D60/14BFF Axle Swap on M1009

Hi
I have acquired some axles from a former m1008 that I would like to install on my m1009. I understand that I will need to change the perches on the rear and get a conversion u-joint. Let's discuss these tasks and others that I'll need to do so I can start planning. How do I space the perches, where to buy, etc. Thanks in advance.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...Product_Code=14BSS&Category_Code=AxleSwapKits

there are other companies that make all these things but ruffstuff has been great for me and they make it easy with that kit. Easiest would be to get the new axle in and mocked up with those hangers, center the axle under the springs (I'd confirm spacing with the old axle, set up your pinion angle and then weld them in.

The d60 is a bolt in, I'd just get some new u bolts and studs. As far as brakes go I ended up buying a 1 ton master cylinder. The front and rear reservoirs are flipped but I was able to massage the stock lines a touch to swap them.

Thanks. Some other things I'd like to hear about if you have time:
brake lines
ebrakes
driveshaft lengths
steering hookup
tire size you chose and lift size
Swapping the master cylinder (direct fit?)
rear discs worth it?

Rustyshackelford said:

Thanks. Some other things I'd like to hear about if you have time:
brake lines
ebrakes
driveshaft lengths
steering hookup
tire size you chose and lift size
Swapping the master cylinder (direct fit?)
rear discs worth it?

Click to expand...

These are my opinions and experiences.
Others may disagree.
Brake Lines. You can use standard 1984 K30 stuff unless you have a lift kit.

Ebrake and rear discs. These kinda run together so I'll address them as such. I did my first 14B rear disc brakes in the mid 80's long before kits were available. I ran for a long time without an ebrake because of the discs. I later swapped in Caddy calipers for the ebrake. The rear discs are great for off roading and mud but the lack of an ebrake was an issue. The caddy calipers solved that but caddy calipers, specifically the ebrake, doesn't like mud too much. I would rather have the drums these days with the more dependable ebrake.

Drive shaft length. The front requires a little shorter shaft but if lifted, might not need to. The pinion is a little longer on the D60F than the 10 bolt. Rear shaft are about the same length. You can use a combo joint (1310/1350) but you gain nothing in strength going that way. Let me add that as you set up to weld on the new perches, do some studying on driveshaft angles. You ideally should have the same angle at the back of the Tcase as you do at the rear axle.

Steering bolts right up, no issues. You do need the D60F ubolt spring plates, the 10 bolt stuff won't swap over.

Lift will be your choice, figure 2.5 for nice clearance for a 33 of 4-6 for 35s.

I've forgotten everything I had learned on the master cylinder swap, that might take research.

Hope this helps!

A few things to add:

front brake lines: I went with braided lines but you can use 2wd square body lines up front with a lift. They're a few inches longer. Just need to remove a metal bracket that is around the hose.

The master cylinder was a direct bolt on other than having to move the lines because the reservoirs are flipped from the k5 master. I just bent them a touch and they were easily swapped. The main thing to check is to make sure the end with the push rod is the same, there are two different ones. I got mine at advance.

I reused my front shaft and had a double cardon shaft made for the rear so my pinion points at my output shaft.

Im running 315/75/16 ko2's with a 2" lift. I had to modify my fenders quite a bit to fit them.

I have rear discs with no e brake. I never ran with the drums. I used ruffstuff brackets and they work with the 10 bolt front calipers. It certainly stops great but if I want the rears will skid. I've been meaning to add an adjustable proportioning valve but haven't gotten around to it. As far as a parking brake goes, I've read the caddy calipers aren't the greatest. I've been looking into a mechanical wilwood caliper to add to each side but still researching that.

Another opinion to toss out there on the rear disk brake topic.

A positive parking brake is a must have for me, so I have the stock drums. The stock drums are huge , heavy, work well and are plentiful. The only disk brake setup I have seen with a decent parking brake is a 2003 ish (don't know the exact year range) 3/4 ton GM pickup with a gas engine that has a 10.5" rear axle. They run a drum in rotor hat style parking brake. If you must have rear disk brakes this is a pretty nice setup. The entire pinion assembly and carrier / ring gear are a direct swap into the axle. So if you find one you can swap your 4.56 gears and locker with what was in the axle, then resell your 14 bolt with an open carrier and whatever gears the other axle had in it. I set up gears for a guy who did this swap about 2 months ago. It is a spendy way to get rear disk brakes because most wreckers know that it is worth a pretty penny. I think he paid 800 for the axle. The only difference between the newer 10.5" AAM and the old Corp 14 10.5" seems to be the fasteners are metric on the AAM (but it is still 8 on 6.5"), the housing has fins cast into it, and the pinion assembly uses a different size race than the old ones.

One other thing over looked is rear shock mounts.
Not a big deal but they will need to be cut off & relocated.
While doing so I raised mine up for more clearance.

Ok so the brake lines will need to be replaced with ones for a k30?

Rustyshackelford said:

Ok so the brake lines will need to be replaced with ones for a k30?

Click to expand...

Yes, they are different.

Here's what I've gathered so far:
1. D60 direct fit for everything except drive shaft and break lines.
2. Rear discs not really worth it
3. Use k30 brake master cyl. Direct fit with bending lines.
4. 14b requires new spring perches and shock mounts
5. 14b also requires conversion u joint
6. 14b also requires new brake lines
7. I have 4" lift so may not need to change driveshaft.

What else? It can't be this simple

That is pretty much it.

You will probably want to get the correct set of plastic gears for your speedometer.

Like what was allready said be sure to get the spring plates for the Dana 60. It is where the sway bar connects and they ca be a bit tricky to find.

Tell me more about the gears please.
I tossed my sway bar when I lifted it last year.

Rustyshackelford said:

Ok so the brake lines will need to be replaced with ones for a k30?

Click to expand...

The end at the caliper is different.
Get a good set of after market SS braided lines, do the rear while your at it.

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/speedo.htm

That should help out with the speedometer. Gears can be had on eBay or elsewhere. There are two different driven gear holders. You may have to get the other holder for your np208 since are making such a jump in gearing.

Would the speedo gears form the m1008 be useable in the m1009?

They would fit and work, but the ratio would be incorrect unless you are running stock sized tires. Wild guess is that the 1008 would have the other model of driven gear holder with a different offset. You have to use the right holder based off what tooth count driven gear you use. The higer tooth count gears are larger in diameter and you need to use the offset holder so the gears mesh correctly.

Check you drive gear in your transfer case, then use the calculator in the link above to figure out what driven gear to purchase. Pretty easy.

Does any body have some motivating pics of m1009s with one tons?

I don't have any off-roading pics yet but here are some parking shots

What's your lift?