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Thread: optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

  1. #201
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    The head gasket change fixed the problem.
    Don't buy Enginetech head gaskets unless you want practice changing them.
    I pumped it to 15lbs and it held for 3 hours. I figured that was long enough. There was not anything printed on the radiator cap but testing it, 16lbs is the most it will hold.
    I had a leak at the Paradox water kit. There is a plug in one side of the thermostat housing and the plug is very small. The Permatex thread sealer did not seal it. I had to use Teflon tape to get it to seal.
    Now I have to remove the radiator and intake so I can put it back together.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

  2. #202
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    made it this far, should be able to add fluids tomorrow eavening.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

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  4. #203
    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    My fingers are crossed.

  5. #204
    4 Star General Barrman's Avatar
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    At least those head studs have paid for themselves now. How many sets of head bolts have you not had to buy?

    If it holds 15 psi for more than 20 minutes or so, you are good. Overnight means you have one heck of a tight test pump and hose set up.
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

  6. #205
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    yes the ARP studs have been worth every penny. They have been installed 4 times now.
    The test set I got from the auto parts store was brand new, I think I was the first to use it.
    It had adapters to test the cap and my cap would let pressure off at 17 psi so it is nice to know I have the right cap since there was nothing printed on it.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

  7. #206
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    It is running, sounds good but i have a few bugs to work out.

    The first is my oil presure gauge is pegged. the gauge goes to 60 and the needle is past that on what would be 80 or more. I am using the same sending unit that came out of the 6.2 and it never went over 60 psi before.

    The second is i am pretty sure the thermostat is not opening. The water temp continues to climb the longer it runs, the drivers side of radiator is cold and the upper hose is cold while the rest is pretty hot. hte gauge got to about 230 before i shut it down. the oil cooler and heater core hose are on the passenger side so there is circulation through the heater core and the oil lines are warm so that is what is heating the passenger side of radiator. With the upper hose cold and drivers side of radiator cold that tells me the thermostat is not opperating.

    I also have my check engine light on and with my rewire, the idiot light sending units are all wired to that and at this time the water temp idiot light sending unit is not installed so that may be why.
    exhaust temp gauge seems to work but it never got over 350 and I did not get any turbo pressure on the gauge but I think I have some leaks in the intake system and there was no load on the engine at any time.
    the last is my fuel gauge is not working or the truck is almost empty. I will check the fuel level tomorrow to see which is the case.

    just got to work out the bugs
    Thanks
    Rich
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

  8. #207
    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    Rich - glad it’s running. I recommend you consider mechanical oil pressure and water temperature gauges to eliminate any possibility of error. And yes I agree that the thermostat is not opening. Is it possible that it got installed backwards?

  9. #208
    4 Star General Barrman's Avatar
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    350 on the EGT is about right at idle. I see 300-400 at idle most of the time. It jumped to 275 as soon as I fired it up this morning and was at 325 or so when the cold idle kicked off.

    It won't make the boost gauge move until you put a good load on it. Revving won't do it and neither will trying to launch and wind out in 1st gear. As soon as it shifts to 2nd, the boost will grow with the rpm if you stay in it.

    I agree about the thermostat. However, just to say it. Are you sure the water pump is spinning the correct way? I has been a while, but I thought you got a serpentine pump backing plate from me and your pictures show a v belt set up. The v belt pumps have no arrows showing rotation direction while the serpentine pumps have an arrow pointing counter clockwise on the drivers side of the pump.

    Glad you got it running finally.
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

  10. #209
    4 Star General richingalveston's Avatar
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    I am using the correct water pump, i purchased a flow Kooler 6.2 pump and are using the 6.2 backing plate. I think my high flow thermostat is not working. I am going to pull it out and boil it tonight to see if it is opperating. it is supposed to be a 180 degree thermostat. I am not sure what is going on with the oil presure gauges i definately have oil flow, the lines are hot to the coolers and i craccked the turbo return line and got oil coming out. I am going to unplug the sending units to see if my check engine light goes out, maybe the low water or the oil pressure sending units have gone bad. they have been sitting for a while now so I will have to start checking each one.

    the good news is the engine is running good and no leaks. It definitely came up to temp and did not seize up this time.
    Rich
    Galveston, Texas
    85 M1009, 6.5 GEP w/Leroy A-team turbo banks manifold, 4l80e/US shift controller, 205 with ORD Magnum, 4.56 gears, Front - D60 E-locker - 4 inch TC front springs w/zero rate, Rear - 14 bolt D-locker, stock springs ORD shackle flip w/zero rate, 16 inch GM/hutchinson Aluminum double bead locks w 11X39 XZL tires. PSC hydro assist steering.

  11. #210
    4 Star General Sharecropper's Avatar
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    Rich, a mechanical water temperature gauge could be the most important instrument in your truck. Here is the gauge I am installing in my M1028 -

    https://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-wate...bing-mech.html

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