Project m1010

It is under the dash on the left side of the steering column. About the size of a pack of Marlboro in a black plastic box. Report back.

cucvrus said:

It is under the dash on the left side of the steering column. About the size of a pack of Marlboro in a black plastic box. Report back.

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Thanks CUCVRUS. Will check.

OK there is an empty back plastic female receptacle box. Has internals for something to plug into about the size of a pack of smokes. Guess that answers that question. Do you have one? Oh and I will order that AC unit and cover some time next month. I will make arrangements to have it picked up. I will PM you closer to when I am ready to send you a check for it.

Just jump across the big stud on top and the bottom stud. Count to 10 disconnect and have someone attempt to fire it up. Or count to 12 and run and start it yourself. With longer wires you can do the jumping from the drivers seat. That is how I fire up wrecks. Jumper cables work well.

Great idea. Will try it. Thanks.

Hey report back. I fired up a few 6.2 engines on the floor in my shop. They started right up and ran with a garden hose hooked up to them. Of course no fan was turning and I only ran them a few minutes. Very load. But cool. Please report back. I think it will fire right up if the glow plugs are functioning.

I used my jumper cables and jumped between the two large posts. No joy. Tried it 3 times. I am pretty sure I am getting fuel because there is white smoke coming out of both tail pipes equally. I need to check my glow plugs next. Thanks for the help. It does spin pretty fast.

If it were me. I would pull the glow plugs and do a visual on them. You can easily test them in the engine. But with the other issues you have I would pull them and check them up front. Do as you wish. Good Luck. Report back. Do you know how to check them out of the engine?

I don't know how to check them out of the block. I do know how to check them installed. I would imagine its the same way. But open to learning anytime. They all metered 0 Ohms in the block. If they were good they should have been at least 1 Ohms each.

Positive to terminal and negative to tip of glow plug?

Positive to terminal, negative to the metal part that threads in to the block.

OK quick question. So if I am removing the glow plugs and bench testing them with a battery charger/short wire to a battery. I am not going to get the same results and diagnosis as the ohm meter? I Just remove all 8 plugs and get a visual on them. I have had a few over the years that were getting hot back up the shaft and not the tip. I also had a few that were semi swelled and got warm but not hot. So honestly I never used my voltage/ohm meter to test them. I have great results. And I get to do a visual inspection and replace them as needed. Am I going about it all wrong? Besides the extra labor removing them. I can remove 8 glow plugs and check them in about 20 minutes my way. Unless the plug is swelled then it could be a few hours or a few minutes. Curious to know.

cucvrus said:

OK quick question. So if I am removing the glow plugs and bench testing them with a battery charger/short wire to a battery. I am not going to get the same results and diagnosis as the ohm meter? I Just remove all 8 plugs and get a visual on them. I have had a few over the years that were getting hot back up the shaft and not the tip. I also had a few that were semi swelled and got warm but not hot. So honestly I never used my voltage/ohm meter to test them. I have great results. And I get to do a visual inspection and replace them as needed. Am I going about it all wrong? Besides the extra labor removing them. I can remove 8 glow plugs and check them in about 20 minutes my way. Unless the plug is swelled then it could be a few hours or a few minutes. Curious to know.

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Your way is fine. In all actuality it is a full proof way to ensure the that the GP under test is actually functioning properly.

The ohm test is a good first "Go or No Go" test. If it's high resistance or open it probably is defective. After the ohm test it would be a good idea to put the GP under a functionality test. By testing it with voltage applied you are seeing it it has any other issue that would cause it not to heat up or show any other deficiencies.

So your way is good way to visually test the GP to verify proper operation.

antennaclimber said:

Positive to terminal, negative to the metal part that threads in to the block.

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I test them while their in the block with a simple 1 wire test light clipped to the positive battery post. Touch the test light probe on the terminal end of the glow plug and if it lights your good to go. If it doesn't than its burned out and not making any heat.

There is no need to use jumper cables to jump the glow plug relay. When doing it this way you are needlessly jumping a high amp circuit.

Simply use a wire 14ga or bigger, and ground the light blue wire on the relay(no need to disconnect it). There will not be any big sparks, because this is a low amp circuit.

Of course, this will not work if your relay is bad. Jumping the big terminals will work if the relay is bad.

Next time I will use my slave cables. It still yields the same results. Stop creeping on my posts and belittling what I say. I should have said jumper wires. Of course I didn't expect to be graded and cross examined by the DOGHEAD. For my assistance D- = inappropriate use of terms jumper cables. I am sure he would get the same results either way. Let the circus begin.

I simply stated a safer(alternate) method, if you feel belittled or whatever, don't participate in the forums.

The advice I gave is also in the technical manual, iirc.

I thought Dogheads response was tactful.
He was simply responding to what you wrote and offered a different method.
He wasn't making it personal like your response to him was.

Do as you wish and have a great day.

Whatever. Getting back to the original issue. I think you (Warwag) have glow plug issues. Quite obvious. I have to get a new circuit card for a friends M1009 and I will be making a purchase soon. Like this week. From reading the posts. I see they are NOT always available. I also sold this M1009 back in 2013 and it shipped to Indiana. This is the first issue the new owner had with it. Someone out there (Mechanic) put a push button on the glow plugs and he said it lasted 2 weeks. He was able to contact me and will be getting the replacement card and the 13 G glow plugs. This is the second previous owner that contacted me in the past week with minor issues. I guess NOT starting would be construed as more then minor for some. But to me most vehicles I see here to fix it is SOP. Besides botched wiring and poor bypasses of glow plug systems. Stereos, Fog lights and auxiliary power points are at the top of the list. Wire cutters and but connectors in the wrong hands can be lethal in most vehicles. I filled a 5 gallon bucket with extra wiring from an M1009 that I worked on last month. It had every electronic devise know to man and still did not run or have headlamps. I do hope you get the M1010 running. I am rooting for you. Any advise I give you I tried myself and in the salvage business I was able to bypass a lot of wiring and get engines running. So cables , wires, Coat
hangers, screw drivers and lug wrenches. it it carried the current I used it in a pinch. A leather man is great for jumping across the glow plug relay and the starter relay plug. May not be up to code but it works. So if it matters i will continue to post. I think I deserve that. I do try to help more often then NOT. take Care keep your powder dry and have a great Sunday.

cucvrus said:

Next time I will use my slave cables. It still yields the same results. Stop creeping on my posts and belittling what I say. I should have said jumper wires. Of course I didn't expect to be graded and cross examined by the DOGHEAD. For my assistance D- = inappropriate use of terms jumper cables. I am sure he would get the same results either way. Let the circus begin.

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doghead said:

I simply stated a safer(alternate) method, if you feel belittled or whatever, don't participate in the forums.

The advice I gave is also in the technical manual, iirc.

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Tinstar said:

I thought Dogheads response was tactful.
He was simply responding to what you wrote and offered a different method.
He wasn't making it personal like your response to him was.

Do as you wish and have a great day.

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cucvrus said:

Whatever. Getting back to the original issue. A leather man is great for jumping across the glow plug relay and the starter relay plug. May not be up to code but it works. So if it matters i will continue to post. I think I deserve that. I do try to help more often then NOT. take Care keep your powder dry and have a great Sunday.

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opcorn: