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fuel filter change

gcbennet

Member
221
6
18
Location
Trenton, ON
Not a fun job because it's in a poor location for access. The unit level maint TM book 2 (3-32) has everything you need to know.
 

Mike82ndABN

New member
223
10
0
Location
Tampa/Florida
when i ordered my fuel filter it came with directions on a small piece of paper.

theres 3 bolts up top that keep the metal cover on, and an oring on the cover.

it says to drain housing by opening lower bolt, mine has the hose that goes to the remote drain petcock in the wheel well instead of a bolt, so i just opened that up.

change out the filter, change out the water separator.

if you can clean out the inside of the filter housing that is nice too, so you don't suck junk down there.

put it back together.

open bleed screw on top while running to purge air.

i did mine without removing the housing from the truck and with very little mess.
 
Last edited:

rookie

New member
122
1
0
Location
portcharlotte fl
i will get this done as i think im having a problem with my hummer it accelerates whie driving not all the time but once in a while like it gets more diesel and then it goes back to normal. what do u guys think?
 

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,170
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38
Location
Nashville, TN
It could be your filter, but is likely an injector or injection pump issue. If a filter is plugged or has excess water, the engine usually feels like it's stalling out instead of accelerating.
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,288
1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
You might want to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and pop tested. If your running originals they need it by now.

Kurt
 

rookie

New member
122
1
0
Location
portcharlotte fl
I noticed that I have a small diesel leak coming from the pump on my humvee if u are sitting inside the cab and take out the engine cover and u look down the valley of the motor it will be from the right side of the pump it looks like a plunger when u accelerate it goes in then out. Any ideas? What are my options
 

Hkx3

New member
90
1
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
You might want to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and pop tested. If your running originals they need it by now.

Kurt
I don't understand this type of post. All it typically does is create doubt, worry, and extra work for someone else. People 'trust' these forums, since usually they know more than the person cruising through here.

How do you know how old his injectors are? How do you know how old his truck is? How do you know the last time it underwent maint. or servicing?

Don't just toss a blanket over the world. Maybe his truck was fully serviced and 'rebuilt' just before being sold. I know mine was. Mine had a ton of new parts, some still had the little labels on them that hadnt seen water yet.
 

tage

Active member
679
67
28
Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
while you're in there. ^^
i would ignore that. if it's not broken....

Look online. there's a cartoon tech tip for fuel filter replacement. KISS principle using a 10 harbor freight hand vacuum pump.
 

Lionel

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
498
24
18
Location
Baltimore/ MD
You don't say what engine its on, but I had a 6.5 doing the same thing. Bad enough it would fill the valley with fuel and you could follow me everywhere. What a mess. Turned out to be the torx screws holding the cover plate on the lower right side of the IP. Had to use an inspection scope to see it spurting out while the engine was running. There's no room down there so I ground down the proper size torx bit (to about half its length) and was able to turn it with a small box wrench while holding the back side of the bit with a flat screwdriver. Never had another issue after that. It was an easy fix.
 

tage

Active member
679
67
28
Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
Depends how bad the leak. If it's a drop every now and then. Well it personally wouldn't bother me. It's diesel not gasoline. However, that's a really bad way to look at it.
You can try the method lionel. Just tighten the ip casing bolts. Sometimes works, other times it does not. You can also run biodiesel sometimes red diesel to swell the seals. ULSD is just **** on old seals. I have done very basic IP re-sealing with viton seals. If it's not on the case I will send them off to get rebuilt.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
while you're in there. ^^
i would ignore that. if it's not broken....
Look online. there's a cartoon tech tip for fuel filter replacement. KISS principle using a 10 harbor freight hand vacuum pump.
PM Magazine? Your google-fu must be superior to my training, master, I can't find anything of the sort.

You wouldn't happen to have that cartoon handy, would you?

-Grasshopper
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
PM Magazine? Your google-fu must be superior to my training, master, I can't find anything of the sort.

You wouldn't happen to have that cartoon handy, would you?

-Grasshopper
I think this is what you're looking for [page 2, talks about how to properly bleed the filter]: http://psmag.radionerds.com/images/1/1f/PS_Magazine_Issue_596_July_2002.pdf I had to go to the PS Mag DoD website, bring up the index (first 1990-1999, then the 2000+ index) and ran a search in it for "fuel filter." Wrote down the various issues and pages that were in the list, then I just flipped through those issues until I found it. There's many more articles out there about the filters and different sub-topics. I may have overlooked if there were a good one about how to more easily disassemble it for replacement.
 

MaverickH1

Member
345
6
18
Location
Roanoke, VA
My recommendation when changing the fuel filter is to undo the bolts that you can reach on top of the filter first, then undo the bolt that holds the strap around the filter, then go inside the cab and remove the two bolts that hold the strap to the firewall. This frees up the filter housing and makes it easier to move around for clearance to remove the filter.

When reinstalling, I bleed it while it's hanging off the firewall because it's easy to get to, then finger tighten everything that you can reach while it's off the firewall, and then torque down the bolts on the inside of the cab first, strap second, and the bolts on top last.

It's a very frustrating location and orientation, but doing the above makes it workable, in my opinion.
 
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