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Thread: Using my SEE for real work

  1. #41
    Corporal lurkMcGurk's Avatar
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    I cant speak for the customer service FLUfarm but everything is still running well on this end. Well I say everything but I mean as far as the Blue Devil is concerned. I got out to the area I flattened out a few days ago and had some 2-3 inch stone dropped off. I could not get it leveled enough before getting the stone delivered. I tried backdragging before the stone got dropped off with the mog. Backdragging was a bear and to be fair I had a ton of rock and stumpage and very little dirt to work with. Anyhow here is kind of a before without a clear view of the area behind Mog1.

    rocks.JPG
    and here is kind of an after shot after 35 cu yard finished rocks finished.JPG


    So the good news is I had it all flattened and the rocks moved across the area in short order. Kind of a juggling act to hit the pile and curl the bucket before the momentum wanted to choke out the engine but I figured it out in short order. All the while remembering the cartoon about not using the front as a bulldozer!

    This area will be for some log milling and such and wont turn to mud as it should drain nicely.

    All was going well and I was using the 4x4 switch (and making gentle K turns in rev and fwd) and then when I was about done I switched back to 2wd and to do some back dragging and then had some difficulty getting the switch to go back to 4x4. I replaced this switch as it was delivered broken and can only figure I'm probably kicking things loose inside the air lines and gumming up the works. I (like so many before me) will be diving into this in the near future. I drove over to my parking spot and shut everything down and noted this
    leak.JPG from the passenger side rear. I saw this the other day and have checked the brake fluid 4x since and still full. I looked in the sight hole and even added more gear oil but it was already full or only needed a few oz because the excess weeped out the sight hole. It could be brakes or gear I'm not sure. I'm wondering if because (like an idiot) I left the P brake on while repositioning the backhoe the other day I caused some leakage, dunno. Mysteries abound. Most importantly on a flat level surface I was able to engage 4x4 again but after some jostling around and NO diff Lock. I suspect the air system and possible a slow leak in the brakes.

    Mog 2 (Lord Voldemort) needed a 4x4 switch as well and one of the three holes the banjo fittings connect to looked crusty in there. I'm anticipating air line work will be needed here also . It has built pressure once and I do need to change the air release valves on the tanks and possibly a "solenoid? not sure if thats the parts name" for the front hydraulics that may have been leaky in the past. LV came with "significant blow by" from Gov Planet but I presume that was from the Texarkana custom exhaust crimping service down there. Opened it up and the smoke has cleared. found the paperwork and L.Voledemort had a new engine put in just before "Mission Putaway" in 2009. IDK what that means other than new engine,,,and I like that.

    So i'm going to check out this infamous "low spot" in the air lines and see if it was ever replaced or if its clogged. Then I'll do some upstream downstream checks to maybe isolate the problem.
    also need to take the wheel off some time and see where the leak is coming from on Mog1. This will happen with Mog 1 as soon as Ive addressed the issues with Mog 2 / LV. Those issues are a new 4x4 switch "meritor wabco ebay $175" possible a solenoid on the front hydraulics that looks leaky and all the pressure relief valves on the tanks that leak like a sieve. Still not regretting the route I took and have to believe with a Kubota at less than half the HP and more than twice the price id still be moving those rocks.

    All in all I will be prioritizing keeping atleast one running at all times. I really like using this Mog to get real work done and I'm kind of thinking it wants to work as well. Keep you all posted and feel free to send me any info tips or thoughts as you like. Im cruising the threads here as a member and benzworld as a ghost but realize I miss some stuff as it gets posted.
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    Last edited by lurkMcGurk; 08-02-2017 at 09:27.

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  3. #42
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    I don't regret buying a SEE either, which I got because of the backhoe. But on the other hand, I wouldn't want to give up the Kubota. Different animals, I think, and good at different things. And for someone who like challenges, the SEE is ideal.

    It sucks that you ended up with a leak, and if it's from the gear reduction, keep in mind that there's very little oil to start with in there. Maybe a dose of Blue Devil would fix it?

    Keep us posted, please. I'm probably not the only one who likes to see work done by FLUs...and hear about other owners' mechanical battles with theirs.

