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M1082

FloridaAKM

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Mine now has a tan 5 ton top on it that I got for $20.00 NOS, plus 74 - 81mm mortar cans & 68 - 120mm mortar cans. So that means storage for me too, completely full.
 

tennmogger

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The brakes on my M-1082 stick after sitting 12 hours or longer. As long as there is only a few hours between uses, no sticking, but let it sit overnight and the brakes are locked. Driving reverse then forward a few cycles frees them and no problems for the day.

Both stick, but neither drags, so I don't think it's an adjustment problem.

Any ideas?

I can live with the issue as long as they free up as easy as they do. However, I parked the trailer in my daughters yard, came back to retrieve it after a rainy spell, and got stuck before the brakes freed. Embarrassing, and I'm still working on her yard :)

There's a dropoff on the lower side. The cable is to the winch that pulled everything back up the hill (U1300 Unimog).

Stuck in yard.jpg



Patracy, here's what I use mine for:
 

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NDT

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Camp Wood/LC, TX
The brakes on my M-1082 stick after sitting 12 hours or longer. As long as there is only a few hours between uses, no sticking, but let it sit overnight and the brakes are locked. Driving reverse then forward a few cycles frees them and no problems for the day.

Both stick, but neither drags, so I don't think it's an adjustment problem.

Any ideas?:
I have a trailer that has a restriction in the emergency line (bug nest?). It takes about 10 minutes for the prime mover to fill the trailer tank sufficiently to release the spring brakes.
 

tennmogger

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That makes more sense than anything I have thought of. I have never given it that long before trying to drive. Will test it, thanks.
 

FloridaAKM

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Location
Gainesville, Florida
Another trick that will keep your shoes from sticking if you have to leave it parked for an extended period of time is to fully air up the brake system with the trailer connected. Make sure your wheels are chocked first & then install the caging bolts into the spring brakes canister, tighten the caging bolts down a couple of turns extra after the initial install & your brake shoes should not rust lock to the drums. If you have any of those "Remove Before Flight Ribbons", put them on the air system to remind you to remove the caging bolts before use. It works for me on the M1081 & M1082 I own.
 

Gunzy

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Roy, Utah
I pull my M1082 with my HEMTT. I got it to replace 2 M105s that I couldn't see behind the HEMTT and were very difficult to back with it. The M1082 is great, easy to back up and I can see it when rolling even if I can't feel it. Has anyone found a source for the sway bar bushings? I need the ones the bar passes through at the bottom of the link. I am going to contact BAE after the 1st of the year but don't expect they'll want to sell me any.
26804498_10208278692605408_3955820071115868408_n.jpg26815428_10208278692205398_698054634124553123_n.jpg
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Gray, GA
I pull my M1082 with my HEMTT. I got it to replace 2 M105s that I couldn't see behind the HEMTT and were very difficult to back with it. The M1082 is great, easy to back up and I can see it when rolling even if I can't feel it. Has anyone found a source for the sway bar bushings? I need the ones the bar passes through at the bottom of the link. I am going to contact BAE after the 1st of the year but don't expect they'll want to sell me any.
View attachment 752011View attachment 752012
There is a seller on Ebay, who I think is also also a member here, that is making replacements out of urethane. I think the listings are for LMTVs, but the bushings are the same for the trailers. I replaced mine at the beginning of summer with some of the urethane ones. Try an Ebay search with: LMTV bushing urethane.
 

chucky

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Not saying its the safest thing ive ever seen done but you can take a pintle hitch a baccking plate and long grade 8 bolts and install hitch on bumper bar of first trailer then hook up and dont get in a rush and just cage the second trailer
 
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