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Canadian M152 Camper/Bugout Mods

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
8/12/18. Backed the M152 out of the garage for the first time in approximately 1 year. Good to see it in the sun. 8-12-1.jpgFront fenders are removed preparing for engine removal. We will briefly fire up the engine and take a video of it running for the future buyer, if any. 8-12-2.jpgHigh Lift Patriot series 60" jack with LED Zombie lights on custom mounts.8-12-3.jpg Folding rear deck with Rotopax fuel cans and Pioneer tool rack.8-12-5.jpgDecided to NOT do the dual rear wheels. Got playing with spacers and such and got a great look with just two wheels. Save time and money not doing rear fenders. Will put spare back on driver's door and second spare on expedition rack.8-12-6.jpgFolding deck in open position with clip-on steps.8-12-7.jpg8-12-10.jpgRoommate Larry testing the deck8-12-8.jpg8-12-9.jpgInterior almost ready for soda blast and rust protection before 1.5" rigid polystyrene R7 insulation and panel replacement. 24" flatscreen on Mor-ryde locking mount. Bunk bed cleats are below windows. These really stiffened up the box. Large matching expedition rack not on top. It's pretty heavy and will require about 4 people to safely hoist it into position.
Glenn
 

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thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
That sure doesn't look like you lounging on the deck!
Did you ever source a second front axle?
That's Larry on the deck. Yes, I am having a Dana 60 built from scratch cut to the width needed, new discs and calipers, 4.10 ratio, Spartan lunchbox locker, 35 spline, chromemoly axles, vintage Selectro locking hubs, AFE ribbed aluminum diff. cover, olive drab paint. Should be done in a month. Will let you know when swapping front axles.
Glenn
 

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Actually found some Dana 60 for sale. They were always the wrong ratio or missing this or that, or needing a rebuild or, or, or. Finally realized that after spending money to shorten and rebuild another's problem axle, I could have just built one from scratch for less. Over-built and a perfect fit installed for under $2,200. Still will be one of the most expensive items on the truck. The rear axle is open differential, so counting on this heavy duty, front locker to save my butt.
 

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
8/15/18 Here are the interior drawings. My 30 year old 486 DX66, DOS 5.0 awesome cadd computer finally died. It was like someone cut my hands off. Installed the only cad software that would load on my XP computer (Libra Cad) and wrestled through the stupid learning curve. End product takes 4 times as long to draw with 4 times worse results. Oh well, here they are. The refrigerator/freezer is 12 volts or 120 volts when plugged into shore power or generator. It's on casters and will be used as rolling stool for cooking/cleaning and a coffee table for the sofa. Dometic portable toilet can go in a 36" square shower tent anywhere. These can be secured to deck at night for easier access. 80 watt Zamp folding solar panel plugs into existing driver's side power outlet with 20' cable - put panel in sun, park in the shade.
GlennFloor Plan.jpgSink Wall.jpgBed Wall.jpgEnd Wall.jpg
 
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thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Dana 60 is coming along slowly the fault of the builder. Everything he asks of me is completed in two days, but takes weeks to get anything from him. Just got the axle housing delivered with passenger side loosely assembled and placed it under the truck. The single wheel spindle is about 3" too short to use dually wheels on. Will replace with a dually spindle to get a better wms and the tire barely under the fender - similar to stock. The driver's side will need to be shortened a fair amount. Everything axle related is ready to go, red painted loaded calipers and axle shafts, AFE diff cover, Spartan locker, etc. Le's get 'er done.

The Isuzu diesel has an integral power steering pump capable of 1250 psi, so am installing both power steering and hydroboost brakes with outboard dual return resevoir from a F350. Dana 60 drag link is almost near stock location so original sea-saw steering linkage will plop onto it. The hydroboost unit was stupid easy to install under the floor with a $32 mounting plate found on eBay and will retain the original brake pedal - no need for firewall conversion. With hydroboosted dual circuit master and four wheel discs, this truck willl easily lock all fours. Want to move the steering wheel much closer to the dash for way more clearance in the cab. Will shorten the steering shaft when installing the power steering box. Want to retain the original steering wheel.

Took a final video of the Canadian 251 ci engine running, then pulled and placed it on a rolling dolly. It's ready to go to a new home comlete with clutch, bell housing, transmission, gen/alt/reg -everthng. Less than 30,000 miles. It looks really good and, with a bit of elbow grease, rebuilt fuel pump and carburator, detailing and fresh paint, will look and run like new. SOMEONE - PLEASE COME AND GET IT!!! $1,300 obo.
 

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Update 9/24/19

Well ... it's been over a year since my last M152 update. Much has been done, learned and redone. After 1.5 years of trying, the origiinal, running 251 engine finally sold on eBay for $500 complete with clutch and transmission. Other items sold like axles, wheels, Southwind heater (believe it or not) and cabin ducts.

The custom front Dana 60 axle build turned into a 10 month nightmare involving two different, "highly recommended" local Phoenix shops. Instead of shortening the Dana 60 housing the instructed 3-1/8", they lopped off 4-5/8" making the housing unusable. Had to deal with the BBB, but did get all my money back. Bought another 4.10 Dana 60 off eBay and have it under the truck so I can now finally install the engine. After witnessing these boneheads, I will be shortening the axle myself when the truck is near completion. So much for out-sourcing to save time ... LOL! 10 month waste.

Worked on the dash - 9 new Autometer gauges - looks fantastic. Had to widen the dashboard cut to fit. Installed the Southern Air Mini-Kool and Gobi heater - looks great. The exposed, metal Gobi will be painted olive drab. That Mini-Kool blows hard - 13' easy. The center duct blows into the camper box and hits the back door. Had to relocate the cowl vent actuator a bit towards the passenger side - got that working clickity-click smooth.

27" wide dually rear tubs made from NOS M37 fenders. Getting ready to make the cab cuts and install the tubs with body welting. Will look awesome.

Large roof rack finally in position. My roommate, Larry, surprised me with the heavy rack installed on top of the truck after I came home from a vacation. I thought it would take 4 people to lift - he figured out how to do it by himself! Now, we can raise and lower the rack for powder coat, etc. The rack floor is greenhouse decking - UV proof plastic, light and sturdy. I can sleep up there under the stars, if desired. Folding steps on each side of the rear door. Designed the rack's expanded metal sides to mimic the window grids below. Storage space is at a premium, so have several, wooden, Korean war era, military crates to populate the rack. Authentic Nathan K3LA train horn is on a real quilling valve and stupid loud. It's on a 1.5 gallon air tank, so can't get too creative - which is probably a good thing. 12v ATV winch in rear of rack will aid my aging bones raising and lowering the heavy, bifold rear deck/motorcycle ramp. Want the truck single person capable.

Many more things are in the works. Electrical diagrams finished. Have many parts, need to order more. All new wiring, panel, weatherpak connectors, etc. Almost everything will be LED. Looking at several options for power steering. Getting ready to install the turbo diesel. Debating whether to switch to a 700R4 automatic and 208 transfer instead of the manual NV4500 and divorced 205 transfer. Install would be easier with less cross-members and drive shafts. Over Memorial Day, We took Larry's 1951 Willys pickup to Moab and literally beat the crap out of it. He has a 700R4/208 combo and I was super-impressed. More responsive than the 4L80E in my Willys truck. It easily conquered everything demanded of it and shifted each gear selection RIGHT NOW - has no computer to think about the shift like on mine. I'm no spring chicken and may feel better with the 700R4 since this truck will be subjected to high mileage - all 4 corners and Alaska or bust. The hard part is the Isuzu to GM trans adapter. More study = more time.

The build is taking longer than expected because of many unplanned interruptions. Cold water pipe break taking out two rooms of my house, mold removal, insurance claim, walls, bathroom and bedroom reconstruction. Ouch - left rotator cuff surgery, recovery. Volunteering more time with Saint Vincent de Paul, etc. The deal is, stay the course, never compromise attention to detail and I will cherish this extremely capable and fun truck forever.

Glenn9-24-19-1.jpg9-24-19-2.jpg9-24-19-3.jpg9-24-19-4.jpg9-24-19-5.jpg9-24-19-6.jpg9-24-19-8.jpg9-24-19-10.jpg9-24-19-11.jpg9-24-19-12.jpg9-24-19-13.jpg
 

Attachments

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Update 9/24/19

Well ... it's been over a year since my last M152 update. Much has been done, learned and redone. After 1.5 years of trying, the origiinal, running 251 engine finally sold on eBay for $500 complete with clutch and transmission. Other items sold like axles, wheels, Southwind heater (believe it or not) and cabin ducts.

The custom front Dana 60 axle build turned into a 10 month nightmare involving two different, "highly recommended" local Phoenix shops. Instead of shortening the Dana 60 housing the instructed 3-1/8", they lopped off 4-5/8" making the housing unusable. Had to deal with the BBB, but did get all my money back. Bought another 4.10 Dana 60 off eBay and have it under the truck so I can now finally install the engine. After witnessing these boneheads, I will be shortening the axle myself when the truck is near completion. So much for out-sourcing to save time ... LOL! 10 month waste.

Worked on the dash - 9 new Autometer gauges - looks fantastic. Had to widen the dashboard cut to fit. Installed the Southern Air Mini-Kool and Gobi heater - looks great. The exposed, metal Gobi will be painted olive drab. That Mini-Kool blows hard - 13' easy. The center duct blows into the camper box and hits the back door. Had to relocate the cowl vent actuator a bit towards the passenger side - got that working clickity-click smooth.

27" wide dually rear tubs made from NOS M37 fenders. Getting ready to make the cab cuts and install the tubs with body welting. Will look awesome.

