Project m1010

Thank you to everyone trying to help. I really appreciate it and I mean that. I agree the issue is definitely glow plug related. The weather has been cold and the old girl has been sitting in it for months. I am currently in North Carolina working. I should be home in 2 to 3 weeks. I should have a Glow Plug Card and 8 new Glow Plugs waiting for me when I return. I believe that will get her up and running again. I will keep you all posted. Sorry I missed all these posts as my internet (via Verizon) at my house took a crap! My wife is taking care of that issue. Thanks again for every ones help.

I arrived back home a few days ago. Sitting on my work bench were my AC Delco Glow Plugs and new Glow Plug control card. This morning I was finally able to start the install. The card takes all of a few seconds to push in. I then started on the glow plugs. First thing was to pull the battery and battery tray closest to the firewall. 4 bolts and she was free. I then pulled those 4 glow plugs. One of the glow plug leads was about 5 inches to short. So I spliced in a 5" section. I had picked up some heat resistant blue connectors from NAPA. I then used two types of heat shrink. Red and black. The red heat shrink is some type of fiber glass reinforced material. Its definitely tougher than standard heat shrink tube. I place the both types of heat shrink on the wire and then crimp on the connectors. Tug test and then slide down the red heat shrink over the crimped area and up against the base of the connector. When shrunk to the connector it gives it a nice tight hold onto the connector. I then did the same with the black. Two layers should help give some type of strain relief off of the actual crimp if ever need. Most likely not but it sure doesn't hurt. All 8 completed and battery/battery tray reinstalled. Every thing cleaned up and man was I anxious to turn that key. After waiting the allotted time for the glow plugs to heat up I crank her up. The engine sputtered a few times and died. Again I turn her over. This time she lit off as grayish smoke bellowed from her pipes once again! I tell you that was a very satisfying moment. A lot of hours invested she is running.

Now the bad. Not really but kept me from running her down the highway. After getting her started I got out of the truck to make sure nothing was leaking or smoking or what ever. I found the fuel filter spewing a shocking amount of diesel from behind the fuel filter. I shut her down. I pulled the fuel filter and found the heater element/water sensor round thing to be the source of the flood. Now I would like to say that I had no clue as to what the round thingy thing was before hand. But a google search soon told me what it was. From what I have read is that there is a O ring in there that tends to dry up and blow out. So that is my next hurtle. I also found a small coolant leak from the silicone hose up against the fire wall I installed 4 weeks ago. I simply pulled the hose clamp and installed it closer to the bell on the end of the heater core. Leak is now fixed. I drove the truck over to a different part of my property. The engine feels good. Runs good and the transmission shifts nicely. Nice firm shifts. Next on my Mechanical list is to pull the hubs, clean and repack the bearings. I will install some new Warn locking hubs. One of the T cases rubber mounts had been removed by the dreaded CUCV Mechanics. So I will order or find a new one. I am now ready to order the A/C cover for the ambulance box as well as the stock A/C unit. During this time I will also start to order all of the missing interior bits. Finally she is running and running good! After I have her running in top shape and the interior is done I will order my 4" lift from O.R.D.. With all the bells and whistles. There Bilstien shocks work so good on these trucks. Cant wait! Stay tuned.

Congratulations on getting it running.

Keep us updated with the restoration progress.

Today I fixed my fuel leak. The water in the fuel sensor is bad. It had Fuel blowing out of it at an astonishing rate. Not dripping but hosing out! In 1990 GM simply deleted the hole going to the sensor and deleted that sensor. I pretty much did the same thing. I drilled out the hole to accept a 10x1/4 threaded bolt. To that I added a rubber washer. Screwed it in and put the filter back on. Purged the air and started her up. She runs nice and smooth. I did this while it was still on the truck. Pretty quick and easy job. Next order of business is to pump out the old diff and T case fluids. Some new oil will be pumped back in. Repack bearings after that.

After fixing the Fuel leak issue I took a few minutes to clean up the rear doors. The old aluminum rods that hold the doors partially open were bent up. The brackets that hold them were also a bit messed up. So they must go.






After removing the brackets I then placed rivets in the holes. I will paint soon.

Do you need replacements for the rod holders?

No. I won't need them for my application. I am still making a list of items I need. I will get together with you for one shipment. I just want to get her road worthy before I progress further on all the other items. I want to go through the entire drivetrain first. Change all fluids and grease everything before taking her on the road.

