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What did you do to your trailer today.

Tinstar

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NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts.
You will eventually snap off a stud
It allows too much torque to be applied and is a LOT easier to break a stud.

A drop of motor oil will keep it from rusting.
 

Mainsail

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NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts.
You will eventually snap off a stud
It allows too much torque to be applied and is a LOT easier to break a stud.

A drop of motor oil will keep it from rusting.
But I ALWAYS use anti-seize on the lug nuts, and my arm decides the torque, which is always enough and never too much.
 

gimpyrobb

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NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts.
You will eventually snap off a stud
It allows too much torque to be applied and is a LOT easier to break a stud.

A drop of motor oil will keep it from rusting.
As long as you use the lubed torque spec instead of dry, you should be fine. It is important to know the difference, AND to know anti-seize allows for more consistent torque load.
 

gimpyrobb

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Don't get me started on tire shop monkeys!

I found the cheapest BFG tires at walmart of all places. I had them mount the tires to the rims and install on truck(civy chev). When I got home I wanted to check torque and it was WAY F-ing high. I was ready to go back and raise heck, then decided a phone call to the store to re-train the idjits in the tire shop was better for all involved.
 

jhama78

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NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts.
You will eventually snap off a stud
It allows too much torque to be applied and is a LOT easier to break a stud.


A drop of motor oil will keep it from rusting.
I appreciate the concern but will respectfully differ in my own practice. Been using antiseize on wheel studs since I started spinning wrenches on cars/trucks 25+ years ago. Have ALWAYS used a torque wrench on wheels and any other critical fastener. I certify/maintain and install sounding rocket launchers all over the world and am most certainly aware of the difference in lubed and dry torque values on threaded fasteners.

FWIW the studs on the trailer are torqued to 150 ft lbs as measured with a 1/2" drive snap on torque wrench that was recently run through the cal lab. Obviously that is nowhere near the max torque of a 3/4" wheel stud, it was good enough for my 3/4 ton dodge pickup so it should be fine for a trailer that weighs 1/3 of its weight fully loaded. I also wont give myself a hernia trying to break them loose with a breaker bar... :razz::razz::razz:

thanks for the input.

-j-rod
 

Tinstar

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As mentioned it was for the guys who do not use a torque wrench.
Just an air impact and hit go.
Or use a tire shop

Your way is fine since you do it the way it is supposed to be done.

I did not make that clear in my first post.
 

Mainsail

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I rode my bike to the library one day and noticed an attractive woman and her attractive daughter fretting over a flat tire on their full size van. :drool:

"No problem, I'll change that tire for you!" :cool:

Using the stock lug wrench mind you, I kneeled down in front of the wheel and addressed the first lugnut. Wow, there are EIGHT of them. :?

Wow, these are on tight. :-|

Wow, these lugs dry. :-?

Wow, it takes all my upper body strength just to rotate the lug nut, and that's after I've broken the torque by stomping on the wrench. :evil:

Oh, by the way, each lug is two and a half inches long and every one of those nuts sang like a cat with its tail caught in the doorjamb. aua

Over an hour later I'm drenched in sweat and the wheel is finally off. Now I just have to put the spare on..... :doh:

There's a lesson there...somewhere.
 

gottaluvit

Active member
I rode my bike to the library one day and noticed an attractive woman and her attractive daughter fretting over a flat tire on their full size van. :drool:

"No problem, I'll change that tire for you!" :cool:

Using the stock lug wrench mind you, I kneeled down in front of the wheel and addressed the first lugnut. Wow, there are EIGHT of them. :?

Wow, these are on tight. :-|

Wow, these lugs dry. :-?

Wow, it takes all my upper body strength just to rotate the lug nut, and that's after I've broken the torque by stomping on the wrench. :evil:

Oh, by the way, each lug is two and a half inches long and every one of those nuts sang like a cat with its tail caught in the doorjamb. aua

Over an hour later I'm drenched in sweat and the wheel is finally off. Now I just have to put the spare on..... :doh:

There's a lesson there...somewhere.
Bet them ladies were awful glad you showed up!

