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Thread: FLU419 transmission question

  1. #31
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    Welcome to the group, I'm in Dallas GA and use my 419 weekly. Let me know if I can be of any help.

  2. #32
    Corporal msharky007's Avatar
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    Good Evening,

    I recently purchased a 1987 419 SEE, however when trying to drive it in hi range the transmission or ? locks the wheels up like a mild skid I guess you can say. You can drive it in low range all day long. Do you think this bushing could be my issue? I have no abnormal noises. Thank you all in advance.

  3. #33
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    My 1989 FLU-419 lost all odd numbered gears after being difficult to shift for some time. I assume it's the shifter bushing everyone speaks of.

    A couple things I need from my fellow Unimog brothers.

    1) I found the part for 13 bucks - But they want like 14 to ship it. It's a matter of principle that it doesn't cost that much to ship. Anyone have a Promo code for free shipping for this supplier?
    https://expedition-imports.com/3102680035

    2) For those of you who have suffered the pain of changing out this bushing... Could you please make a youtube video describing the process? I am sure you don't want to go out and re-monkey around with the cab area... But even a white board drawing would help our us newbies.

    In exchange for one of you guys making this video... you can checkout the video I made on how to clean/rebuild the air brake regulator for the FLU-419 here:

  4. #34
    Corporal expeditionimports's Avatar
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    If you are looking for cheaper shipping.......make sure to select SHOW USPS RATES and select that option. In cases like this if we can fit in a flat rate priority we will and usually will drop the shipping as low as possible prior to capturing the funds. Or you could just put a couple things together all at once and save on the shipping.

  5. #35
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    Replacing the shifter bushing fixed the problem. There was hardly any old bushing left. Took about an hour. I did not remove the airlines.

    1.. Pull boot up from rubber deck boot.
    2. Loosen 4 bolts for the rubber deck boot and move down.
    3. Push down and counter clockwise on the cap holding shifter in place
    4. Theres a spring retainer, slide up. OD paint may make it difficult
    5. Pull up...should pop out.. Inspect for damage.
    6. Clean out hole of old bushing ( see pic)
    7. Put a cloth in hole and remove 2 pins. Dont let them drop in the tranny.
    8. One of the pins has a small E-Clip...
    9. Clean hole...grease bushing and install
    10. Reinstall pins in side. Smaller drivers...fatter passenger
    11. Grease ball of shifter and slide in....firmly. it will pop in...if you don't feel it pop its not down and you wont be able to fet the retainer cup down.
    12. Push spring cap down then follow with retaining cup...line up with pins and push down hard and clockwise. Make sure its all the way engaged. (Make sure the shifter peg is in the hole...centered.) Im not sure if its possible to get this wrong but Im sure some have tried.

    Pull deck boot up and tighten tab bolts to cab(4ea)
    Push boot down and into place.

    Your done....take for drive.

  6. #36
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    Anybody know if the Fwd/Reverse lever has the same shift bushing?

  7. #37
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    i just did the bushing fix last night. when i bought the SEE i was not able to find 3rd or 4th gear before the truck would slow down to the point that i would need to go back into 1st anyways. everything is tight and works as it should now.

    i did all of this just removing the round shift boot and worked through that 6" hole. mine had a second boot that is hose clamped to the transmission. i was able to pull both boots up and out of the way to see down to the transmission. I did not remove the large tunnel cover plate.

    try to clean up as much crud as possible before popping the shifter out but ultimately i think some will end up in the transmission because a lot of junk was under the covers. you have to pull pretty hard to get it to pop out, but as long as you've removed the compression cover like described in previous posts, it should come out.
    IMG_20181028_214420385.jpgIMG_20181028_214457814.jpg

    next up is the remove the pins. BOTH pins have a small circlip that is pretty much impossible to get off the correct way. once the shifter is installed, the pins won't be able to fall out so i decided to just pop the pins out and let the clips fly.
    IMG_20181028_220806294.jpg


    remove whats left of old bushing and clean up as much as possible.
    IMG_20181028_220753466(1).jpgIMG_20181028_223844079.jpg

    install new bushing. this was by far the hardest part for me. there are some small protrusions where the pins go which cause an interference to the bushing during assembly. once the bushing is forced in all the way, the protrusions will fit into the holes in the bushing to eliminate the interference.

    IMG_20181028_225249102.jpg

    i coated the inside of the bushing with a red lithium grease. hopefully that is compatible with the bushing material...

    i have some wear on the shifter due to it riding too low in the transmission. shouldn't be a problem now that the bushing is holding it up at the correct height.

    IMG_20181028_225434693.jpg

    second hardest part is to reinstall the compression cover. i noticed it was easiest when i shift into 2nd gear because that lines the shifter up at a vertical orientation relative to the transmission. i was able to get both hands through the small opening from the cab and use all my weight to compress teh spring and give it a slight twist to catch the pins.
    IMG_20181028_231327458.jpg

    hope the picture help the next guy...

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to SeeNebraska For This Useful Post:

    Pinsandpitons (10-30-2018), The FLU farm (10-30-2018)

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