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Greaseable polyurethane sway bar bushings

rustystud

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Just for grins and giggles, does anyone have the NSN numbers for these bushings ? I'll try and get ahold of the Gillig suppliers and see what they say about their parts fitting.
I don't have the TM's for these trucks or I would look them up myself.
 

Floridianson

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Just for grins and giggles, does anyone have the NSN numbers for these bushings ? I'll try and get ahold of the Gillig suppliers and see what they say about their parts fitting.
I don't have the TM's for these trucks or I would look them up myself.
To help keep the Peace around here you want me to order the one you showed and see if it fits on my M1088. Not a problem.
 

Awesomeness

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To help keep the Peace around here you want me to order the one you showed and see if it fits on my M1088. Not a problem.
Someone already did order some, and they weren't able to fit. He emailed me pictures, and I've been trying to help him figure out how to cut/modify them to work. The bracket holes aren't even close enough together to start overlapping yet. I assume he'll post here at some point.
 

JonMolander

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Alamogordo, NM
Just for grins and giggles, does anyone have the NSN numbers for these bushings ? I'll try and get ahold of the Gillig suppliers and see what they say about their parts fitting.
I don't have the TM's for these trucks or I would look them up myself.
From TM 9-2330-394-13&P, I'm showing two NSNs for the bushing. I'm assuming that's for a primary and a suitable sub. They are as follows: 5342-01-483-2293 (part number 12442831) or 5342-01-369-0893 (part number 12417623). Do you also need the SMR Code or CAGEC? The nomenclature is "MOUNT UOC: LTA," or "MOUNT, RESILIENT UCO, MTA,". Seems like gibberish to me.

Reminder for those playing along at home...this is for the M1082 trailer, not the trucks.
 

JonMolander

Member
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Location
Alamogordo, NM
Someone already did order some, and they weren't able to fit. He emailed me pictures, and I've been trying to help him figure out how to cut/modify them to work. The bracket holes aren't even close enough together to start overlapping yet. I assume he'll post here at some point.
Sorry for the slow response to this thread. I'm tackling several projects at once and I tried these bushings last weekend. I wanted to make sure I included photos with this. I ordered a pair of Energy Suspension 41.5002R that I found on eBay and Amazon (shown in a link earlier in this thread). It was marketed for Freightliner and Gillig applications. Since the inner diameter (1-5/8") of the bushing was slightly under what I needed, it doesn't close all the way, causing the outer diameter (2-3/4") of the bushing to be too large to fit in the bracket. I used a floor jack to try to squeeze it but it wasn't nearly enough...I lifted the whole trailer off the frame stands. Haha! So now I need to either drill out the inner diameter of the bushing or shave down the outer diameter.
54394363_1079752952229052_8003785686261956608_n.jpg55451737_1054230591367696_2275315309386661888_n.jpg55554453_431410754286623_3510044529254203392_n.jpg55935476_459868614551741_3936398227556794368_n.jpg
 
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rustystud

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Sorry for the slow response to this thread. I'm tackling several projects at once and I tried these bushings last weekend. I wanted to make sure I included photos with this. I ordered a pair of Energy Suspension 41.5002R that I found on eBay and Amazon (shown in a link earlier in this thread). It was marketed for Freightliner and Gillig applications. Since the inner diameter (1-5/8") of the bushing was slightly under what I needed, it doesn't close all the way, causing the outer diameter (2-3/4") of the bushing to be too large to fit in the bracket. I used a floor jack to try to squeeze it but it wasn't nearly enough...I lifted the whole trailer off the frame stands. Haha! So now I need to either drill out the inner diameter of the bushing or shave down the outer diameter.
View attachment 759014View attachment 759015View attachment 759016View attachment 759017
What you can do is just use a heavy duty "C" clamp and suck the bracket up so you can access the bolt holes.
I've installed these bushings with that much gap all the time. You just need to compress it. Really you don't want any slop when you install them. They are a "zero" clearance bushing. Just like any suspension part. Ever replaced the spring ends ? Did they just slip in ? No, you need to press them in. Same thing here.

Usually the "cut" is on the flat top part. That way you can use your "BFH" (big hammer) to pound on the bracket over the bushing (using Silicone spray helps a lot). Then use your impact to suck down the bolts.
 
