Adding a tach?

bl71236 said:

Digital Dakota SGI-8E Tach interface, tap into either gen 1 or 2 (they both have the post), or tap into the brown tach signal wire on the diagnostic port. (gen 1) . You can then wire in any gasoline electric tach, follow the instructions, and bingo rpm display in a CUCV. Here is my setup.View attachment 651057

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Have you got a small video of it working? Does it flap around like the speedo? Looks really factory, I like it

bl71236 said:

Digital Dakota SGI-8E Tach interface, tap into either gen 1 or 2 (they both have the post), or tap into the brown tach signal wire on the diagnostic port. (gen 1) . You can then wire in any gasoline electric tach, follow the instructions, and bingo rpm display in a CUCV. Here is my setup.
View attachment 651057

Click to expand...

ok I've found the interface here ...

https://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digit...83&sr=8-1&keywords=Digital+Dakota+SGI-8E+Tach

Whats the tacho in your picture? Is it 3"?

It is a stock chevy tach from a late 1970 series truck. It works great using the Dakota interface. Fyi in my M1009
2750 rpm is 70mph indicated. 68-69 on my digital dashboard app on my phone.

Chevybrit said:

I can hear 1-2nd but no matter how hard or soft I drive it just seems to scream all the way to 60?

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You may want to check the vacuum lines if it seems like it is shifting rough. On the passenger side of the engine (under the air filter) is a small vacuum pump, check to see if it is pulling a vacuum. Trace the line back and you will see that it runs back to the transmission modulator. Mine was a combination of a bad modulator and dry rotten vacuum lines. Might want to invest the 25 dollars into new vac lines and A/T Modulator.

Picture of A/T Modulator (located on Passenger side of tranny)

Ordak said:

You may want to check the vacuum lines if it seems like it is shifting rough. On the passenger side of the engine (under the air filter) is a small vacuum pump, check to see if it is pulling a vacuum. Trace the line back and you will see that it runs back to the transmission modulator. Mine was a combination of a bad modulator and dry rotten vacuum lines. Might want to invest the 25 dollars into new vac lines and A/T Modulator.

Picture of A/T Modulator (located on Passenger side of tranny)
View attachment 651780

Click to expand...

Thanks Ordak... Do you have a part number for this and do I need to remove the air filter to get at the pump?
when checking it is it enough just to idle the truck and put my finger over the outlet to see if it's sucking? Or does it need to be measured??

From the Helpful Threads sticky.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50568-CUCV-Throttle-Vacuum-Valve-Adjustment

Chevybrit said:

What's ISSPRO my friend? Have you got a link .. I'm wanting to fit one just so I can find out if my 1009 really does shift up to 3rd ... Seriously I can't tell?!

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Does it go over 50? then it's likely in 3rd....

if it shifts into 2nd without being wound out it is likely shifting into 3rd also.

Bob H said:

Does it go over 50? then it's likely in 3rd....

if it shifts into 2nd without being wound out it is likely shifting into 3rd also.

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The speedo flaps around but it'll do 60 ish

Ok i have my Digital Dakota SGI-8E Tach interface Im now looking for a suitable tacho.. does anyone have something for sale?
I would like to replace the fuel gauge to a 2" awend install the tacho where the orginal fuel gauge was next to the speedo

Will this work with my Digi tach interface?/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSJOMS?psc=1

LMC has what you need, get low rpm tach. have to not use factory connections in bezel. make new wires to connect to not using the plug that goes into the bezel.

LMC has the fuel gauge and tach. get the correct circuit board and I think you can rewire the plug to the correct terminals and use the plug. All parts are direct fit into the bezel

It is somewhere in my post I also went to red led lighting in the gauge cluster

Thanks Rich do you have the title of the thread or a link (LMC is a mail order business.. are they on the net ?)

richingalveston said:

LMC has what you need, get low rpm tach. have to not use factory connections in bezel. make new wires to connect to not using the plug that goes into the bezel.

LMC has the fuel gauge and tach. get the correct circuit board and I think you can rewire the plug to the correct terminals and use the plug. All parts are direct fit into the bezel

It is somewhere in my post I also went to red led lighting in the gauge cluster

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http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/t.aspx

I had to rewire my cluster and did not use printed board (except for lighting) but I did a lot of other things than just adding a tach. Went to all gauges and moved the idiot lights, I did not remove them except 4x4 light.

One thing you have to do I move the gen one and possibly gen two light.

If you can get the right circuit board, they sell three of them, I don't know if one of them is correct, then you can use the square plug that plugs into the circuit board and all of the LMC gauges should work using the board.

found some pics, you can see where I moved the light to. all of the idiot light sensors were combined to light the service engine light. So I have dual sensors on the motor. IF I am not paying attention to a gauge either the water temp, oil pressure will light the idiot light. I had to put individual connectors on the wiring harness and the back of the bezel. There is a way to use the factor plug in the bezel but I did not do that because I wanted to move the cucv volt gauge into the cluster also. I cut out the bezel to mount this gauge.
It works great but does not look just like the others due to the double glass.

Found this tacho and love the mil look .. will this work with the dakota digi corrector?



http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/issgauges9.php

Chevybrit said:

Found this tacho and love the mil look .. will this work with the dakota digi corrector?

View attachment 653109

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/issgauges9.php

Click to expand...

No clue if that one will work.


You really should use a 0-4000 tach.
Factory redline is 3600 and some have said theirs will go above that.
Using that Tach your only guessing.

ISSPRO and VDO make excellent ones.

I used a autometer tiny tach on my 6.2 it used a sensor that you clamped to the alternator and then adjust to get the proper idle reading. Now adtional load in the alt will make it read funny sometimes but that's ok.
I am now using the same tach on my 454 that I put in the truck and it works fine.

Think I'm going to order the LMC unit here
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=78

i have the Dakota digital interface.. So my question is.. The LMC tacho is originally for the civi gas blazer? Do I need to buy the LMC wiring harness for it ? And can anyone recommend a 2" fuel gauge that will work off the standard sender?

many thanks

Wow. You have fun with that. At that price I bought a VDO tach and also have water temp and oil pressure gauge. A lot less work and left the stock wiring harness alone. But do as you wish. My way is the easy way and is a plug and play. The other way involves deep surgery of the wiring harness. To each his own. happy Holidays.

CUCVRUS I can't see it in your picture? Is it where the old fuel gauge is? have you got a clearer pic?

Has anyone figured out a good way to mount a tach onto the steering column like a 60s car? I'm saving the open spot next to the voltmeter for a temp gauge, and I don't want to change where the dummy lights are unless it's easy to change over to a setup like richingalviston has.