Rebuilding the Injection pump

As always, great write-up and pics. I can't recall if you have covered this previously--do you make your own gaskets or is their kits still available? Or do you try to reuse old gaskets?

new Viton o-rings?

tommys2patrick said:

As always, great write-up and pics. I can't recall if you have covered this previously--do you make your own gaskets or is their kits still available? Or do you try to reuse old gaskets?

new Viton o-rings?

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The gasket kit is still available from "Ambac". Call Melody Feaster at 1-800-628-6894 . Tell her you need the gasket kit for the "PSB-6A" Bosch injection pump.

Todays project was installing the operating shaft assembly. It took me a few hours to clean-up the housing and tap out the 1/4" fine threads and the #12 hole for the housing cover, and polish the shaft and bushing. Picture 1 shows the clean shaft for the shaft spring and plate. The spring and plate must move freely (pic 2) . You must replace the 'O' ring on the operating shaft (pic 3) . I installed a new retaining ring to hold the "stop lever" in place (pic 5) . I made a test gauge out of a spare end cover (pictures 6, 7 and 8 ) . My last pictures did not come out showing the housing installed. I'll do it again later.
This will be my last post on this build for a week or so. I need to get some other stuff finished. Priorities !

It's time to install the "Hydraulic Head" . I know it has been posted before but it wouldn't be a rebuild thread without showing how the Hydraulic Head went on.
Pictures 1,2, and 3 show how the pointer and quill shaft gear are suppose to be aligned. Picture 4 shows the 'O' rings installed. The larger one is a "2-230-V75" and the smaller one is a ""2-227-V75" . The V stands for "Viton" . The 75 stands for the durumeter of the 'O' ring . Pictures 5 and 6 show the red marked gear and how it looks installed. Picture 7 shows the head bolted down.

Now to install the governor springs and shims.
Picture 1 shows the operating shaft assembly adjusted. Preliminary adjustments are to set both screws to 5/32".
Picture 2 shows how the operating lever is to be positioned (idle) for taking the governor springs shim measurements.
Picture 3 is taking the measurement for the outer spring, which will have a finished gap of 0.059" .
Since I had a measurement of 0.070" (pic 4) I used a 0.010" shim (pic 5) .
Picture 6 is taking the measurement of the inner spring, which will have a finished gap of 0.158" .
Since I had a measurement of 0.433" I used a 0.275" shim (pic 7) .
Picture 8 shows the shims needed and picture 9 shows them installed along with the gasket. I then installed the cap and bolted it down.

Note: If you make your own "gage" like I did, be sure to add 0.010" to your measurements for the thickness of the gasket.

These pictures show the inner and outer governor springs and how they look installed.

The checkmark in the Thanks box at your postings is just not enough.
Your expertise in your shop I view from 3277 road miles away.
On behalf of everyone viewing your treatise of the fuel injection pumps I Thank You.
These things were built with slide rules, blueprints, and the machines of the day, a long time ago. The clarity of your presentations and summations is much appreciated.
I was a good apprentice 50 years ago, you take me back there again.

frank8003 said:

The checkmark in the Thanks box at your postings is just not enough.
Your expertise in your shop I view from 3277 road miles away.
On behalf of everyone viewing your treatise of the fuel injection pumps I Thank You.
These things were built with slide rules, blueprints, and the machines of the day, a long time ago. The clarity of your presentations and summations is much appreciated.
I was a good apprentice 50 years ago, you take me back there again.

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Thank you Frank. I appreciate your support !

Now it's time to install the previously rebuilt fuel booster pump.

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Now it's time to install the fuel control rod. In picture 2 I'm making sure the plunger sleeve is in the full downward position.
In picture 3 I'm making sure the plunger sleeve pin is in the downward position
In picture 4 I'm installing the fuel control rod assembly. In pictures 5 and 6 I'm slowly moving the rod to engage the pin into the sleeve slot.
Then install the bridge and screws loosely so the fuel control rod can be inserted into the hole (pic 7) . Then tighten screws and install the retaining clip (pic 8 ) .
I'm installing the locking wire into the screws to prevent the screws from backing out (pic 9) .