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JonMolander

Member
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Location
Alamogordo, NM
VICTORY IS MINE!!!

I started this in February. So over it.

I tried multiple methods of enlarging the hole from 1.60" to ~1.70". My most recent attempt yesterday was a rotary rasp on my drill press. I did absolutely nothing. So I decided it was time to just cut about 0.25" off the top. I decided to go with a hacksaw since slow cuts was the way to go. I also found some use out of incredibly sharp buck knife. Cut it like a block of cheese.

Anyway, with help from my floor jack and a spud wrench, I got the lower brackets on and the project is now finished!

Result is the Energy Suspension 41.5002 will work with modification but it's probably easier if Awesomeness decided to make a mold for these and keep a few on the shelf. Just my 2cents.


tried a rotary rasp - total fail.jpgsuccess.jpghacksaw method.jpglike sliced bread.jpggap closed up nicely.jpgfirst attempt was ugly.jpgbushing inner diameter.jpgbuck knife method.jpg
 

Awesomeness

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Orlando, FL
VICTORY IS MINE!!!

I started this in February. So over it.

I tried multiple methods of enlarging the hole from 1.60" to ~1.70". My most recent attempt yesterday was a rotary rasp on my drill press. I did absolutely nothing. So I decided it was time to just cut about 0.25" off the top. I decided to go with a hacksaw since slow cuts was the way to go. I also found some use out of incredibly sharp buck knife. Cut it like a block of cheese.

Anyway, with help from my floor jack and a spud wrench, I got the lower brackets on and the project is now finished!

Result is the Energy Suspension 41.5002 will work with modification but it's probably easier if Awesomeness decided to make a mold for these and keep a few on the shelf. Just my 2cents.


View attachment 761154View attachment 761153View attachment 761151View attachment 761152View attachment 761150View attachment 761149View attachment 761148View attachment 761147
Sounds painful, but I'm glad you finally got it to work.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
VICTORY IS MINE!!!

I started this in February. So over it.

I tried multiple methods of enlarging the hole from 1.60" to ~1.70". My most recent attempt yesterday was a rotary rasp on my drill press. I did absolutely nothing. So I decided it was time to just cut about 0.25" off the top. I decided to go with a hacksaw since slow cuts was the way to go. I also found some use out of incredibly sharp buck knife. Cut it like a block of cheese.

Anyway, with help from my floor jack and a spud wrench, I got the lower brackets on and the project is now finished!

Result is the Energy Suspension 41.5002 will work with modification but it's probably easier if Awesomeness decided to make a mold for these and keep a few on the shelf. Just my 2cents.


View attachment 761154View attachment 761153View attachment 761151View attachment 761152View attachment 761150View attachment 761149View attachment 761148View attachment 761147

So you didn't try and compress the bushing ? I know you used a jack, but that doesn't compress the bushing. In our bus shop I've had to use a 4 ton "porta-power" unit to compress the bushings. They can be that tight.
 

Floridianson

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Interlachen Fl.
Yep not disappointed and even a seven page instructions with pictures for the dummy impaired. This is above and beyond first class all the way. Thanks got mine in the mail today.
 

Attachments

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mkeith123

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Seminole,OK
My m1078a rear stabilizer bar bushings were never even on my truck when i bought it. I would like to buy some from you. I read about upper and lower bushings as well. Do you have a picture of where they go?
 

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
The lower bushings (pictured in this thread and the for sale thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?184851-MTV-Sway-Bar-Bushings-Greasable-Polyurethane ) are what people refer to as the "lower" bushings. The "upper" bushings are those that go in the eyelets of the bar.
thought they for the chassis bracket where the vertical link from sway bar attaches to said bracket ..... NOT the eyelets at ends of "the bar" which are at the axle on each side of the pumpkin.
 

Awesomeness

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thought they for the chassis bracket where the vertical link from sway bar attaches to said bracket ..... NOT the eyelets at ends of "the bar" which are at the axle on each side of the pumpkin.
Correct. Sorry for the poor wording. #4 in the picture are what people call the "upper" bushings.

LMTVRearStabilizerBarDiagram.jpg
 

Lugnuts

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Well, I have a picture and it was sent to me and I am hoping to get an address of whom I am contacting, and price and availability of said bushings.
Thank you
Lugnuts
 
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