G749 Starter and Generator questions-input needed

Black from the factory. If they were on the motor when it got painted, they turned green.

Getting my thoughts organized here, but got the starter on the M211 pulled. More pictures and procedures on tearing down to follow. This starter was more dirty than anything, yet I would sooner tear it down, clean it, and make sure it is functional, and maybe prevent failure in the future. Parts are readily available for this beast, so rebuilding is a snap. Follow along and well see how much I can mess up.

First thing I did was remove the starter switch from the case of the starter. Then bend the tabs on the back of the starter cover. Using a brass drift gently tap around the cover to remove it from the case.

Next, and I don't have a picture of it, is to remove two hex headed bolts that run the length of the starter case. These bolts hold the brush holder plate to the back of the starter. Remove the bolts. Looking within the back of the starter--two(of the 4) brushes are grounded to the brush plate, and two(of the 4) are attached to the fields via a screw on back. Locate the screw that holds two brushes to the fields, and remove the screw. Pull the brush plate off the back of the starter. All four brushes are spring loaded, and as you pull the plate off the back of the starter, the brushes will snap down as it slides off the armature.

Two pictures looking at the brush plate and springs. There is a bushing that is in the back of the plate that the armature rides in. This is replaceable. Also, the brushes are replaceable. It is important to check the brush plate, and look it over. All the springs need to be operable and push the brushes toward the middle of the plate, so when the brushes are on the armature they are constantly tensioned against the part of the armature known as as the commutator. The second pic is looking from the back of the starter to the front with the armature in place. This is just as the brush plate is removed.

Next, take your brass drift and move to the nose of the starter. Drive the armature out of the starter gently. There is a good chance you can grab it at the back of the starter and pull it out. We will need to spend sometime inspecting and working this armature over, but for now we'll set it aside. Grab an ohm meter and measure resistance to ground on the field coil(where we removed the brush contact from-to ground)-it should be open line to the ground of the case-we don't want these fields grounded to the case. Next looking at the case there are four screws that hold the field coils with in the case, spread every 90 degrees. You will probably need a screwdriver impact to remove them. I mark them so they get put back 'clocked' in the same position as they were removed. I am missing a few pictures, so I will have to go back and take a few picture of testing the fields. Also, I will see if I can find some descriptions in some old motor manuals I have to help describe the theory of how this stuff works. More to come. Once we get done with this starter we are gonna look to the generator and see what we can find with it.

Got one of mine pulled and ready to follow along with you.

Opened mine up and there was no o-ring and a bunch of oil in it.

This one is not looking like a good candidate for rebuild.

USMC 00-08 said:

Opened mine up and there was no o-ring and a bunch of oil in it.

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How much oil is my starter supposed to hold? What kind of oil is it and if I go buy some, do I find it next to the ....starter fluid?

Ether way, that big o ring is missing on my starters too so we need a part number alternative. I thought it didn't matter on the asphalt queens but it would help keep oil out. With all the rust on the other starter, a little oil would have been good.

Spring is coming man! We gotta get started on these trucks. You're starting with your starter so that's a good place to start. Cooper Brothers did a quick rebuild on my starter without a problem so let's hope you find the right guys. http://cooperbrothersauto.com/about-cooper-brothers/

It is by the blinker fluid and chem light batteries.