline fuse jobber please. Ty
Here it is in my 802.

P2.jpg


The circular blue disc is a MOV that I added to prevent the voltage spikes that can take out the diode bridge in the voltage regulator.
 
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Chrispyny

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Awesome man. Thanks. Appreciate it. Now, where can i get that exact fuse holder and fuse? Thats a clean set up. Any details on that 'mov' ? I'll be happy to do the same if you have details please.
Thanks for helping and taking the time to snap a pic and post it! I really appreciate it.
 

kloppk

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Awesome man. Thanks. Appreciate it. Now, where can i get that exact fuse holder and fuse? Thats a clean set up. Any details on that 'mov' ? I'll be happy to do the same if you have details please.
Thanks for helping and taking the time to snap a pic and post it! I really appreciate it.
Fuse Holder is PN: BM6031SQ it's $5-$10 and is available from Mouser, Allied, Newark, Grainger...
The Fuse is PN: FNQ-R-3 it's ~$32 and is also available from Mouser, Allied, Newark, Grainger...

The MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) I purchased from Amazon. $5.40 for a bag of 10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087YL63G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Instead of adding the MOV to protect the diode bridge in the regulator one may be able to replace the diode bridge in the regulator with one rated at a higher PRV (peak reverse voltage). The root cause of the failures is that the PRV rating of the stock diode bridge is too low and thus they prone to failure due to excess voltage.


Different fuse's are called out for the 802/803 mod than what's used on the 805/806 mod.
 
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Hard Head

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I am working with a company to design a exhaust hood with flap for my MEP-802,3,4, and 5A's that I have. We are also adding two slide in filter screens for the intakes. Prevent those dirt daubers from screwing things up! They love to get into anything electrical. I did my fuse mods above with kynar insulated wire as I was out of pfte insulated wire. With winter upon us I am doing the exhaust mod to keep snow and freezing rain out to prevent airflow issues in the unit!
 

Guyfang

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VERY GOOD!! Gentlemen, simply outstanding!

The sad part of the Volt regulator story is the the military has known for the last 12 years what was the problem, and how to fix it. I saw a memo in 2004 explaining the how, what and why. It was stated that the problem would be corrected at a "later date". You don't get much later then 12 years!!

And yes, every TQG model needs to be fixed.
 

kloppk

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I don't have any specific info on how to do it or if it's possible. I never tore into my regulator to see if it was possible. The idea of replacing the diode bridge with one with a higher PRV rating was suggested by another forum member a while back.
The only info I have is the TB indicates the Quad winding voltage can peak at over 400 VAC which exceeds the regulators bridge diode PRV rating.
 

CT-Mike

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I'm happy to say that my 803 already has this mod installed. Don't know if it came that way from the factory when it was built in 2009, or the Tier 2 reset in 2012, either way I'm a happy camper.
 
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