  4. #43
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    Maybe I say this too much, but concerning that beginning of a leak, just ignore it and it may go away. Seriously, these trucks, and other Unimogs often sit around a lot. It is common for a seal to start leaking when the truck is used again. As FLUfarm noted, just keep the hub topped up if it needs it, and let the lubricant work it's magic. Most modern lubricants, especially the synthetics, have components to treat seals to keep they sealing. That seal is most certainly not worn out.

    When you check the hub level, you might find extra lube in the hub. If it's over-full, drain it back to normal and check your differential. If it is over-full, then the transmission lube is leaking down. No real problem because the hub gets over-full, not starved, but if you drive on the road a lot consider that transmission lube is not spec'ed for hypoid gears (differential). Trans lube is not an EP lube, ie, GL5. As more lube leaks down the diff lube gets diluted. If your work is local and no long road trips, I would not worry about it. BTW, some transmission lubes have a GL-5 rating and support the diff, too.

    But then you might just have a hub leak

    Bob
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  6. #44
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    My research on portal axle leaks boils down to there is no problem with a slow leak as long as you keep the hub filled. The hub doesn't hold much gear lube and its real important that you have enough in there. I haven't heard of leaks of diff fluid into the portal hubs. I have heard of the portal hubs losing oil via the portal breather tubes. It seems to be an issue with vehicles that are run at speed on the highway. Vons Mogs and EI have solutions to this potential issue which separate the oil from the breather tube and allow it to flow back into the hub. For a typical SEE application I don't envision a lot of high speed road driving. Many folks who do highway speeds get an IR gun and shoot the hubs to read the temps on trips.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance (for now)

  7. #45
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    Thank you gents for the info I appreciate it. Tenmogger I did see some posts about the wait and see self sealing over on benzworld. I believe Scott from Expedition Imports was talking about seals that have little current use leaking and folks were chiming in about the synthetic seal restoration angle. Sounded like a good route for MOG1 the time being. I did have a chuckle as after FluFarm mentioned maybe using the Blue Devil I actually then checked it out and the tech suggested the oil additive if it were the gear oil and not brake fluid. I will probably do the wait and see for a while and keep checking hub/brakes level as the tech said expect a full seal restoration in a hundred miles. I'm on under six acres mostly wooded and i'm making the only trail there is, 100 miles is a lot of fwd and reverse If I do use the Azul Diablo Oil additive, and it works as well as the hydraulic stop leak, I will expect either corporate sponsorship or possibly a cheerleader outfit as clearly I'll be biased in their favor from there on out.

    I went to Staples again and (begrudgingly) dropped 150 on two more of the exploded diagram repair manuals. Mostly for the air system and also the rear diff and hubs but they will be of more use I'm sure. Specifically I wanted to get a handle on any seals that may swell in the rear hubs if I did add the Blue devil. I can live with topping off and checking levels but don't want to kick myself in the *** for making more trouble than I had to start with. I have to double check but I feel somewhat confident none of the rubber in there would cause any blockages or flow restrictions except for the actual seal that's leaking. Still I'm going to wait a while and do more research.


    Peakbagger I do know my hi/low gears air pressure switch/collar (I'm making up names here) works but I will probably never use it or not much past the 40 mph mark if I were to. I saw those rather expensive breather tubes or oil retaining tubes on E.I., I presume to run the fast axles and I'm not thinking a FLU419 needs to go that route. But if someone has 'd love to see it. Also I have been putting together a winterize plan for at least one Mog as snow duty will be upon us soon enough. More on that later.

    MOG2 LV report-- spent much of last week looking for a crush washer for the air 4x4,diff lock switch. Used the manual numbers and MB numbers and didn't get very far. Also puzzled some local Autozone employees and a Tractor Trailer Place, gave up in the short term but changed my switch today and used an oversized washer. Like many things I like it looks stupid but works
    4x4 switch.JPG
    If you go to do this I did it by taking off the spare,,,,,,actually beating the ever loving crap out of a seized nut and liquid wrenching it to death, then take off the spare. At this point you probably already did but incase your amazing put the backhoe out straight as you'll need the space to take off and replace the switch. Take and save the black knob switch and next find a ratchet to fit the large nut holding it in place. Push the switch down and go from under the drivers door and push the switch back towards where the spare was. Take off the banjo fittings and special air screws and save ALL your crush washers also label the hoses so you can reconnect correctly to new switch, I also tied string to them so they didn't escape back under the cab. Do it all in reverse and your good. Side note WEAR KNEEPADS, there are NO good surfaces to kneel on in that area and watch the pipe that will be directly above your head as you do this operation I went to straighten my legs after being crimped up like that for a few minutes stood part way up and got a good reminder to be aware of my surroundings. Thankfully a self correcting problem.

    MOG 2 also had a throttle linkage return spring I improvised and a new pressure release valve on the main air reservoir.

    With that in mind I cleaned out (think vacuum and large pipe cleaners) MOG 2's denatured alcohol container as there was some dirtiness and then filled it. I started LV up and built pressure like a boss!!! Runs strong and I'm cycling some algaecide and clean diesel through the cleaned tanks as there was no gas cap upon delivery. One weird thing I witnessed was the alcohol reservoir doing an Old Faithful
    geyser.JPG could be great for pyrotechnics but I'm at a loss here. I need to do some research. Although I did note air pressure like this from the cap on Mog1 before and also puttering air loss from the bottom of the fluid regulating valve. Not exactly sure what is normal and what is not I'll look next chance I get but wanted to share some progress. Super Jazzed about both machines and counting my lucky stars the Texarkana Iron Gods spared me some real issues so far. Thanks again Cheers 8

    edit -my exhaust pic for no other reason than its less smokey
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    Last edited by lurkMcGurk; 08-04-2017 at 20:31.

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  9. #46
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lurkMcGurk View Post
    I will probably do the wait and see for a while and keep checking hub/brakes level as the tech said expect a full seal restoration in a hundred miles. I'm on under six acres mostly wooded and i'm making the only trail there is, 100 miles is a lot of fwd and reverse
    I can relate. Today I was surprised to notice that the FLU 10344 has 110 miles on it. That's 20 more than when I bought it almost two years ago, and I've even driven that one to the post office once.
    I may not live long enough to get 100 miles on it...especially if going in Reverse takes away from the total instead of adding to it.

    Your Old Faithful imitation cracked me up, but at least that "leak" can be fixed by closing the valve.

    Oh, and you should make a Bel-Metric order and stock up on the correct copper washers.
    Last edited by The FLU farm; 08-04-2017 at 21:50.

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  11. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by lurkMcGurk View Post
    I went to Staples again and (begrudgingly) dropped 150 on two more of the exploded diagram repair manuals. Mostly for the air system and also the rear diff and hubs but they will be of more use I'm sure.
    $150 in copying? How many pages are there in that manual?
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  12. #48
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Another Ahab View Post
    $150 in copying? How many pages are there in that manual?
    They charge extra for the many "This page intentionally left blank" pages.

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  14. #49
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    These are the ones I just did
    just made.JPG
    these are the ones I made before with new ones
    All manuals.JPG
    some info is redundant but worth its weight when I need to see the pics clearly or slap a sticky note somewhere. I think they cant bind as many pages at my local Staples so they did around two hundred pages and charged me for extra spirals. Hugely helpful that those monthly cartoons Peakbagger put up in a volume format dated 09-24-2014. Pictures, cartoons and exploded diagrams oh boy!

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    At one point I started printing those manuals and then realized that its tough to find anything quickly so I inevitably just load them up on my laptop and use the PDF search function (Ctrl F) to find what I need and then print out the specific pages.

    Glad you found the cartoons helpful. A lot of repetition but I figure if they repeat it a couple of times over the years it must be something that happens frequently. There is one missing cartoon regarding the cross body air line from the air pressure regulator to the air tank manifold, it rots out from the inside and the military recommends upgrading it to Stainless (I used copper nickel tubing as its a lot easier to bend).

    I missed Ahab s questions. Several of the manuals are 900 to 1000 pages, some are around 400 and a couple are 200.
    Last edited by peakbagger; 08-05-2017 at 16:03.
    Unimog SEE, Unimog 1300L Ambulance (for now)

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