M1078/M1079 for overland camper?

I realized the M1080 is the bare LMTV. Weight is 13,200 vs 16,700 for 1078. 3500 lbs for the bed. Wow!

Juskatla said:

Can I drive it through Canada to get to Alaska without border “export” problems?

If its properly registered in your name and insured, you shouldn't have any issue with getting into Canada, either direction. As a privately owned MV, that you plan to bring back into the US, its shouldn't be any different than any other vehicles of the thousands that make the trek every year. Leaving the US shouldn't be any different but worth a check. One word of caution, if you plan to bring firearms, be sure to check into the required paperwork long before going and leave the handguns at home. More than a few vacations into Canada have been spoiled because they 'forgot' about their handguns after being asked. They do check and it could make you inadmissible to Canada if any are located. Our laws are different than in the US on firearms. Most people I know will just ship them to Alaska rather than deal with the paperwork for the long guns.

You can find more than you want to know about all this at the CBSA website. Have a great trip whenever you go. http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/menu-eng.html

Here's the firearms import link... http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/import/iefw-iefa-eng.html

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Thanks for the clarification Juskatla. I read a bunch of info in the link you posted. I looks like we will likely do fine going through with the truck, but I'll continue to read up about it.

Thanks,
Michael

scottreb said:

Any chance you guys are going to weigh the truck without the bed? Curious to see how much one weighs.

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scottreb said:

I realized the M1080 is the bare LMTV. Weight is 13,200 vs 16,700 for 1078. 3500 lbs for the bed. Wow!

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Weighing it would be interesting, but we have it a bit torn apart right now. I'm not sure how I would get it to a truck scale. We've been removing little things from it that we don't need like the lift beams, and the suspension squat system. It would be interesting to know what it weights right now though.

Michael

Someone on the forum came by and picked up the truck bed on Friday. They picked it up with their M931A2, so it was nice to check out another MV. It was a cool truck. Thanks guys! It was very nice to meet you. I hope it works well for your project.

I haven't been posting much, but my wife and I have been making good progress working on the truck in general. We've been trying to spend an hour or so every evening working on it.

We worked on the passenger side front tire leak today. It was leaking because the stem tube was bent and the end of the stem was a bit messed up. We've had the front axle on jack stands for the last week or so. We need to move the truck sometime soon, so we ended up just putting a Schrader valve in the end of the brass stem for the time being. We plan to rebuild the wheels later, so we can put in new valve stems at that time.

I did a check of driveshaft slop. The rear driveshaft seems nice and stiff. I need to do the test per the TM, but at first glance, I think the front driveshaft might need replaced. Where could I get a new one? Suprman do you by any chance have a good used one?

Michael

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The u-joints all feel nice and tight. The bearings on the differential and the transfer case all feel good too. Its vertical play in the driveshaft from slop in the splines that allow the driveshaft to change length with suspension travel. I need to take one of my dial indicator to the truck and quantify the slop, but it feels significant. I know this is one of those important "driveshaft hinging inspection" vibration failure topics. I'll measure the slop tomorrow, but the TM seems to indicate that the assembly might need to be replaced, but it would be nice if only sub parts need replaced.



Michael

We did the driveshaft hinging inspection tonight per TM 9-2320-365-20-3.

-AFT driveshaft hinging play was 0.007 in
-Forward driveshaft hinging play was 0.037 in

The TM has the max limit as 0.020 in. Anyone know the best place to get a new FWD driveshaft assembly?

Thanks,
Michael

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I believe the military had them rebuilt

Probably cheaper to have a driveshaft shop just build you one.

I have to believe that the original one can be rebuilt. Any used one is going to have some play. Making a whole new one sounds expensive.

scottreb said:

Probably cheaper to have a driveshaft shop just build you one.

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There are shops that do that, and just that?

Is that common?

Driveshaft shops can do custom work. Common for race cars or modded street cars. The lmtv is a different creature. Done wrong and you can have disasterous results. If the slip joint has slop I'm pretty sure it can be rebuilt and the shop can check and balance while they have it.

