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Thread: All 5-tons: Heavy Duty Torque Rod Ends

  1. #41
    Sergeant cwedge411's Avatar
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    I think it depends which one fails...if the pass lower fails i think the upper will hold...I can tell you the driver fails and the axle rotates and the drive shaft comes out...Fortunately i was coming to a stop so I didn't die lol..
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    Any update to a cheaper source on these?
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    deleted see next..................
    ROK 20120930_dogbones 151727.jpg
    Last edited by frank8003; 01-05-2018 at 09:32.
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    Is the torque rod a "dogbone"?
    This is for the Deuce ROK version KM250, disallows dogbone coming apart on failure.
    They could have a solution for the 5 tons too, K711?
    Some should maybe look that up.
    ROK 20120930_dogbones 151727.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by frank8003 View Post
    Is the torque rod a "dogbone"?
    This is for the Deuce ROK version KM250, disallows dogbone coming apart on failure.
    They could have a solution for the 5 tons too, K711?
    Some should maybe look that up.
    ROK 20120930_dogbones 151727.jpg

    and post 9+11 in here
    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...itary-Vehicles
    Still the failure prone rubber design (just a backet added for when it fails).

    Been searching trying to find a cheaper distributor for these metal ones with no luck. Simp, care to inform the rest of us on your supplier and testing results? Been awhile.
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  6. #46
    4 Star General 74M35A2's Avatar
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    After having 3 fall apart on 2 off-road trips, I have resorted to parking the truck until I can replace all 12 (well, 11 now since I renewed one so far). I have been fortunate in that the ones that failed on me have been passenger side lower. If driver side lower, the axle can shift enough to cause damage, and if upper, the axle will rotate and break everything attached to it. The rotational force of braking is much higher than acceleration in these vehicles, so it seems these usually will pop off during on-road braking, or off road uneven surface.

    Best ballpark pricing I have seen so far appears to be about $50ea for stock replacement, and $100ea for the ball-joint type. The ball joint type do have a flange on their back side to retain the control arm firmly, only question on them is ability of the ball-socket to stay in place.


    My choice is going to be all new stock replacements, drilled and tapped 1/2" thread in the center on lathe before installation for securement of a large metal plate, in essence same as the M35 posted above. If the rod end hits during full articulation, the round plates can easily be removed, cut down into rectangles, and reinstalled.

    I have been fortunate enough to be able to use large ratchet straps to hold the axle in proper place for a 1 hour freeway drive home @ 60mph, both times. Re-tightened and check each mile for the first 3 miles, then go. Problem-free.

    High-5 to SwampDonky for the shallow-angle tool he fabbed to work the pass side top-center castle nuts. No spring pack work necessary. I eBay'd a 2-1/4" socket to make the same tool.

    The cotter pins basically do not come out. I simply turned the nut with them in place and sheared them off. I think even then they may not be able to be pin-punched out. Some have drilled, but in my case, I am not re-using, so whatever.

    I hate tapered joints, but was surprised how easily they did come apart. I just followed the wood splitter wedge trick posted, whacked the axle side metal a few times, and off it came.
    Last edited by 74M35A2; 01-05-2018 at 12:05.
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  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74M35A2 View Post
    After having 3 fall apart on 2 off-road trips, I have resorted to parking the truck until I can replace all 12 (well, 11 now since I renewed one so far). I have been fortunate in that the ones that failed on me have been passenger side lower. If driver side lower, the axle can shift enough to cause damage, and if upper, the axle will rotate and break everything attached to it. The rotational force of braking is much higher than acceleration in these vehicles, so it seems these usually will pop off during on-road braking, or off road uneven surface.

    Best ballpark pricing I have seen so far appears to be about $50ea for stock replacement, and $100ea for the ball-joint type. The ball joint type do have a flange on their back side to retain the control arm firmly, only question on them is ability of the ball-socket to stay in place.


    My choice is going to be all new stock replacements, drilled and tapped 1/2" thread in the center on lathe before installation for securement of a large metal plate, in essence same as the M35 posted above. If the rod end hits during full articulation, the round plates can easily be removed, cut down into rectangles, and reinstalled.

    I have been fortunate enough to be able to use large ratchet straps to hold the axle in proper place for a 1 hour freeway drive home @ 60mph, both times. Re-tightened and check each mile for the first 3 miles, then go. Problem-free.

    High-5 to SwampDonky for the shallow-angle tool he fabbed to work the pass side top-center castle nuts. No spring pack work necessary. I eBay'd a 2-1/4" socket to make the same tool.

    The cotter pins basically do not come out. I simply turned the nut with them in place and sheared them off. I think even then they may not be able to be pin-punched out. Some have drilled, but in my case, I am not re-using, so whatever.

    I hate tapered joints, but was surprised how easily they did come apart. I just followed the wood splitter wedge trick posted, whacked the axle side metal a few times, and off it came.
    Any pics or a link to the tool for the upper castle nuts? With my luck, mine will fail and I rather make the tool than disassemble half the rear end suspension to change them out.
    1991 M923a2

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    4 Star General 74M35A2's Avatar
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    I guess it is not a Chinese secret since he posted it. It is one of those posts that are valuable, yet hidden in the bowels of the castle. Kind of like the Volvo charge air cooler 4xDesign added to his 8.3L (a perfect, factory like fit around the stock radiator).

    Wrench build pics: Post #4929 here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...s-week/page493
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  11. #49
    I'm the dude, man! Steel Soldiers Vendor simp5782's Avatar
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    The process of getting the "HD inserts" thru a parts supplier I use said I would have to order atleast 10 sets of 12 in order to get a "cheap price" @ $80 each. I only have 2 of the HD ones on my truck on the upper arm for the front tandem. I run just regular old ones as my other inserts go. They are all at least 8 years old or older. I replaced the HD ones cause I had 2 laying around when I did the wrecker spring swap and threw it on. In my opinion, they aren't worth it. Some of the tub grinder towing trucks have them and on tight turns with a load on them the axles don't seem to lateral move enough to not over bind like the stock inserts do. I try not to over turn my truck with a load in the bed just to not put too much stress to make one tear. But with that being said, I put more wear and tear on them than anyone here between the things i tow around on the trailer and in the bed of the truck with the impacts on pot holes and bridges and some offroad time while loaded and the stock ones hold up just fine for me. I would just add the weld across the back for a fix if you feel cautious about them. otherwise just update them with some new ones if yours are getting old.

    My only opinion on the HD ones would be to install them on both upper arms since when those come loose they do some damage and can be a real chore to get the axle back up under the truck or into position again. Especially on the road. The lower inserts popping off isn't going to do much other than inconvenience you. With the washers or rebar on the back of them, no worries. To me they aren't worth the extreme cost at Erik's and I am not the type to dish out around $8000 and hope i sell em all or have buyers lined up for them.
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  13. #50
    4 Star General frank8003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74M35A2 View Post
    I guess it is not a Chinese secret since he posted it. It is one of those posts that are valuable, yet hidden in the bowels of the castle. ~
    Wrench build pics: Post #4929 here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...s-week/page493
    wrench one 20160920_164803.jpg

    wrench two 20160920_164949.jpg

    wrench three 20160920_165007.jpg

    wrench four of four 20160920_184428.jpg
    I was here, had a good time.

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