Isn't that a great feeling when the engine comes back to life?!

Did the fresh cab keep the mice away?

Yes it kept the Hordes at bay. Thank you.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Earth-Ki...62587&wl11=online&wl12=47658546&wl13=&veh=sem

My wife also found it at Walmart.

Yes it is a great feeling when you bring a vehicle back to life. Its the best way to recycle. No need to buy a new vehicle and you re use a perfectly good vehicle that will out last most of the modern ones.

Went to the junk yard and found a new NP208 in cab selector cover, shifter and a boot. Found a NP208 knob on eBay pretty cheap. I also ordered 2 spray cans of CARC 383 to clean up the wiper cowl. I am going to pull the front hub assemblies off and clean/repack all the bearings. I don't want to drive it any more until I have all that 34 year old grease out of the bearings. I have a funny vibration when the truck is at idle. Suspect it the Harmonic balancer. Going to pull and replace it. Those old ones dry out and destroy themselves. This thing sat for years in a desert environment. I suspect it dried out. After the bearings are done and the harmonic balancer in I will drive her into town and get her registered.

Once she is registered I will focus on the interior. That will include to start, just a new dash. Everything else is in really good shape. Eventually I will go all black in the cab. After that a Lift from Off Road Designs. I may go with a 4" lift and some 255/85R16 BFG Mts. I plan on going with the 2" shackle flip with 6" Super Shackles. This will give me 4.5" in the rear with my tire perfectly centered in the wheel well. Easy ride 4" leafs will work nicely up front. King shocks will be placed in each corner as well as the steering stabilizer. Front sway bar disconnect and new bumps stops will help with the front end articulation. I will add all of the options O.R.D. has. Once I have the drivetrain and lift all done I will focus on the rear cabin. I have a basic plan for that. Simply and easy to execute.

You and I are basically on the same plan!

Please report how it goes with replacement of harmonic balancer and if that eliminates the vibration at idle.....I have the exact same symptom, I think....

I have 285/75/16's on my truck currently, which are fine for the rear, but a little tight in the front wheel well, so had been thinking about the ORD 3" kit.

WARWAG said:

Once she is registered I will focus on the interior. That will include to start, just a new dash. Everything else is in really good shape. Eventually I will go all black in the cab. After that a Lift from Off Road Designs. I may go with a 4" lift and some 255/85R16 BFG Mts. I plan on going with the 2" shackle flip with 6" Super Shackles. This will give me 4.5" in the rear with my tire perfectly centered in the wheel well. Easy ride 4" leafs will work nicely up front. King shocks will be placed in each corner as well as the steering stabilizer. Front sway bar disconnect and new bumps stops will help with the front end articulation. I will add all of the options O.R.D. has. Once I have the drivetrain and lift all done I will focus on the rear cabin. I have a basic plan for that. Simply and easy to execute.

Click to expand...

If it's original, the harmonic balancer needs replaced no matter what.

Amazon has the ACDelco one for the best price.
OEM exact match.

Several documented cases here on SS of broken crankshafts due to bad/old harmonic balancers.
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Part # for the harmonic balancer? Can't filter for it on Amazon....

Tinstar said:

If it's original, the harmonic balancer needs replaced no matter what.

Amazon has the ACDelco one for the best price.
OEM exact match.

Several documented cases here on SS of broken crankshafts due to bad/old harmonic balancers.

Click to expand...

14022671

Yep, finally found it on Amazon.....thanks!

Tinstar said:

14022671

Click to expand...

One of the transmission mounts had been scavenged by the CUCV mechanics. They also took the other half mounting bolt. 1984 and older vehicles have the 2 piece Transmission mounts. I picked up a set from NAPA and sourced some new 1/2"x 3-1/2" Grade 8 bolts. I also picked up some grade 8 washers and locking washers. These are COURSE thread as the screw up into cast iron. Now my transmission is fastened properly in place. The old remaining mount was pretty dried up and thrown away. I still have a slight vibration at low idle. Going to install a new Harmonic balancer next.

You may want to consider a Fluidampr instead of the standard Harmonic balancer.
After I installed the fluidampr I seriously thought I had broke something. Everything was
so incredibly smooth. There is a world of difference in the felt vibration between the two devices.
Just my 2 cents. There is a reason why most race cars use the Fluidampr.