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FLU419 transmission question

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
If it doesn't leak so badly that it comes out faster than you can fill it, just add to the level plug and call it done.

Okay, so I don't remember. But where in NM are you?
 

Bluewater1104

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I'm in bluew
If it doesn't leak so badly that it comes out faster than you can fill it, just add to the level plug and call it done.

Okay, so I don't remember. But where in NM are you?
If it doesn't leak so badly that it comes out faster than you can fill it, just add to the level plug and call it done.

Okay, so I don't remember. But where in NM are you?
I'm in bluewater New Mexico
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Okay, too far to drive a FLU over here, but not all that far with a road worthy vehicle, either.

Post some pics, would you, and maybe give me/us an idea of what you expect to do with your SEE.
Have you started reading the lengthy but very informative "Owners" thread yet?
 

Bluewater1104

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Okay, too far to drive a FLU over here, but not all that far with a road worthy vehicle, either.

Post some pics, would you, and maybe give me/us an idea of what you expect to do with your SEE.
Have you started reading the lengthy but very informative "Owners" thread yet?
No a link to the thread would be awesome I'll post pics tomorrow
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Strong hint, download the operations manual and read it. Next go through the operational inspections and lube routines. Unimogs are built quite heavy duty but only if they are maintained. Definitely drain the portal axles and refill them with the appropriate gear oil. Make sure you understand what the level plus is ans the fill plug.
 

Watchman7

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Alaska
One of the things you should also check before tipping the cab and diving into that project is the shifter bushing. It is the bushing that the shifter rides in and they do deteriorate with time causing the shifter to sit to low in the collar and then the shifter doesn't engage the shifter forks properly. You can get to it by pulling up on the rubber boot housing from inside the cab and then from the side sticking your hands in through the passenger side it will have a metal collar the detents down and putting downward pressure and turning it I think counterclockwise and it will let you release the shifter (BTW you need to disconnect the 3 airlines for downshift lever if you want to pull it completely out). You should have two guide pins on the inside of the transmission collar and they have to be removed to get the bushing out. Hope it helps

I have the same issue with my MOG, starts up by not going forward, do you know where the thread is located on this forum that tells you with pics how to replace the bushings without tilting the cab? I found it a few months back and not able to find it now. Thank you. I remember it to be a very long post.
 

Speedwoble

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New Holland, PA
I have the same issue with my MOG, starts up by not going forward, do you know where the thread is located on this forum that tells you with pics how to replace the bushings without tilting the cab? I found it a few months back and not able to find it now. Thank you. I remember it to be a very long post.
You posted in it. Go back one page.
 

jeanmaurice

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Yorktown VA
I have the same issue with my MOG, starts up by not going forward, do you know where the thread is located on this forum that tells you with pics how to replace the bushings without tilting the cab? I found it a few months back and not able to find it now. Thank you. I remember it to be a very long post.
Hello Coolhandmatt, I have just joined the 419 club, and after about 25 miles, my shifter became wobbly and will not go in to 2nd and goes poorly into the other gears. I can still drive it but it is obviously not right. I am basically in the same predicament as Watchman7 above.
I think that I too have a bushing problem. Of course, I should like to fix it without tipping the cab which seems like an ordeal. Are there any pictures available showing this procedure? And do you have to disconnect the three air lines to change the bushing. I can't even figure out how to disconnect these lines. It seems that you have to have small dexterous hands to do this. I did go ahead and order the bushing from TI

Your thread from 2016----I was only able to access this thru goggle search as it is no longer in the steel soldiers thread. And is there a TM that addresses this issue?
Thanks for you help.
Maurice (jeanmaurice)
 

jeanmaurice

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Yorktown VA
Ok thank you guys, Coolhandmatt especially. I went thru the threads and figured out how to change the bushing. It runs, shifts great now. I don't have much to add except that is was not that hard, just intimidating for a newby. To get the final cap back on I had to have my son do it from the drivers side and I helped twist it from the passenger side--outside. Wheww.

Also, when putting the bushing in I ground a very slight groove in the sides of the bushing as there is two small protrusions on the inside sleeve where the bushing slides in- base of bushing down. It slid down fairly easily after this.
 

319cssb

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Location
Easley SC
About to tackle the shifter bushing.
Are there any updated hints on how to get the collar off? I’m considering using a large wrench (large enough to get around the shifter) and a pry bar to push down on it and put tension on the spring. I bought some 16” channel pliers. I hope I won’t have to use those, and if that I won’t mess up the collar when I try to turn it counterclockwise.
 

Speedwoble

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Location
New Holland, PA
About to tackle the shifter bushing.
Are there any updated hints on how to get the collar off? I’m considering using a large wrench (large enough to get around the shifter) and a pry bar to push down on it and put tension on the spring. I bought some 16” channel pliers. I hope I won’t have to use those, and if that I won’t mess up the collar when I try to turn it counterclockwise.
I don’t recall needing tools to get the collar off. The challenge was accessing it. I did need tools to get the pins out.
 

319cssb

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Location
Easley SC
I tried to tackle this project today. Everything went ok until I tried to get the new sleeves in. SEEnebraska mentioned an interference fit.
1404C3BD-E57B-4C68-ACA6-31D560EB3E3A.jpeg
So I’m wondering how he’s overcome this interference fit. Someone else mentioned the pins ‘walked out ‘ and he used vice grips to push them back in. Are mine protruding a lot? And I should try and push them in the sleeve more?
FB0B658E-874B-4CCB-B5C9-7E2F9E1FD1DF.jpeg
 

319cssb

Well-known member
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Location
Easley SC
To answer my own question: pushed in the rollers to make flush with the round case. Then I filed it with a needle file to remove any burrs and such. Made sure the pin fit in before putting the bushing in the transmission. A good piece of advice is to mark the location of the holes on the top of the bushing with a magic marker. This way you can line up the hole to the roller pin in the transmission better. I had to use some red grease. Once that bushing is in it needs to be lined up perfectly. As it won’t come out in one piece again.
 
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