What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

agazza2 said:

Purchased a bunch of FMTV parts...., roof headliner,

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before you install it... could we talk you into grabbing some news paper.... tape it together (or pattern making paper from hobby shop) and trace out the headliner? Maybe we could send that to someone in here that can CAD it from there too?

coachgeo said:

before you install it... could we talk you into grabbing some news paper.... tape it together (or pattern making paper from hobby shop) and trace out the headliner? Maybe we could send that to someone in here that can CAD it from there too?

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Absolutely. I will do it this coming weekend.

Paint air cleaner/snorkle

grrr... broke the used replacement door handle....

grr... ripped an air brake line

... removed sway bar from previous axle... decided game plan on how to install it on the swapped in intermediate axle and how we are going to mount shocks. Sadly we will have to remove the big nub one the power divider that Meritor put there for holding the unit with. It hits a shock absorber. The nub is very convenient .. fits forklift forks perfectly. Hopefully we can leave enough of it for a bolt hole or two to temporary mount something in that spot for same purpose. Was hoping to put the shocks behind this axle but and sway bar more above axle.... but no go.... way to much work and re-engineering.

My sway bar bushings came in (still need to order the upper set)
Picked up a set of Monroe shocks that look like they will be a fit (will confirm upon arrival)
Started putting together my on-board tool kit
Got a new 20 ton air/hydraulic jack
Picked up a set of 12 ton jack stands
Got a set of big box wrenches (was sorely missing anything over 3/4")
Assembled my new blasting cabinet (Horror Freight, but I got all the items needed to modify it into a nice setup)
*mostly needed this for my two off-road cars in fab/paint currently but it will come in handy for little stuff on the truck build

New little Shop-Vac

Third from Texas- Looking forward to seeing how those shocks work. I am researching also a replacement off the shelf shock from truck parts companies.

Third From Texas said:

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Picked up a set of Monroe shocks that look like they will be a fit (will confirm upon arrival)

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I'm interested as well.

for the shocks you will have to come up with sleeve to use them. both shock eyes take 5/8" bolt according to seller. On our trucks the top bolt is 7/8ths

]

Had tow adapters made

Installed Prius bucket seats




Installed an 18" steering wheel

He run over Prius first lol.

agazza2 said:

Third from Texas- Looking forward to seeing how those shocks work. I am researching also a replacement off the shelf shock from truck parts companies.

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I'll keep y'all updated.

CoachGeo was the first to order these and they should be coming in pretty quick.

These were the shocks. Assuming that they work, Monroe should be able to cross-ref them to a current product code.

Direct Action Shock Absorber Military MRAP RG-31
BAE Systems Land Systems
Made by Monroe
Shock Compressed is 20.5 inches long
Bolt holes 11/16" for 5/8" bolts


Part # R0046965
R0046965-0301
CO5OD1


NSN # 2510-01-540-6552
2510-01-548-1178

Third From Texas said:

...CoachGeo was the first to order these and they should be coming in pretty quick....

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someone had ordered one pair before I did. Not sure who. I've so much going on not sure they will get installed quick. We are working on installing the sway bar to the replacement rear axle and then will get to shocks. Though can send more detailed pics when they come in.

coachgeo said:

grrr... broke the used replacement door handle....

grr... ripped an air brake line

... removed sway bar from previous axle... decided game plan on how to install it on the swapped in intermediate axle and how we are going to mount shocks. Sadly we will have to remove the big nub one the power divider that Meritor put there for holding the unit with. It hits a shock absorber. The nub is very convenient .. fits forklift forks perfectly. Hopefully we can leave enough of it for a bolt hole or two to temporary mount something in that spot for same purpose. Was hoping to put the shocks behind this axle but and sway bar more above axle.... but no go.... way to much work and re-engineering.

Click to expand...

Do we need a swaybar? Well, maybe you expedition camper guys do....thoughts?

olly hondro said:

Do we need a swaybar? Well, maybe you expedition camper guys do....thoughts?

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the rear you could make a disconnect and a hanger for the bar real easy for testing or longer. Don't have a mental picture of the front one right now but.... think same for front.

Just put a 3/4" hitch pin in place of the bolt at the top of the sway bar shackle ?

olly hondro said:

Just put a 3/4" hitch pin in place of the bolt at the top of the sway bar shackle ?...

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sounds about right. then a strap to hold sway bar loosely out of way when detached. If you want to make it a sliding unit.. like the old Jeep TJ's... got an idea for you. Something like the old TK sliders they use to make for Jeep TJ's.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/featur...tk-sliders-rear-swaybar-connectors-11998.html

agazza2 said:

Third from Texas- Looking forward to seeing how those shocks work. I am researching also a replacement off the shelf shock from truck parts companies.

Click to expand...

Andyrv6av8r said:

I'm interested as well.

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I've not installed mine yet. I'm waiting util I have time to take off my OEM's and test them.

But Sean Fillner did a video of his installation.

https://youtu.be/zU562ahYO8c

I knew my cab wasn't locking into the full upright position (where the locking bar flattens out into the safe position). So following suggestions others have made.
*image and walk-thru credited to Tom Bauer https://www.facebook.com/groups/1607576859556624/

Backed the nut off the inboard side
Freed the bolt on the outboard side so it could turn
Used a large screwdriver to pry the center cam loose (it has an upper and lower slot for the main lift pin on the actuator to ride in)
Carefully tapped the thin metal plate (inboard) with a hammer until it was free to rotate back into position (mine was spun counterclockwise ~15°)

At that point the cab slid into the full upright position and the locking bar flattened out into the safe and locked position. I greased the cam and surrounding plate and, re-torqued the inboard nut, and cycled the cab thru it's full range of raised and lowered.

It's a **** of a thing to see the cab come over center now. As the mechanism shifts past center (in either direction) there is a dramatic shift as the weight is distributed between the two slots of the cam (the weight shifts from the actuator to the frame in the locked position and visa-versa).

I feel a **** of a lot safer now, knowing that the cab is locked into the safe position while I'm under it. And the weight of the cab is now off the hydraulic cylinder when lowered.

Passed 1995 LVAD M1081 LMTV "Mad Max" onto its new owner, Joe.