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Thread: Just bought a FLU 419!!!

  1. #51
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    northern nh
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    My property in NH is quite steep and wet in spots as the road is a low spot in the hillside. I know my local mountains in NH are molehills in Colorado but four of the five highest mountains in New England are literally right across the street. Ours are lower as the valleys are around 900 to 1000 ASL with the summits around at or just below 6000 feet so they do stick up out of the surroundings. The difference for me is I can pull off a paved road onto my lot while it sound likes yours is way out in the boonies. The soils are mostly glacial till, basically rocks with ground up rocks filling the gaps between them with thin topsoil growing between them and northern hardwood trees growing on top of it.

    I have gotten mine stuck trying to go up the steep logging road that zig zags up the side my hill. I think the weight of the backhoe transfers most of the weight to the rear wheels when going up a steep hill. When I get on rocks, the wheels are all turning at one speed but it will not go uphill, the tires just spin on the rocks and it just slides sideways and then starts to rotate off the road. I believe the solution is ring type skidder chains for all four tires. They are on my list for this year. Not cheap but without better traction for going uphill I cant get to a lot of my land. When the property was logged years ago they did it with skidder with chains so I expect that's what I need to do. Maybe you may want to wait to buy a pair but might want to keep an eye out for some. I did try backing up this slope to more equally shift the center of gravity and made it up farther but its nothing I really want to try to full time. Looking at various youtube videos with Mogs used for logging they all have chains and I think I know why.

    I have already inadvertently pinned the inclinometer on the dash to one side and am amazed I didn't dump it on its side. Its a capable beast but the laws of gravity still apply

    My two are buried in snow and just about when the snow is clear they slap a load ban on the side roads until the frost melts out so mine don't get much use until mid to late april.
    Last edited by peakbagger; 02-13-2018 at 16:21.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance (for now)

  2. #52
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    Storm Mountain Colorado
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    Lol. I know about pegging the inclinometer. I have done that also. It's puckering moment. Front left tire was off the ground and we were teetering. I grew up on the east coast. You can have the mud!! My trails are all rock and wood and sand. But I'm also at 8500 feet. So the snow will be here till about the same time. Mid April I'll be lucky to get there.

  3. #53
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    Peakbagger, starting the air system, but want to ask a specific question. The bleed off blows every few seconds above 1000rpm, but the main tank isn't filling or takes about 20 minutes till the light goes off. There's a clogged line I'm chasing first, would that symptom correlate with the top transfer line to the main tank you mentioned earlier? And it basically won't go above 60 on the gauge, so it barely shifts in and out of 4x4 and locked. Been doing a lot to it before I take it up the mountain. Another month or two and it's gonna be a happy machine!!! How's the mud back there? My buddy says your getting some NorEasters.

  4. #54
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    northern nh
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    Hard to diagnose remotely. It sounds like you need to spend some time on the air regulator and work your way from there. I had similar issues with mine. I started by rigging up an air pressure gauge to the main air line and confirmed that I had plenty of pressure coming from the engine and then cleaned out the alcohol injector (which was full of dirt). I then pulled the air pressure regulator and it was pretty nasty inside. I elected to buy a new one from Expedition Imports but other folks have found the same regulator on Ebay by searching for part numbers (there is post somewhere on this forum). I think rebuild kits are available somewhere but I didn't look extensively. I think they used two different regulators on the SEE. The one shown in the parts manual blowup shows a strainer on the inlet. Mine didn't have one and there was lot of crap in it and some corrosion. The cross body air line must have rotted out at some point and the hack military fix was to use 1/4" copper tubing and lots of teflon tape to get it to seal. I replaced with proper metric copper nickel tubing using the right fittings. In the process of replacing it I broke one of the fittings over at the air tank trying to break a fitting loose and that is when I decided to take much of the piping apart on that side of the truck.

    The air fittings in this system are bit of nightmare as they are mix of metric AN fittings and Metric straight threads. I picked up a metric pitch gauge and had a set of calipers so I got to learn how to identify the various types and sizes. Some of them appear to be cast aluminum and dont take any torque so you need to be careful to get a wrench on them to take the torque. There is not a lot of clearance in that area to get a crescent wrench in there. I have had bad experiences with the Chinese jumbo metric wrench sets being quite "sloppy" so I actually ordered up individual Craftsman large size wrenches that tend to have tighter tolerances. That really helped for taking the air system apart. I found crap in a couple of the check valves and in the air tanks and emptied them out. Do note that the SEE doesnt have air brakes but it does have an air brake system and that adds a lot of complexity to the system. I expect if someone wanted to they could simply the system.

    Some folks have backfed the air system via the glad hands connectors at the front and rear of the truck. I havent done it but expect it might be good way to chase air leaks with the engine not running. I would like to clean out more of the air system but in order to get to it I need to tilt the cab and since everything is working I am holding off until I need to do it.

    In my opinion unless the SEE came directly out of a rebuild with zero miles, I strongly recommend going through the air system as it impacts so many systems its not worth taking the risk. Anyone who doesn't is just setting themselves up for numerous future issues as the crap breaks loose and gets in expensive and hard to access systems. I think its a pretty indicative sign that the German Military specified the optional air dryer system on the 1300 series that were in production at the same time as the SEE. I have seen comments that it makes a big difference in the air system longevity. I have the parts to switch my SEE over but haven't installed the yet.

    I had bare ground in some spots three weeks ago and was thinking about putting the batteries in the Unimogs. I have gotten about 3 feet of snow since then. It could make for an epic spring run off and mud season.
    Last edited by peakbagger; 03-18-2018 at 07:17.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance (for now)

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