What have you done to your MKT this week???

scootr14 said:

(Disregard my post, you've already done it) Be sure and measure all 4 jacks. I found out that I have 2 different sizes of square heads on my MKT. One is 1" square tubing, I'm not sure what the other size is.

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Check both sides of the jack (inside and outside). You will probably find the 'other size' on the inside side. And a 24mm 12 point socket seems to work on either of the two sizes I've encountered.

SCSG-G4 said:

Check both sides of the jack (inside and outside). You will probably find the 'other size' on the inside side. And a 24mm 12 point socket seems to work on either of the two sizes I've encountered.

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Now you tell me!! I've already made a separate crank for the other size lug. lol.

Made breakfast and lunch on the MKT. The 15/16 square socket worked perfectly for the jacks. Used my Scepter adapter and hose to refill the MBU's, but seems to only work when I almost took the cap off, maybe the seal isn't opening as "automatically" as it claims on the data plate.

Banana pancakes. I used a pizza flipper (peel) because the pancake was so big, but requested by the wife to be an "uncle Buck" pancake.



And the hamburgers



Great day with family and friends on a gorgeous Colorado spring day. The MKT did wonderful as usual.

therooster2001 said:

Used my Scepter adapter and hose to refill the MBU's, but seems to only work when I almost took the cap off, maybe the seal isn't opening as "automatically" as it claims on the data plate.

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Depends on which 'adapter' you have. Ones I have come with a small ball valve that has to be opened to prevent a vacuum. Others are meant to be upside down (but those are not meant for fueling MBU's). There is at least one other type that I've seen.

Took the travel covers and roof canopy off to make it easier to work on. I'm replacing the old canvas roof canopy with vinyl ones. I'm also swapping stuff from the old one to the new one. I noticed that the corner blocks have a lot of gap between them and the cabinets. Should I take the time to move them closer to the cabinets??
Most of the roof vent housing have big gaps in them and some jammed when I tried to lower them. They went up just fine but did not want to come back down. It looks like to take them apart all the way I'll need to take them off the roof. Any one here take them apart? Any tips?

I walked by mine on the way into the house...and realized that I really need to open it up this Friday and ensure that everything is ready for the Denton rally next week...

SCSG-G4 said:

Depends on which 'adapter' you have. Ones I have come with a small ball valve that has to be opened to prevent a vacuum. Others are meant to be upside down (but those are not meant for fueling MBU's). There is at least one other type that I've seen.

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Mine is the one pictured. It has a red cap and a small rotatable black knob on the other.

Couple of things to check.
1). How much fuel in the fuel can?
2). Is the gasket in the fuel adapter cap fully seated?
3). Did you try re-fueling another MBU, or does the same thing happen?
4). Check the air compressors on the MBU's that will not re-fuel, ensure they are functional.

Good luck, hope that helps

John

25thIDAirAssault said:

Couple of things to check.
1). How much fuel in the fuel can?
2). Is the gasket in the fuel adapter cap fully seated?
3). Did you try re-fueling another MBU, or does the same thing happen?
4). Check the air compressors on the MBU's that will not re-fuel, ensure they are functional.

Good luck, hope that helps

John

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1. FULL! probably 4.5 gal (so there is some air space)
2. Yes.
3. Same thing, different MBU
4. Compressors seem fine as they light and function.

Both fueled fine when the cap was off with the hose in the diesel, leading me to believe that this is a suction / vacuum thing on the cap. I even put the scepter on the MKT deck to see if it was a height and head pressure issue. No difference.

It definitely says that the valve will auto open and close on the tag. I still think that's the issue. The other item to note is that my scepters do not have the vent tube on the inside (red arrow), but shouldn't affect anything but volume when pouring, as the hole is still not blocked when on a flat surface (and doesn't affect anything when using the high volume spout). I am wondering if on the drawing below if the cap is overtight and the hole is being blocked (orange arrow) or the vent is not being as automatic as I want. I only fueled two MBU's, which is about all that the scepter could hold, so will have to burn some more diesel or fill the others to check it. I'll mess with it a bit more and report back.



And that pict is not my actual scepter can, just a pict I swiped, so no, I am not using red holders for diesel, or have weird statues in my house.

I just pour mine in much faster.

therooster2001 said:

It definitely says that the valve will auto open and close on the tag. I still think that's the issue.

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The ones I have come equipped with a valve that is manually moved where your little red 'automatic' valve is located. They work fine. You may want to remove (unscrew) yours and get a replacement with a manual valve.

I bought these two smaller pots for the MKT, those big pots are just too big sometimes, often. They were $5 each at a yard sale, they were almost black when I got them a little Purple Power and a power washing made them presentable!

As long as they fit in the M-59 pot cradles, you are golden! I'm usually cooking for a crowd, so the larger pots get a workout.

I love that you cleaned up those pots, and got them for $5. I love the reuse. It inspired me to clean up my M59 cradles. They were a bit rusty, as they are older (from 1968!), but are totally serviceable and I green padded and 0000 steel wooled them, then hit them up with some apple cider vinegar to neutralize the rust. I wasn't able to submerge it, but they came out pretty good. I am wondering if I should prep them any better (get it down to zero rust), and then using high temp grill paint on them to seal them up, or just paint them. Thoughts?

Well, I ended using Prep and etch phosphoric acid, then used some grill paint. DONE!

I plan on using the smaller pots on the griddle to let things simmer, aluminum on aluminum should be OK?

Aluminum on aluminum should be fine.


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I took my MKT85 to the Denton, NC, MV gathering last week.
Replaced the light bulbs with LED units.
Fed a bunch of people... (including one of my really big fans from a local jeep club that helps me with the Graves Mountain Trailrides and Rally)

Found out that one of the folding tables that I take to events to put sale items on fits nicely between the stairs for condiments, cold drinks, etc. (I have a really nice set of surplus stainless steel mess tables, but the plastic topped one from Sam's was already loaded in the XM813...).

This weekend, I'll open it up and repair a busted hinge on one of the cabinet doors (one closest to the range units). It looks like it should be a case of replacing pop rivets...

Nice to see one get utilized, also it looks like a good collection of military vehicles! Always been partial to M37s

Khloe is really growing up! And, yes, the pop rivets will fix the hinge problem. Get the ones that are LONG, as there is some fairly thick metal to set them through (ones that can 'grip' on 3/8" thickness or more).