I personally use a drop or two of motor oil or a dab of grease simply because it is always nearby. Once along the road changing a tire for the first time on a newly aquired vehicle I ran into every nut being a squaller, but I had oil! Pulled the dipstick plenty times to get enough drops on each stud.
 

tobyS

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Mainsail, Don't leave us hanging, tell us the rest of the encounter. It has to be as funny as the first half.
 

gottaluvit

Active member
Ground the driftpin that the crank handle attaches to on the landing gear of the M116 genset trailer. The handle was absent and now my 4-way lug wrench fits it. I took off a wee little at a time until it would just fit over the driftpin with resistance. Now I have a working landing gear.
20170613_101912.jpg20170613_101924.jpg
 

Jericho

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Tons of research out there. Accepted standard is a 10% increase in applied torque when a stud/ nut is lubricated during assembly USAF T.O 1 -1-1A Works on jet engines and rockets sure it works on chevies
 

Tinstar

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Bought two NOS fiberglass gate sets from a SS member.
Will be doing the front gate mod on the tan M101A2 Saturday.

Will be really nice having a gate on both the front and back. I use it a lot.
 

Another Ahab

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Bought two NOS fiberglass gate sets from a SS member.
Will be doing the front gate mod on the tan M101A2 Saturday.

Will be really nice having a gate on both the front and back. I use it a lot.
Just out of curiosity, what kinds of projects do you typically tackle with your trailer?
 
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juanprado

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Bought two NOS fiberglass gate sets from a SS member.
Will be doing the front gate mod on the tan M101A2 Saturday.

Will be really nice having a gate on both the front and back. I use it a lot.
I keep my sides on about 95% of the time without the top. What I like is with the gates folded back when trailer is empty, I can tell the difference in wind resistance. Also make it a snap to load and also long items can stick out with just one gate folded.
 

Tinstar

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I keep my sides on about 95% of the time without the top. What I like is with the gates folded back when trailer is empty, I can tell the difference in wind resistance. Also make it a snap to load and also long items can stick out with just one gate folded.
Exactly.
Thst is the exact reason I'm doing the gate in front also.
When empty, swing gates back.

The green one I have that I restored to original condition looks brand new. I rarely use it.
Will use it as a rough camper when it cools down.

The tan one I use several times a week. Just now hooked it back up.
 

Tinstar

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Just out of curiosity, what kinds of projects do you tackle with your trailer?
Name it.
I own a small ranch, so it gets used a lot.
I haul wood, fuel, water, dirt, ladders, gravel, sand, cow poo, tools, brush, fencing material and on and on.
Use the tailgate a LOT as a portable work bench.

Trailer doesn't sit too high, so when I need to, I put a generator in it and have either a plasma cutter or welder, whichever I need.
When you have tractors and implements, something always needs welded from time to time.

The M101A2 is simply a workhorse.
Will handle just about anything you throw at/in it.

I even accidentally let my brother, driving the tractor with bucket, over load it with dirt til the springs were flat and frame was squashing the bumpers.
Had about 3+ tons in it. WAY overloaded!!
Once dirt was out, all was back to normal with zero damage.


Thats why I'm doing the front gate modification.
Easy access and when not needed, swing gates back and save on fuel.

Best trailer I've ever owned.
 
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MarcusOReallyus

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The M101A2 is simply a workhorse.
Will handle just about anything you throw at/in it.

I even accidentally let my brother, driving the tractor with bucket, over load it with dirt til the springs were flat and frame was squashing the bumpers.
Had about 3 tons in it. WAY overloaded!!
Once dirt was out, all was back to normal with zero damage.
Yep. I have several times had a pallet of bagged mulch on mine, plus 15 bags, for a total of 60 bags, at 60 pounds each. Didn't flinch. Was not bottomed out, either, and gave me no trouble pulling it or stopping it.
 
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