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Unimog axle part ID

tobyS

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I have two of these from a GL lot and hope somebody needs them real bad and they are worth lots of money. I'm not holding my breath for the stampede to happen.

Can you help me identify them and the likelihood of getting anyone to buy the two (same part, not a left and right if there is such a thing, I think).
 

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The FLU farm

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Last I heard, people were paying upwards of $450 a piece...to get rid of them.
But do try contacting Scott at Expedition Imports. He just might buy them.
 

tobyS

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My luck...another money pit. Thanks. I'll see if he can cut me a deal and only charge me $250ea.
 

tobyS

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You might get it to work out, maybe. With any luck he won't charge you shipping, too.
They are really expensive to not own .

This may ruin my desire to get one and take off the front bucket and back excavator and instead settle for a SS. I read there may be a flood of them coming. Oh, should not say flood and SS in the same sentence or might jinx the electronics.
 

tobyS

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A flood of SSs, huh? If they're '70 Chevelles I'm in. Even if they have electronics.
My first car was a 64 Nova SS...had that racing 6 cylinder and 2 speed auto with nice leather bucket seats. Wish I had that now.
 

The FLU farm

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Hey, don't knock the PowerGlide. They're the choice of drag racers now.
But it surprises me that an SS could come with a six banger. Okay, not really. Few things surprise me anymore. Well, except for me surprising myself, frequently.
 

tobyS

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I was jealous when my friends had 327's. Maybe 2 speeds are good for a top fuel dragster, but a muncie four gear was the goal at the time. I was all for Chevy

Oddly enough I bought a Dodge Corronet with a 272...which we got amazing power from, 727b guts in a 727a tranny (i think) and 10" Dana posi. Had a muffler on each header that made me legal, but my mom had to borrow it once and got warned about bumper height. The man that mentored me was racing Hemi's at the time and knew exactly what to do to that 272 to make it perform with the 383's and small block chevy.

With the part above, I bought the lot for hydraulic foot pedals and a really nice cable throttle petal. I don't know what they are to, but it is a failsafe hydraulic, dual circuit brake that has a dual circuit accumulator, so loss of hydraulic source (like engine out), does not mean no brakes...

I don't think they are for a unimog....but while I'm running up a bill, here is a photo.
 

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The FLU farm

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Hey, that's some interesting stuff you have pictured there. What the heck is it for?!?
Okay, the treadle valves I'm familiar with, but those hydraulic(?) gizmos.

I have a 727 in my Postal Jeep, of all things. It was actually factory, behind 232 Sixes. Now there's a 300 transfer case behind it, and Detroits in both Dana 44s.
 

tobyS

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Hey, that's some interesting stuff you have pictured there. What the heck is it for?!?
Okay, the treadle valves I'm familiar with, but those hydraulic(?) gizmos.

I have a 727 in my Postal Jeep, of all things. It was actually factory, behind 232 Sixes. Now there's a 300 transfer case behind it, and Detroits in both Dana 44s.
My friend built the tranny using clutches and such from the b and put in the a. Man that was a long time ago, but probably the strongest running car I have had. I had a 340 duster with (3) 2 barrels...just when the Arab oil embargo hit...so went for fuel economy and sold it cheap...instead of 3-5 mpg.

The hydraulic pedal (x5) is hard to understand it's function. It releases pressure as you depress it further and there are 2 circuits (front and rear of a loader or something). Of course I bought it from a couple of pictures as complete speculation, but hopeful it may be useful for operation of a sawmill that I'm compiling parts for and have partly under construction.
 

The FLU farm

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You should've kept that 272, from the sounds of it. And the Duster...which is likely worth 10 times what you sold it for.

Okay, so I'm used to air operated brake valves, and you are now the proud owner of similar looking hydraulic ones, but infinitely more complex. Surely there must be a simpler way to bring a saw mill to a stop?
Which in itself intrigues me - I've never built a saw mill.
 

tobyS

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You should've kept that 272, from the sounds of it. And the Duster...which is likely worth 10 times what you sold it for.

Okay, so I'm used to air operated brake valves, and you are now the proud owner of similar looking hydraulic ones, but infinitely more complex. Surely there must be a simpler way to bring a saw mill to a stop?
Which in itself intrigues me - I've never built a saw mill.
I have. I specialize in ultra high tension, very thin bands for cutting hardwood. I had a patent being issued in 88 and built a machine operating at twice any machines known tension...and not break bands prematurely. I dropped the patent just before it issued when I witnessed about 30 Asian countries in the US Patent Office taking patents for the cost of a copy.

One thing that I learned in making the first bandsaw sawmill is that blades do eventually break. I had frozen logs that I thought had thaw out and wrecked 3 blades (three different times). Because the band saw power end is a hydraulic motor, letting off of the joystick control button safely brakes the drive wheel to a stop. But it doesn't the free wheel. Because the blade speed is right at 90 miles an hour, it keeps spinning. Precision angle contact bearings provides no braking on that free wheel. So I had a broken blade that could fillet you loose with one wheel turning at very high speed. Not pretty.

The blade grabbed the rotating wheel and wrapped it'self about thirty times around the axle and frame...but didn't come out of the cover at all. Had to dis-assemble to get it out.

So I figure I have a brake system for my next saws...which several are required to make thin hardwood and laminating stocks... aka "product". It's coming together as "Manitou Hardwood". I have .com domain and corp name reserved and expect to do equity crowdfunding in the near future.
 

peakbagger

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In my limited opinion (IMLO), there will be market for these castings at some point as new steel soldier owners learn that not checking portal oil on occasion could lead to major damage of the hub and associated housing. They will have a choice of buying one your housings or buying either a new or completely rebuilt entire portal axle for around $2 grandplus shipping or your rig. Of course if the portal is trashed there are a lot of expensive gears and bearings that are also trashed so buying the complete assembly probably makes more sense. Someone somewhere are buying the parts SEEs at auctions and expect at some point these parts will enter the market.

I have met someone who damaged a portal axle on a 404 by abusing it severely but expect the odds of finding someone who needs them when you are selling them is poor. Just for the chuckles you can sign up on Benz world and list them in the for sale section as these will fit any 406 to 416 series. Just make sure you figure out how much it costs to ship them.
 

tobyS

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Looks like you are too far off the main road for others to see your art. Thanks for posting!

Rick
Oh no...I live on a major highway...lots of public exposure. Art may sell faster than green trucks.

Pictures show near the house which is 1/4 mile from the road...but it's there.
 
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The FLU farm

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In my limited opinion (IMLO), there will be market for these castings at some point as new steel soldier owners learn that not checking portal oil on occasion could lead to major damage of the hub and associated housing.
Aw, c'mon peakbagger. Are you suggesting that it would be better to first inspect/change fluids, grease Zerks, etc., than to fire up your new purchase and see what it can do?
That could remove the very real possibility of getting a more intimate knowledge of the inner workings of our machines.
 
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