• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Project m1010

159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
We remain on the same path.....my harmonic balancer has been ordered from Amazon but still not shipped two days later, not sure what's up with that........and then transmission and transfer case mounts will be addressed.......then I'll take to a shop for evaluation of my ATF leak, either from transmission and/or transfer case.......other than these "little" problems truck runs/drives fine.....I think!

One of the transmission mounts had been scavenged by the CUCV mechanics. They also took the other half mounting bolt. 1984 and older vehicles have the 2 piece Transmission mounts. I picked up a set from NAPA and sourced some new 1/2"x 3-1/2" Grade 8 bolts. I also picked up some grade 8 washers and locking washers. These are COURSE thread as the screw up into cast iron. Now my transmission is fastened properly in place. The old remaining mount was pretty dried up and thrown away. I still have a slight vibration at low idle. Going to install a new Harmonic balancer next.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
You may want to consider a Fluidampr instead of the standard Harmonic balancer.
After I installed the fluidampr I seriously thought I had broke something. Everything was
so incredibly smooth. There is a world of difference in the felt vibration between the two devices.
Just my 2 cents. There is a reason why most race cars use the Fluidampr.
$100 ACDelco vs $400+ Fluid one.

Easy decision for me

I agree the fluid ones are very nice. I just couldn't justify the extra $300
 
Last edited:

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
I have one I pulled from my 6.5 gep to put a fluid dampner on. I believe they are the same. It is the same as the one that I have for my 6.2 or at least looks that way, side by side I cannot see any difference.

IF it works, $20 plus shipping but I won't be home until sunday night.

Most auto parts stores can get the balancer next day.

pm me if you want it.

Rich

I see you are in Houston. I will be in greenspoint area working a job on Monday if that is close to you maybe we can meet at lunch
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I had to cancel my Amazon order for the harmonic balancer - they couldn't ship what they didn't have......trying to source one through another supplier
Did they say they are out?
I just checked and it is still showing in stock.

If you choose the free shipping, it sometimes takes a bit to get to your door.
Local parts store should be able to get it for you.
They only stock the cheap ones.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Buying a used one isn't any better than leaving old one on.

If your going to the trouble to change it and the seal, install brand new.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
I'll be replacing motor mounts and transfer case mounts (ordered from ORD) along with the harmonic balancer to first make stationary my drive train, and then yes on to replacing seals for transmission and transfer case, which were no doubt negatively affected by drive train vibration.

ChevyNationParts was a quick shipper for my OEM harmonic balancer.

If you are leaking atf, you must replace the seals in the transfer case and transmission.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Post pics of your old balancer if you would.
Mine looked ok while it was on, but once it was removed, was way worse than expected.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,256
1,708
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
It definitely needed replaced.
Looks way past due.


Hope you replaced the seal while it was off.
 

someoldmoose

New member
583
2
0
Location
Lancaster, PA
A suggestion, if I may, another GM "weakness" is the rear drive shaft. If you are going for a bulletproof expedition rig, change the transfer case output to the flange style and have a shaft made with the slip-joint in the shaft. Two purposes : 1- If the rear shaft or any part of it (u-joint) breaks, drop it out and go front wheel drive (yes it works, even better with a traction aid in the front pumpkin) when out in the weeds. 2 - makes the trans / t-case a sealed unit. If the factory shaft falls out, the juice is loose and you are stuck. Everything else that I read sounds right-on.

Another unrelated tip : If the glow plug system craps out the key to starting is to floor the throttle and crank away ( within the duty cycle of the starter motor ) If the engine is right ( no tight valves, excessive blow-by, etc. ) she'll fire ( the colder the outside air temp., the longer the crank time needed ). The glow plugs are there to "help" it start quickly by preheating the air going in. It WILL start and run without any of it. Just make sure that after it does start that you run it at "normal operating temp" for a while to evaporate any fuel that might have "polluted" the lube oil.

Offered tip because it can be difficult to find a GM dealer or NAPA store in the Amazon Basin. We, however, are only a post or PM away. :beer: Explore on !
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Thanks for the tip......was thinking along the lines of evaluating a swap of the NP 208 for an NP205.....will think about this.

A suggestion, if I may, another GM "weakness" is the rear drive shaft. If you are going for a bulletproof expedition rig, change the transfer case output to the flange style and have a shaft made with the slip-joint in the shaft. Two purposes : 1- If the rear shaft or any part of it (u-joint) breaks, drop it out and go front wheel drive (yes it works, even better with a traction aid in the front pumpkin) when out in the weeds. 2 - makes the trans / t-case a sealed unit. If the factory shaft falls out, the juice is loose and you are stuck. Everything else that I read sounds right-on.

Another unrelated tip : If the glow plug system craps out the key to starting is to floor the throttle and crank away ( within the duty cycle of the starter motor ) If the engine is right ( no tight valves, excessive blow-by, etc. ) she'll fire ( the colder the outside air temp., the longer the crank time needed ). The glow plugs are there to "help" it start quickly by preheating the air going in. It WILL start and run without any of it. Just make sure that after it does start that you run it at "normal operating temp" for a while to evaporate any fuel that might have "polluted" the lube oil.

Offered tip because it can be difficult to find a GM dealer or NAPA store in the Amazon Basin. We, however, are only a post or PM away. :beer: Explore on !
 

WARWAG

Active member
Sorry I have been gone for so long. My work has kept me out in the field way to much. The Campulance is just about done. The drive train is pretty much done. I installed Toyo Mts 255/85R16 tires. The Toyos are the nicest tires I have ever put on an off road vehicle. They totally change the ride, sound and feel of my truck. They are my new standard load out for any vehicle I own. They are that good. The rear cabin has been cleared out and is ready to receive its new interior. The cab is in need of a new dash and a few small things. Vintage Air will take over the A/C works sometime later. ORD Lift has arrived. Will work on that when I get home. Banks Turbo will round everything out.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks