M1123 Purchase and Build Thread - Virginia

Cheap 24v universal pump on ebay $7. Not mission critical. See my build thread for pics and ebay number. Military washer pump crazy priced for a blue water squirt.

I'll have to keep that option in mind, Juan. I just ordered the OEM pump brand new for $39 off of eBay.

As for the stray voltage, I'll have to check that again tomorrow when I have time.

As it sits now - new 2 door kit, reverse light added, differential oils changed, insured through State Farm at the moment as an AM General M1123 (all questions about insurance will only be answered through PMs), antenna bracket added at passenger side rear where holes already existed, glow plugs and Smart Start system being replaced each night I come home, it stalled last night due to a few glow plugs being swelled already and temps dropping so much.

Otherwise ready for VA inspection and still waiting on the title issue to be resolved which my original estimate was this week or next week. I'm assuming that the Georgia DMV is taking their time with the paperwork, but I haven't gotten confirmation of this.

I was hoping to have this on the road for T-Giving, but it looks like it won't even make the Xmas parade.

Success! Smart Start system, TSU, and all glow plugs replaced and it fires right up now. I upgraded to the S3 Smart Start system (white label in the picture).

What did you use to get that obnoxious soapstone "X" off your hood? I can only get mine to lighten.

I think my wife actually went after it with goo gone when she removed the "Spindles Inspected" sticker off the front. It's still there slightly.

Lionel said:

What did you use to get that obnoxious soapstone "X" off your hood? I can only get mine to lighten.

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Thanks for the frequent updates; I have enjoyed reading this thread. I have been eyeing these trucks, too. They look really nice. A good friend of mine told me that these trucks have Chinese blocks that are prone to failure and that is why the USMC is getting rid of them. I did an Internet search and came up with some similar information, but I can't tell if this is the truth or someone made it up. With that said, I have seen posts here and elsewhere that reference the Chinese blocks. Is there a way to tell if they are Chinese-made or not? Are the Chinese-made blocks weaker?

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1628494

Picture attached of casting number on the engine just in front of the transmission on the driver side. The transmission rebuild plate is visible, and the engine has a similar one on the passenger side under the doghouse.

According to the linked discussion, this means I do not have a Chinese block, correct? Now I would just like to find out if it is in fact a GEP.

MaverickH1 said:

Picture attached of casting number on the engine just in front of the transmission on the driver side. The transmission rebuild plate is visible, and the engine has a similar one on the passenger side under the doghouse.

According to the linked discussion, this means I do not have a Chinese block, correct? Now I would just like to find out if it is in fact a GEP.

View attachment 659193

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This might help you bro.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=34961

MaverickH1 said:

Picture attached of casting number on the engine just in front of the transmission on the driver side. The transmission rebuild plate is visible, and the engine has a similar one on the passenger side under the doghouse.

According to the linked discussion, this means I do not have a Chinese block, correct? Now I would just like to find out if it is in fact a GEP.

View attachment 659193

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I don't want to come across as an expert, because I only know what little I have read, but, yes, it sounds like your engine block is one of the good ones.

BKubu said:

I don't want to come across as an expert, because I only know what little I have read, but, yes, it sounds like your engine block is one of the good ones.

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From what I'm reading from Videris's link, it looks like it at least confirms that it is a GM or GEP block and not a Chinese one. Now the question is about whether it is a GEP or a GM. Sounds like I need to look at the date code on the other side and for the diamond in the valley under the fuel injectors when I get home.

MaverickH1 said:

From what I'm reading from Videris's link, it looks like it at least confirms that it is a GM or GEP block and not a Chinese one. Now the question is about whether it is a GEP or a GM. Sounds like I need to look at the date code on the other side and for the diamond in the valley under the fuel injectors when I get home.

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This was sent out by Sintorian last month in another post. Scope it, it might help you out further.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007...ptimizer-6500/

Correction - Sintorion not Sintorian. My bad.

Its all in the casting numbers guys. The correct casting numbers for a GEP block (located on the other flange (right side)from the XXXX506 casting numbers) are two digit pairs followed by a letter, for example;

03 17 S

which indicates March 17, 2010. GEP began marking this way in 2000 with the letter H, skipped I (so as not to be confused with 1), and so on. S indicating 2010. Not sure when it stopped or how long that continued. Old style GM blocks were of the format that began with a letter. For example;

B212

I'm not sure how to decode these, but I know its been discussed elsewhere. The alleged Chinese blocks are void of casting numbers on either flange. The has been a report of denial by Melton that they used Chinese blocks and I'm not sure of the true origin, perhaps they came from Brazil or somewhere else. The majority of the 1123's on GP do have GEP or GM blocks and GP is now showing better pictures of the rear block. Just know what you are buying before bidding.

I should also add that there are 12555506 (known as "506" blocks) in both older GM as well as GEP "Optimizer" blocks, so this is not by its self an indication of either.

Confirmed as a Navistar cast block. Diamond under fuel injector pump (I only saw it from the doghouse side).

I didn't see any date code. Can anyone show me a picture of where it should be? I'm thinking it might be hidden under the Rebuild plate.

You're good though, the triangles prove it.

I'm now in a stall waiting for titling paperwork. From auction end date until now has been ~4.5 months. I've had the vehicle in my possession for a shade under 2 months. I'm eager to get it on the road but I have to continue to be patient.

I installed the fiberglass troop seats installed today, which means it's nearly ready to be a puppy carrier. I'm missing a few parts for it, being the support brackets that attach to the B pillar. Also, there's nothing that keeps the front most inside part of the bench upright. Does anyone know what part is needed there? Or is it supposed to rest on the 2 man cargo divider/bulkhead that I haven't installed yet?

I had to forego the use of the two 7/16-20 bolts on each one in favor of 5/16-24 bolts. Whoever drilled the holes for what was mounted to this thing did a very poor job and the holes were slightly off location. In order to make it look semi straight I had to use smaller bolts unless I wanted the task to take significantly longer. Many of the holes were nasty and snowman shaped, but all of the holes were there for the troop carrier seat installation.



I also slapped a 12-24v LED mini beacon onto it just to see what it would look like. I might put that on the truck during the winter in case of snow problems on our back road. One problem with a camo vehicle is it's pretty hard to see it out here...

the front of the seats rest on the bulkhead. there should be rubber pieces on the bottom the the fold down seat where they sit on that bulkhead.
there are about 6 brackets that secure the bulkhead.