Large roof rack finally in position. My roommate, Larry, surprised me with the heavy rack installed on top of the truck after I came home from a vacation. I thought it would take 4 people to lift - he figured out how to do it by himself! Now, we can raise and lower the rack for powder coat, etc. The rack floor is greenhouse decking - UV proof plastic, light and sturdy. I can sleep up there under the stars, if desired. Folding steps on each side of the rear door. Designed the rack's expanded metal sides to mimic the window grids below. Storage space is at a premium, so have several, wooden, Korean war era, military crates to populate the rack. Authentic Nathan K3LA train horn is on a real quilling valve and stupid loud. It's on a 1.5 gallon air tank, so can't get too creative - which is probably a good thing. 12v ATV winch in rear of rack will aid my aging bones raising and lowering the heavy, bifold rear deck/motorcycle ramp. Want the truck single person capable.

Many more things are in the works. Electrical diagrams finished. Have many parts, need to order more. All new wiring, panel, weatherpak connectors, etc. Almost everything will be LED. Looking at several options for power steering. Getting ready to install the turbo diesel. Debating whether to switch to a 700R4 automatic and 208 transfer instead of the manual NV4500 and divorced 205 transfer. Install would be easier with less cross-members and drive shafts. Over Memorial Day, We took Larry's 1951 Willys pickup to Moab and literally beat the crap out of it. He has a 700R4/208 combo and I was super-impressed. More responsive than the 4L80E in my Willys truck. It easily conquered everything demanded of it and shifted each gear selection RIGHT NOW - has no computer to think about the shift like on mine. I'm no spring chicken and may feel better with the 700R4 since this truck will be subjected to high mileage - all 4 corners and Alaska or bust. The hard part is the Isuzu to GM trans adapter. More study = more time.

The build is taking longer than expected because of many unplanned interruptions. Cold water pipe break taking out two rooms of my house, mold removal, insurance claim, walls, bathroom and bedroom reconstruction. Ouch - left rotator cuff surgery, recovery. Volunteering more time with Saint Vincent de Paul, etc. The deal is, stay the course, never compromise attention to detail and I will cherish this extremely capable and fun truck forever.

GlennView attachment 777500View attachment 777501View attachment 777502View attachment 777503View attachment 777504View attachment 777505View attachment 777507View attachment 777509View attachment 777510View attachment 777511View attachment 777512
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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4,139
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
The custom front Dana 60 axle build turned into a 10 month nightmare involving two different, "highly recommended" local Phoenix shops. Instead of shortening the Dana 60 housing the instructed 3-1/8", they lopped off 4-5/8" making the housing unusable.

Volunteering more time with Saint Vincent de Paul, etc. The deal is, stay the course, never compromise attention to detail and I will cherish this extremely capable and fun truck forever.
Glenn
What's the old carpenter's saying:

- Measure twice, cut once, screw up anyway, start over

That's it, right?!

You have a good outlook, thmpr, more power to you. A sense of humor goes a long way in this world.

Saint Vincent, is he the patron saint of Patience (or is it maybe Bad Breaks)?!
 

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Need some quick opinions. Installing the rear dually fender tubs made from NOS M37 rear fenders extended to 27" deep. Already cut the existing wheel well openings with tubs pushed as high as possible before interfering with other items. They look awesome with 5/16" welting between fender and box. The question is ... do the fenders need to be trimmed up higher? They look a little "low" to me. Here is a photoshop with uncut and cut. Thinking of matching the leading edge of the box; which is lower than the trailing edge. In rear, tubs will be visible a few inches.Rear Fender Trimmed.jpg What do you think?
 

thmpr

Active member
80
136
33
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Update 12/5/19
Both left and right wheel tubs are cut and installed with 5/16" welting. They look quite beefy. The hard part was getting the right side to match the installed left side. After monkeying around with the foam-core template for a while, I realized I could simply invert and clamp the left cut-off to the right box and cut against it. Matched openings. The leading edge of the fender aligns with the bottom edge of the box. We clamped a board to the box bottom for the fender to rest on to be absolutely sure. Had to use a jack to snug the fender up and squeeze the welting tight before drilling and bolting in place. Then, had to match the rear fender heights. That was tough. Measuring from the ground just did not look right, so wound up eyeballing with masking tape and standing far back for a look. One photo shows how the NOS M37 fender was widened and bolt flange added. The wheel opening is larger per the cut template, but not as high as on a M37 because of existing M152 wheel tub interference. Also, the new fenders were bolted to the existing tub with 8 bolts each. The minor arc left exposed on the leading edge of the box/fender intersection will be filled before the vinyl wrap.

Attention now turning to preparing and painting the engine/trans for install. Have decided to stay with the freshly-rebuilt, manual, NV4500 transmission. I already have it, the clutch, bearing, flywheel, adapter plate, etc is all brand new. The switch to automatic is just too difficult at this time and must use an older, outdated 4L80e. I will wait for the new 6 and 8 speeds to become more available and drop in price. Stand-alone controller boxes are just now becoming available for them. If I feel like changing to an automatic in the future, I'll take it to a shop and have it done. Getting older and hurting more.
Glenn12-5-19-1.jpg12-5-19-2.jpg12-5-19-3a.jpg12-5-19-3b.jpg12-5-19-4.jpg12-5-19-5.jpg12-5-19-6.jpg12-5-19-7.jpg12-5-19-8.jpg
 
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