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Idle/ Low RPM Issues

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
This one has me stumped!

The issue I'm having is that the motor won't return to idle correctly, almost like it's starving for fuel. When I let off the gas suddenly, whether shifting gears or just a simple rev of the motor, the RPMs will fall below the idle set point. It sometimes recovers and attempts to stabilize at 750-800 RPM and sometimes it continues to fall and kill the engine. When the motor is cold the issue is least noticeable, the RPMs will still fall below but only by about 100-200 RPM and then semi stabilize at around 750 RPM. When it's at operating temp it's the worst. The strange part is that the severity is not consistent. Some days it will die between every shift of the gears and other days it will only "stumble" between shifts. Also, when I let the motor cool at idle down after driving, it will "hunt" for idle.

Here's the back story...

I decided to a motor swap in my M35a2c over the Christmas holiday with a newer production and lower mileage Thick Deck motor out of my M109 parts truck. The "new" motor, an LDT465-1D with a non G code IP, had been sitting in the truck for around 5 years. I got it started in the parts truck and it ran fine as best as I could tell from the 45 seconds I let it run. Before I pulled it and stuck it in my deuce I went over it and did a bunch of maintenance and upgrades to it while it was easily accessible. Here's what I did before the install.
-All new "plastic" and rubber fuel lines
-Bypassed FDC
-Flame heater deleted
-New Hydraulic Head Orings
-Spin on fuel and oil filter adapters with filters
-New air filter
-All new temp & pressure sending units
-Oil change
-New oil pan gasket
-New air compressor
-New water pump
-New belts
-New clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing
-Added C turbo

So here is what I've done since the install to try and fix this issue.

- I dumped a gallon of Seafoam in the tank and ran it hard for about 60 miles. No change.
-Checked the fuel shut off rod for proper function. No problem found with it.
-Adjusted fuel rate on FDC up and down. No change.
-Adjusted Idle screw up to 950 RPM. Seemed to improve at higher set idle but was still not right.
-Valves adjusted (.12 intake and .25 exhaust)
-New (not a takeout) Hydraulic Head installed. No change
- Checked all fuel lines and filters. No leaks or pinched/crushed lines.
-Checked intank pump for operation. Works.

I've put about 200 miles on it with no improvement. Going down the road it runs excellent and has lots of power. So where do I go from here? I've gone through every thread I could find that seemed similar to this issue and tried the remedies and recommendations to no avail. Right now I'm leaning towards there being an issue with the droop screw adjustment being off. Thoughts on that?

Any help, advice, threads to read, or anything else would be appreciated!!
 
Last edited:

doghead

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Classic signs of a bad Hydraulic head.
 

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Classic signs of a bad Hydraulic head.
That was my initial thought, that's why I went ahead and spent the money for a "brand new" hydraulic head from one of the reputable parts dealers. I'm assuming it's a Chinese repro since it doesn't have the data plate riveted to the side. I did notice that the plunger didn't feel as tight as I would have thought it would be, being new and all. I do understand that a new part is not always a good part, I've had a few parts for other vehicles that were bad right out of the box so I know that this could be the case. I had similar symptoms on the old motor a few years back but it was severely lacking in power in addition to having idle issues. This motor has more power right now than the old one ever seemed to have.
 
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gimpyrobb

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One of the members had a similar issue, but I can't remember who or what the fix was. I seem to think he said it was a governor. Let me do some searching and see what I can dig up.
 

orren

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Since the motor does run at higher RPM most likely the HH piston is leaking from wear and can not maintain enough pressure to open
injectors at lower RPM's. Using none standard and not so clean fuel causes this single piston to wear quickly since it is doing all the work. I found very fine carbon in fuel (WVO, WMO) that easily passes thru the three filters acts like grit under these extremely high hydraulic head pressures.

Using as fine a final filter that you can find may help some. Using only very clean fuel works best with no particulates. Make sure to clean fuel tank and change all fuel filters after changing HH out.

Do you still have the old Hydraulic Head ? Install it and see if it still does the RPM drop thing. Also could be the governor is messed up.
 

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Do you still have the old Hydraulic Head ? Install it and see if it still does the RPM drop thing. Also could be the governor is messed up.

I guess I should have put my repair list in chronological order. The last thing I did was put the new Hydraulic Head in with no change or improvement in the symptoms. I haven't attempted anything else since then.
 

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Since the motor does run at higher RPM most likely the HH piston is leaking from wear and can not maintain enough pressure to open
injectors at lower RPM's. Using none standard and not so clean fuel causes this single piston to wear quickly since it is doing all the work. I found very fine carbon in fuel (WVO, WMO) that easily passes thru the three filters acts like grit under these extremely high hydraulic head pressures.

Using as fine a final filter that you can find may help some. Using only very clean fuel works best with no particulates. Make sure to clean fuel tank and change all fuel filters after changing HH out.

The fuel tank is clean and I am running straight diesel. I ruined an HH running WMO a few years back and have been running nothing but diesel since then, I posted a thread about it outlining the issues I was having then. I am religious about changing the fuel filters, I do it every 6 months regardless of mileage. Probably over kill but I like to think it an easy way to prevent a fuel related issue when you are on the road. I had been running the WIX 33540 as a final filter which, if I remember right, is a 2 micron filter. I now have jatonka's spin-on kit with the filters he provided so I am not sure what micron they are.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?105791-HH-Orings-replaced-now-low-power&highlight=

I am personally leaning away from it being an HH issue simply because the truck runs excellent except for idle and the inconsistency of it acting up. I drove it to work last night and the issue was there but not nearly as bad as it sometimes is. I cannot find a scenario where it will consistently act up.

