M925A2 snow plow install

doghead said:

Could you show more detail on those diagonal braces?

I'd like to see how you made the ends.

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I cut the ends off the links that came with the snow plowthey are just a cast tab and ball. I don't know what they are called but I'd love to find a source for them. You can weld them at about any angle or offset you want, fortunately for strength I was able to keep my quite straight.

Now I'd like to find some big ends with some poly bushings in them that I could run back and attach to the front axle.

I wouldn't attach anything to the front axle. Too much movement. The axle shouldn't have anything pushing against the front of it. The push frames that go to the axle, go under it and push up, pivoting on pins on the front bumper. Maybe another brace to the frame toward the rear

Jakelc15 said:

I wouldn't attach anything to the front axle. Too much movement. The axle shouldn't have anything pushing against the front of it. The push frames that go to the axle, go under it and push up, pivoting on pins on the front bumper. Maybe another brace to the frame toward the rear

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The springs have very minimal arch and the shackles are in the rear, my links would be the same length and angle as the front half of the spring, with pivots with bushings to allow for the slight amount of horizontal movement.
Just thinking to counter the amount the front axle pushes and to help eliminate the chances of cracking the frame horns under the core support.

Meyers plows used a plow attachment that uses the front axle as the push point. Very common in the 2 ton truck useage.

No bushings either, just pins.

doghead said:

Meyers plows used a plow attachment that uses the front axle as the push point. Very common in the 2 ton truck useage.

No bushings either, just pins.

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Perfect, thanks for the info.
I was pretty sure I've seen it done before, just haven't been able to find an pictures. I was wondering about this one, believe it was for sale by a dealer of surplus in the Eastern part of the Country ,would love to see some pictures of that rear mount point.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...at-winter-is-almost-over)&highlight=snow+plow

I had this done in 2012. I plow a gravel road and move slowly. No problem to date. Chains on all 6, gravel on back to make weight at 42,000 lbs.

autoshopteacher said:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...at-winter-is-almost-over)&highlight=snow+plow

I had this done in 2012. I plow a gravel road and move slowly. No problem to date. Chains on all 6, gravel on back to make weight at 42,000 lbs.

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Very nice! Beautiful truck, not sure how I missed that tread.

good job . I plowed with my 5 ton for 12 yrs for the town, they loved it. had all ndcc's and no weight in it, never had any trouble pushing.. turning a corner was another story and a scary one.

BEASTMASTER said:

good job . I plowed with my 5 ton for 12 yrs for the town, they loved it. had all ndcc's and no weight in it, never had any trouble pushing.. turning a corner was another story and a scary one.

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Any chance you have some picture laying around, especially of the mounting?

I know it is what it is . . . .

but I HATE a plow hanging soooooo far off the front end .

keep them up / in / tighter so there is less leverage on the frame and ends .

my 1ton k30 chevys I have I run old school fishers . I think there up/in the most of the 3 brands . and when plow off truck the truck side is the most ground clearance .

looks good sofar . my only concern is the square tube clip in parts . make sure there real thick wall or make re-enforcement sections and weld them on . the pushing pressure can split that tube.

and as said best NOT to push with the front axle . its a bit of extra work the u-bolts / center pins / leaf eye bolts were not ment to take . make a reverse of the front braces to the rear . triangulated is the key .

Finished yet, Jbulach?

No sorry, been sick and a few other projects got bumped ahead. Hopefully get back at it this weekend.

Hope you feel better soon dude!

Have you solved the hydraulics? The winch uses a lot of flow and your plow will use very little, so sizing should be right.

I think I have the issues that doghead was concerned with worked out in my head. Winch should work fine, for the mean time.

OK, stupid newbie question of the day, but could the plow be raised/lowered and the winch used at the same time, simultaneously? As in winching oneself out of a "whoops" situation while also raising the plow?

71DeuceAK said:

OK, stupid newbie question of the day, but could the plow be raised/lowered and the winch used at the same time, simultaneously? As in winching oneself out of a "whoops" situation while also raising the plow?

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Isn't the plow in the way, unless you could go under it with the cable?

A three circuit manual valve would be able to give some fluid to two, and possibly a third if you were not winching fast. I forget the flow rates but I think the winch max is about 25 gallons/minute where your plow needs maybe 5-6 to lift and less to turn it.

Until I get the hydraulic lift on the truck, I will be using the winch to physically raise the plow. I should be able to chain the plow up and free up the winch. Yes, the plow is in the way so I considered a fairlead on top of the plow or possibly welding a receiver on the plow frame for my snatch block, so I could run the cable under the plow.