I appreciate this thread, rustystud, because it is very timely, as my injector pump is toast. A list of viton seals, or a viton kit would be useful, as my IP died after someone dumped 30 gallons of waste gasoline into my deuce's fuel tank. I did not notice it until the waste gasoline had passed through the fuel system, ruining all of the seals. It turns out that waste gasoline will have a much higher percentage of alcohol in it than normal gasoline. The waste gasoline in my fuel tank was 30% alcohol.

FYI, silicone seals, if there are any in the deuce's fuel system, can only handle alcohol at 3%. Whereas, winter gasoline in the USA typically has alcohol at 10%. So, if anyone wants to run their deuce on gasoline, then they will need to dilute it down to about 30%. Whereas, if you want to run waste gasoline, then it may have to be diluted down to 10% of the fuel blend.

OK, I'll try this again but with fewer pictures.
It's time to install the fuel control rod, so in picture 2 I'm making sure the plunger sleeve is in the full downward position. Picture 3 shows the control rod with the 'O' ring installed. The 'O' ring is a "2-013 V75" . There is a difference in the numbers if you go with just "nitrile" instead of "Viton" like I did. In picture 4 I'm making sure the control rod "pin" is facing down as I install it.

Now that the fuel control rod is installed (pic 1 ) , you need to make sure the pin is in the sleeve slot. So gently turn the control lever (pic 2 ) forward until you feel it engage the slot and then the control rod will fully seat. To test and make sure you have the pin in the slot, move the lever back and forth. It should have an arc of 170 degrees forward and backward. You must install the fulcrum rod into the fuel control rod before the bridge screws are tightened (pic 3 ) . After you tighten the screws then install the "clip" (pic 4 ) .

When installing the safety wires there are several ways to do it. This is the way I prefer. I take a length of wire and feed it through the first bolt or screws wire hole until it is about half and half through (pic 1 ) . Then I tightly twist the wire ends together by hand and finish off with a pliers (pic 2) . Then once I have enough length of twisted wire to fill the gap between the bolts (pic 4 ) , I take one end and feed it through the other bolts wire hole (pic 3 ). Then I twist the ends together and cut them off.

After you finish tying off the safety wire you can install the cover with the fuel shutoff rod (which you should have taken apart and cleaned and installed a new 'O' ring) picture 3 .

There are a few odd and ends yet to be installed, like the hub and such. I plan on using "Nord-Locks for almost all the bolts in this pump so I will be going back and installing them and torqueing everything. The last item to rebuild is the "FDC" or Fuel Density Compensator . I don't know if anyone is still using them or if everyone is just bypassing them, but I plan on keeping mine as I found a few tricks to keep it from leaking. Then again there is one major problem I have found on every FDC I took apart and that is the "regulating valve" is always stuck in it's bore. On one FDC I had to remove the brass plug to force the valve out with a punch. I need to make up a fuel pressure tester to properly adjust the FDC so it might take awhile before I post the results.
So for all intent and purpose the fuel injection pump rebuild is done.

Can't thank you enough! I would definitely be interested in your work on the FDC, if you want to extend this "series" a bit further some day. Either way, great post RustyStud!!

tommys2patrick said:

Can't thank you enough! I would definitely be interested in your work on the FDC, if you want to extend this "series" a bit further some day. Either way, great post RustyStud!!

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Thank you Tommy. I need to set-up an area where I can use gasoline and diesel without stinking up the whole house. To calibrate the Fuel Density Compensator you need to run it with both gas and diesel fuel.

This is the Fuel Density Compensator. Pictures 1 and 2 show the 1/16" NPT brass plug I replace the old steel one with. The steel ones are always stuck in the bore and are extremely difficult to remove. You need to remove them though to install a pressure gauge here for calibration testing. Pictures 3 and 4 show the "guide" which is easily bent. Be careful removing and installing it. Be sure to replace the 'O' ring on it (pic 3) . Picture 5 shows the regulating valve that is always stuck. Pictures 6 and 7 show "inclusions" in the casting where the guide slides in. This casting is trash. Be careful checking parts after you clean them. These inclusions kept cutting the 'O' ring when I was trying to install the guide. I finally got the magnifying glass out and saw all the holes in the casting. This unit more then likely had a small oil leak it's whole life.

Awesome, and much thanks, as others have said.