Suprman said:

Driveshaft shops can do custom work. Common for race cars or modded street cars. The lmtv is a different creature. Done wrong and you can have disasterous results. If the slip joint has slop I'm pretty sure it can be rebuilt and the shop can check and balance while they have it.

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YUP YUP...... Been there broke that. take copies of sections of TM relevant to Specs. The tolerances expected on these are more stringent than a typical truck so don't give them any room to assume it's like any other truck they've worked on.

Suprman said:

Driveshaft shops can do custom work. Common for race cars or modded street cars. The lmtv is a different creature. Done wrong and you can have disasterous results. If the slip joint has slop I'm pretty sure it can be rebuilt and the shop can check and balance while they have it.

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You need to find a shop that works on truck drivelines

LostInTheWorld said:

We did the driveshaft hinging inspection tonight per TM 9-2320-365-20-3.

-AFT driveshaft hinging play was 0.007 in
-Forward driveshaft hinging play was 0.037 in

The TM has the max limit as 0.020 in. Anyone know the best place to get a new FWD driveshaft assembly?

Thanks,
Michael

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Where in central California are you located?

Thanks for all the input guys. It would be awesome if I could just take it to a reliable shop and get it rebuilt, but I really worry that they wouldn't do it right. It would be a real bummer if it wasn't done right, and it came apart on the highway sometime.

I've been looking around for a NOS option, but no luck yet. I agree with you Suprman that a used one is going to have some play. I suppose it all depends on the specific used one I got. I'd be happy with one that has less than 0.010 in play like my AFT driveshaft.

I'd totally be happy taking it to a driveline shop if I had very high confidence that they would rebuild it right....

Michael

I spent some time looking for a replacement NOS FWD driveshaft assembly. I looked at TM 9-2320-365-24P, 131-1 and the FWD driveshaft is listed as P/N 483-49-050-145. I sent out inquiries to a number of shops and suppliers. I got several replies back saying that P/N 483-49-050-145 has been superseded by P/N 983-92-49-496 and that the new P/N is available for about $500-ish. I also found that the P/N database lists the new P/N 983-92-49-496 as “C-Advisory Reference”. I guess I was maybe expecting it to be “D-Advisory Reference” because of the “D” stamp on my data plate, but maybe it’s unrelated to that. The new P/N is listed as a driveshaft assembly for “truck, cargo (5TON fmtv) and mrap”

I wanted to double check the numbers, so:

I looked up the NSN for the original part number (P/N 483-49-050-145) on google and I got:
NSN: 2520-01-545-0390
NSN: 2520-01-478-7612
NSN: 2320-01-447-3884

I looked up the NSN for the new part number (P/N 983-92-49-496) on google and I got:
NSN: 2520-01-478-7612
NSN: 2320-01-447-3884

I was surprised that there are so many NSN numbers for these assemblies, but the NSN numbers do seem to overlap for the old and new assemblies.
assembly
At that point, I thought I was all ready to go with the new driveshaft, but I asked for a photo of the specific one I would purchase. It’s hard to totally tell from the photo, but the tube diameter doesn’t really look like my driveshaft. My old driveshaft has a 4 inch diameter tube, but the new P/N assembly appears to have a smaller tube. I asked for tube and overall length measurements, and they said they would get back to me tomorrow, so that should clear up some things.

I’m spooked by the idea of putting the wrong assembly in and having it fail, so I want to be cautions on this.

I’m posting this for a few reasons. I thought it might be helpful to others, and I was hoping you guys could double check me on these numbers. Also, I guess I’m a little confused about the “D” and “C” upgrades. Have there been upgrades to the driveshafts after the LMTV fleet got the “D” upgrade? Did they upgrade the driveshaft for the M1078A1 and MRAP. Is that what this new P/N is? If so, should I use it?

Thanks,
Michael

Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the slip joint area might be thicker on the green one.

Give these guys a call http://www.highangledriveline.com/default.htm