In the case of the governor possibly being the culprit, can someone educate me on how it works and what its function is? If I can understand how it works and what its function is regarding the whole fuel delivery process then I can apply that to the symptoms I'm seeing and hopefully give some better detail for y'all to help me with troubleshooting. I'll try to look it up in the TM today if I can find the time but does someone know the correct TM and section off the top of their head to save me a little time?

Thanks everyone for the replies!!
 

gimpyrobb

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No, I don't believe its hydraulic head related either, but I do believe its Ip related. I couldn't find the thread I was looking for last night.
 

rustystud

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The correct TM is "TM 9-2910-226-35" .

View attachment Scan0168.pdfView attachment Scan0169.pdfView attachment Scan0170.pdf

You can check the status of your governor springs by unbolting the two end cap bolts and removing the cap. The two springs will come out along with their shims so be careful and make sure you have everything and nothing drops into the ground. They install the same way. I have found broken springs here. Also the governor weights could be sticking or even broken. You can look inside with a flashlight or a borescope and see if they are OK.
 

Floridianson

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rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
I would just use this for a start. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116454-LDS465-1-Multifuel-Engine-Troubleshooting-Manual.
By starting at the top go through the troubleshooting manual and double check everything from timing to fuel pressure's. Then I might move on to what you may not have done correct or may not be seeing. We have had bad delivery valves to sticking overflow valves. Jumping around just takes more time.
I agree that is a good starting point.
 

sofmatchstaff

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Las Vegas
I am in the middle of the exact same problem, wont idle below 1000rpm and wont catch the idle on the way down from higher rpm, just keeps going down and quits. It wont respond to a full throttle application after its passed 1000rpm on the way down. I am going to change out the HH with a spare, quality unknown, but available, will be watching theis thread with interest.

Siversate55 has helped a bunch here locally, thanks Warren...

AL
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
I am in the middle of the exact same problem, wont idle below 1000rpm and wont catch the idle on the way down from higher rpm, just keeps going down and quits. It wont respond to a full throttle application after its passed 1000rpm on the way down. I am going to change out the HH with a spare, quality unknown, but available, will be watching theis thread with interest.

Siversate55 has helped a bunch here locally, thanks Warren...

AL

If it's not the hydraulic head then the governor is not kicking it and allowing the "Plunger Sleeve" to move from the full drain position.
 

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
If it's not the hydraulic head then the governor is not kicking it and allowing the "Plunger Sleeve" to move from the full drain position.
Would this be a problem with the springs and shims or more likely to be a problem with the weights not opening and closing properly?


I haven't had a chance to do any more troubleshooting on it, it spent a week at the shop getting a new set of tires and the weather and work have not been cooperating!! Looks like it's going to 50mph winds again on my days off this week so I may just print the pages I need in the manuals that have been posted, grab one of my old pumps and couple of adult beverages and take it apart to see how the governor assembly works and is is setup. Would rather potentially mess up an old parts pump than the one on the truck!
 

searls84

Member
195
6
18
Location
Las Cruces, NM
I would just use this for a start. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116454-LDS465-1-Multifuel-Engine-Troubleshooting-Manual.
By starting at the top go through the troubleshooting manual and double check everything from timing to fuel pressure's. Then I might move on to what you may not have done correct or may not be seeing. We have had bad delivery valves to sticking overflow valves. Jumping around just takes more time.


I absolutely agree this is the best approach. I just don't have the proper gauges to test the fuel pressures and I'm not a good enough mechanic to confidently do some of the things that are required in the troubleshooting list. If the governor doesn't turn out to be the issue, I have a NOS LDS pump I'll stick on and be done with it, but hopefully it doesn't come to that!
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Woodinville, Washington
Would this be a problem with the springs and shims or more likely to be a problem with the weights not opening and closing properly?


I haven't had a chance to do any more troubleshooting on it, it spent a week at the shop getting a new set of tires and the weather and work have not been cooperating!! Looks like it's going to 50mph winds again on my days off this week so I may just print the pages I need in the manuals that have been posted, grab one of my old pumps and couple of adult beverages and take it apart to see how the governor assembly works and is is setup. Would rather potentially mess up an old parts pump than the one on the truck!
Something is sticking that is for sure. We just need to find it. Now the first thing I would do is remove the fuel shut-off cover over the operating lever and plunger sleeve and remove the linkage from the rod. See if the sleeve moves freely. Then "push and pull" the operating linkage to see if it freely moves. If everything seems normal then put it back together and remove the back cover of the governor assembly. This is the round cover with two 1/4" bolts. Like I said earlier the springs are behind this and you must be careful to remove them as there are also shims here and replace them exactly like they came out. I've seen broken springs here and also a frozen
"friction drive spider" . That cannot be checked on the truck though. If everything appears OK here then you will need to remove the pump as it is something else broken inside. I've also found broken "timing advance" units that still rotated the pump but would allow the pump to have crazy timing and RPM shifts. Yours doesn't sound like that at all though. Let us know what you find.
 
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