MEP-802A has power at the convenient outlets but no power at the terminals.

My MEP-802A has power at the convenient outlets. However, it has no power at the terminals. The unit sets as 120V 1PH at DC CONTROL POWER circuit breaker. Frequency sets at 60MHz.at Frequency Adjust Control. VM-AM transfer switch sets at 3 O'clock (L3-L1/1). Did I miss anything? Where should I look, first? I am reading the manuals now.

Any suggestions or helps are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Make sure the genset is off then open the control panel and cycle the 120 120/240 switch lots of times. That might be all it takes. I dont think you have the VM-AM switch set for 120V 1 Phase, it should be at the 5:00 position I think.

BadRobot said:

My MEP-802A has power at the convenient outlets. However, it has no power at the terminals. The unit sets as 120V 1PH at DC CONTROL POWER circuit breaker. Frequency sets at 60MHz.at Frequency Adjust Control. VM-AM transfer switch sets at 3 O'clock (L3-L1/1). Did I miss anything? Where should I look, first? I am reading the manuals now.

Any suggestions or helps are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

I read a few times toggling the contactor open closed switch quite a few times.

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BadRobot said:

My MEP-802A has power at the convenient outlets. However, it has no power at the terminals. The unit sets as 120V 1PH at DC CONTROL POWER circuit breaker. Frequency sets at 60MHz.at Frequency Adjust Control. VM-AM transfer switch sets at 3 O'clock (L3-L1/1). Did I miss anything? Where should I look, first? I am reading the manuals now.

Any suggestions or helps are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

I believe your control panel switch is currently set to 120/240 Single Phase (L3-L1 are both 120 legs). Shut the machine down, and open the control panel and switch the internal switch to 120/240 Single and turn back on and retest. Test for voltage on the lines again.

craigc said:

Make sure the genset is off then open the control panel and cycle the 120 120/240 switch lots of times. That might be all it takes. I dont think you have the VM-AM switch set for 120V 1 Phase, it should be at the 5:00 position I think.

Click to expand...

You're right. It is 5 o'clock position. I will test it when I get home tonight.

Thanks,

Light in the Dark said:

I believe your control panel switch is currently set to 120/240 Single Phase (L3-L1 are both 120 legs). Shut the machine down, and open the control panel and switch the internal switch to 120/240 Single and turn back on and retest. Test for voltage on the lines again.

Click to expand...

This is what I setup.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lt0R_Dns9s&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

Use 120/240 then you should be good

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Grizzlypower2001 said:

Use 120/240 then you should be good

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Click to expand...

Are you sure about that? If you look at the first picture at the bottom, 120V - L3, N and it matches with second picture at 5 o'clock. I am not an expert but I will try it anyway.

Thanks,

Ahh, I see that now. Don't take this wrong, but you are using the clamp to measure amps and NOT volts correct?

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Grizzlypower2001 said:

Ahh, I see that now. Don't take this wrong, but you are using the clamp to measure amps and NOT volts correct?

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Click to expand...

Yes, I used the clamp. I got the same result when I used multimeter between L3 / N. The GenSet also connects to a transfer switch since there are 2 units on a trailer. There is no light indicator on the transfer switch neither. The second unit has a light on at the transfer switch when I switch it on.

Thanks,

I don't understand why you have L1, L2, and L3 all with wires? To get 120 single you only need to connect L3 and N (and it does not appear you have N/L0 wired). I think you need to be very careful because none of what I see looks right. Did you connect these leads on your cord to the lugs, or did the machine arrive wired this way?

I would disconnect the "transfer switch" which might be a generator parallel synchronizer to sync 2 gensets and I'm not sure but it maybe that device works on the 120/240 configuration. Have nothing on the output lugs and turn on the contractor then measure with the 2 probes from your meter set on Volts AC between L3 and Neutral or switch the switches to 120/240 and check between L1-N and L3-N then between L1-L3 to check both.
Just break the system down to the simplest function then when you get each genset producing power read the TM on the switch to ensure the switch is wired correctly.
Hope this helps

Light in the Dark said:

I don't understand why you have L1, L2, and L3 all with wires? To get 120 single you only need to connect L3 and N (and it does not appear you have N/L0 wired). I think you need to be very careful because none of what I see looks right. Did you connect these leads on your cord to the lugs, or did the machine arrive wired this way?

Click to expand...

It was wired like this since there are 2 units on a M1102 trailer with transfer switch. As far as I know, if the unit configures as 120V 1PH, only L3 / N will be used. There should not have any power on terminal L1 or L2. I just measure power between L3 and N.

craigc said:

I would disconnect the "transfer switch" which might be a generator parallel synchronizer to sync 2 gensets and I'm not sure but it maybe that device works on the 120/240 configuration. Have nothing on the output lugs and turn on the contractor then measure with the 2 probes from your meter set on Volts AC between L3 and Neutral or switch the switches to 120/240 and check between L1-N and L3-N then between L1-L3 to check both.
Just break the system down to the simplest function then when you get each genset producing power read the TM on the switch to ensure the switch is wired correctly.
Hope this helps

Click to expand...

Yes, I can do this when I get home tonight.

Thanks,

I forgot to mention if your like me I would take a couple of pictures to make sure it all goes back together again correctly presuming it was wired correctly from the git-go.

I know this may seem dumb but did you hit the AC interrupter switch to closed? You can think of it as the "breaker" for the lugs.

That was my thought as well, only that the contactor was not functional. Not familiar with dual gen sets on trailer but is there an interlock that prevents you dumping both gens on same bus. If so it could be preventing contactor from pulling in. Just food for thought.

The transfer switch on the trailer, just uses 2 large contact relays to transfer power from the generators to the load. The contact relays are just like what is used in the generator. No matter what, he should be able to generate power to the lugs anytime.

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All of you guys need to go back a step!! No one has asked if the CB-1 is closed. No CB-1, no power. Everyone is assuming that CB-1 is closing. Assumptions ALWAYS get me in trouble. The gen set obviously makes power. The 110 volt outlets work. THe 110 volt outlets are separate from the main load terminals. So you really need to go get the books, start with the trouble shooting diagram, and go from there. The easiest way to fix a gen set, (especially if you are new to the set) is to go by the troubleshooting guide.

Everyone had good ideas. Each and everyone was right on the nose. But you need to start at the beginning, not the middle. Reading the operator's manual is a good first step. It explains how the S-6, AM/VM Transfer switch and the S-8 Voltage Reconnection switch needs to be set up, in relation to one another, for different voltages.

Then you need to read the manual on your power Unit. It tells you how and why of hooking up both gen set. The gen sets on your PU set, and not designed to be hooked up together, and the S8's in different positions. COULD LEAD TO BIG PROBLEMS. Bad Robot, slow down. Read first. Then you will whip this problem.

Thanks Guyfang, you are absolutely right. As we say in the electronics industry "RTFM". I've chased my own tail so to speak by not starting from the beginning. We all want to help and forget about the simple stuff.