Bad wiring to my regulator on my 1995 M1083

Part of my problem is the fact that the panel cover is missing .The regulator post labeled "E".Has the bad wire . My question is where does that wire go. I think that the post labeled"AC" goes to the gauge inside the truck cab. How and where would you connect the new fused wires in the cab power panel.

It's a dual voltage alternator with 12 volt and 24 volt outputs. There is a 12 volt and 24 volt regulator input. Probably easier for you to get 12 and 24 (individually fuse each wire at the box connection with waterproof fuse holder 20a is good) at the polarity protective box under the spare tire. Make sure you tap off the truck side not the battery side of the box. You can run the wires up along the passenger side of the engine there are alternator leads there already. If you want to do it at the dash you need to pull up the breaker panel and take the passenger kick panel off. Under the panel there are bolts with non fused leads coming off the batteries one for 12 volt, 24 volt and a 3rd negative. You should probably disconnect the batteries first there is no protection on these leads if you ground one it won't work out well.

Suprman said:

If you want to do it at the dash you need to pull up the breaker panel and take the passenger kick panel off. Under the panel there are bolts with non fused leads coming off the batteries one for 12 volt, 24 volt and a 3rd negative. You should probably disconnect the batteries first there is no protection on these leads if you ground one it won't work out well.

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Are these 12 & 24 volt non-fused leads accessible under the passenger kick panel or do you actually have to lift the breaker panel? I guess the next question is whether or not they are easily identifiable. I'm assuming from your comment that these are direct battery contacts.

Thx

You have to lift the breaker panel. Its not hard to do its 8 or so phillips screws the frame comes up with it. The kick has to come off so you can run the wire thru. On the left side of the breaker panel are 3 posts 12v 24v and ground. Other side of those are bolts with power wires to them. The top of the panel posts are labeled but its wise to verify with a voltmeter before connecting.

All you non electrical types will just love the spaghetti under there.

Many thanks, I don't want to hijack this thread with another topic but it pertains to the above. I will send you a quick PM.

After looking at the the truck, removing most of the dashboard to replace the gauge bulbs and see why the heater doesn't work etc. I think you were correct with the first suggestion of the box under the spare tire . How can I tell the difference between the truck side vs. the battery side .

The battery side has 2 power cables going to the batteries. One for 12 and one 24 volt. The truck side has 12 and 24 volt leads making their way into the truck. Does your heater not have power or no circulating coolant? Very important to go over the power panel and make sure it's properly populated. The diagram is on the inside of the cover.

The fan does work. How would I know if the coolant is being circulanted .The heat knob doesn't push in .I ran out of time couldn't tell what the heating cable was attached to. Do You have problems sending more than one message per day. It seems that I cannot send more than one . It tells me to log in even though I am logged in.

The knobs get bent and stuck. If it makes heat you know coolant is being circulated. If the coolant level in the reservoir behind the cab is ok and the truck dosnt overheat then I think you are good. You may be able to take the heater apart and free the controls up. I don't have any message problems.

Now I have a new issue , the left wheel on the front rear axle will not turn. I always drain all 3 air tanks , I guess the first step is to release the air chambers. Virginia is in a warm trend and we have had a 60 degree day .I didn't think ice is the problem. What are the next steps

I have a 1994 m1079 and it great for snow removal. But tire chain and air chamber don't mix, so I need a front air chamber for the left rear axle.

Is it physically damaged? Cage it the bolts should be on brackets. Unless you are good with spring brakes I suggest paying a heavy truck shop to fix it. Spring brakes can be very dangerous.

Fix one thing and find a new problem

Hi Suprmam
I have a 1995 m1083 it is the one that has the bad wire going to the regulator. The cab goes up and down the suspension goes up and down , the spare tire starts up but stops. Two men on the spare tire pushing, the third person hand pumping it still stops about one foot into the process. So we pushed the spare tire up and put a 4x4 under the tire to check the wiring. So on my 1994 m1079 the wiring going to the regulator is not hot when the truck is not running. After the truck starts, the wiring 12 and 24 become hot..On the 1083 under the spare tire all the wires are hot all the time, batteries side and truck side.so if I connect new wires aswe have discussed ...will that harm the reg.or run down the batteries

The m1079 has the heater and brake problem.The last snow in Virginia I drove this truck for 30 hours doing snow removal. I let the*truck warm up for a hour but there was No*heat to start. Afterr 2 hour it was so hot I had to open a window.4 hours later the heat stopped again. It was 9 degree out side my boot was frozen to the floor board.

The over flow tank is still full of antifreeze. YES the air chamber is damaged and laying in the back of the truck. I need a replacement. Do you know were I can find one

I have my truck hooked up with the regulator hot with no issue. You can tap off switched power under the panel if you wanted but it's more work. What air chamber? Maybe your engine fan is stuck on. Low voltage can cause that. Is the heater blower working? Maybe the coolant feed lines are getting pinched when the cab is down. You can peek at them thru the front grill. I have seen them get pinched before. They would need some minor repositioning.

On 2/4/16 you ask me if the brake air chamber was physically damaged ? my answers is yes and where can I get one ?

I can tap off the switched power under the panel . Is this the panel in the cab we have talk about ?

Post a pic so I know exactly which one I will see if I have one. The breaker panel on the right dash. Under are wires. You can pick 2 to tap off off that are switched with the dash switch.

After a year, yesterday was the first time I drove my m1083. .I have a temporary connection from the alternator 24v side of the regulator to the breaker panel (ONLY ONE BAD WIRE)but this location is hot all the time. So the question is, where can I find a 24v connection that is only hot when the key is on.

Fuel solenoid and come around the engine to the regulator.

The heater valve on this truck is the same as a HMMWV, mine didn't work because the cable was kinked so bad it damaged the cable. The heater valve was fine...once you remove the cover, you can manually work the valve to turn on and off the flow of water. I ended up replaceing the cable. The cables I have seen on epay. As well, I have seen the heater switch too.

I was mistaken about the regulator 12 and 24 volt connections in the past. I had thought there was a 12 and 24 volt regulation connection. This is not the case. The regulator has 2 posts AC and 24 volt regulation. The 24 volt connection is just that. The AC is actually an AC voltage output off the alternator. I spoke with a niehoff engineer about this. It can be used to drive a tach or other accessory. I don't know why it's even hooked up on the lmtv and the engineer couldn't give me an answer to that. It won't let me go in and edit my previous post. The regulator divides the 24 volt input to achieve 12 volt regulation.