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No, the power steering pump needs to develop pressure in order for the clutch to disengage. If you want to test the clutch with the engine off (so you don't lose your fingers grabbing the fan), apply pressure to the line with compressed air. Fan should spin easily. If it's dragging, the clutch is shot.
So it sounds like what a couple of the guys here were saying... You could see the hydraulic system move the fan in an out, so the hydraulics were working. Therefore, it was a clutch assembly problem. There was a suggestion to do something to break it free, like hook an air line up to it or knock on the housing with a mallet. Seems that while that didn't immediately work for you, cycling it numerous times in succession did work. Glad to see you have success!
disconnect the line going to the front of the fan/clutch and apply there.
Sorry if this is an obvious question - but - disconnect it at the clutch (see pic)? Should I expect to lose any fluid when I disconnect it?
I wouldn't disconnect at the clutch. Follow the hose from the clutch back to the caddy value next to the washer fluid. Disconnect there and apply air. Honestly I didn't loose any fluid.
Problem fixed. Took quite a bit of time with the air and some light taps - but it eventually broke free. Amazing how much quieter it is too. Oddly enough - the TDM was unplugged too (wires were underneath the cadillac valve). Plugged it in and the fan disengaged. Took it for a ride until it reach 220 and the fan kicked on. It's in the low 60s here this morning - while doing some easy driving the temp didn't want to get above 210.
So, all you really needed to do was plug the connectors back together? The fan will always run constantly with that unplugged.
i didn't have too. System works great.
have you followed this whole thread?
