20kw Generator - Drash / Applied trailer battery question

Well, this thread turned into my repair thread. Maybe a mod can change the title to be something like "20kW generator - GET trailer recovery" or "How many questions can therooster2001 ask" or something MWMULES like.

Started the engine up, and it runs for about 5 min then starts to stutter, and I give it a quick squeeze on the fuel primer bulb and it goes for another 5. Air is getting in somewhere. ALL of the pipe clamps were loose. Tightened them, and I got it to be around 10-15 min before it stutters. So I will tighten them again, and then probably replace all of them. The pipe clamp ones are easy, but the yellow plastic ones are a bit of a mystery right now.
Speaking of mysteries, right next to my IP is a cap. Its nowhere on any pictures, and honestly looks like it has oil in it when I took it off.

Here's the manual:


What the heck is that?


I also had a mysterious sound, that I identified when i shut it off. The fan / alternator belt was very loose. I went to adjust it by the alternator and the screw kept spinning. Might be the threads on the ear of the alternator, but check out this screw. Some funky stuff there. I will see if it's the wrong size, or it's just stripped. I think I will end up putting a nut on the end and tightening and calling it good.



I found the manual stuffed in the tool box. Score. Kind of. It's mashed and dirty. I can not find it anywhere online. Labeled TM 11490A-OR. Anyone?


R407C on it's way, as well as new gauges. Probably do it in a couple of weeks when I have my AC buddy with me to not miss a step, and to bum his vacuum pump. Redoing the battery charger fuses as someone clipped them on one battery. and making better hold downs, as I think the newer Optima's don't have the same hold points.
I was just happy the forecast changed and I got to work on the tan iron (well aluminum) and not get soaked, it's rainy season in CO.

And by "yellow plastic ones" I mean these, which I've never dealt with. And what / where is the fuel selector valve? It's not in the pict.




EDIT: I guess these are fairly common and are just the stoppers and the barbs are underneath...

Could be a bad water pump. Had that in a few. Dry rotted lines. Or fuel filter o rings not seated right. Did you completely drain the fuel tank? And put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in? Every one I have had, had some water in the fuel.

Everything you foind i jave had to deal with on almost every unit i have picked up one way or another. Each one had a different issue. How about giving me a call. Send me a private message anf ill give you me cell number. Also the fuel issue is most likely the top cap on yhe fuel pump. It has a si gle screw in the middle that holds it on. There is a screen and oring under it to seal it. I had a unit doing the same thing but only under heavier loads. Even after i changed all fuel lines. But yeah call me. Way to much to type. I plan on putting everything in line here at the site soon. I also have all part numbers for proper belt filters and hose. Look forwad tobtalking with you.

Will, the unit's fuel was drained, and i couldn't get any from the pickup via the primer bulb. Its still possible there was water in there that couldn't get out, I will have to park it on a hill to get all of it if I drain it again. I put in 5 gallons, and might just drain it out again just to be sure, but it will actually stall out and I bet quit completely if I didn't give the primer a quick squeeze. I will check Jon's suggestion on the fuel pump as well (didn't even know it had an o-ring there) and I had ordered new lines (coming from the UK, doing the same 300PSI 5/16 lines). Still getting a line on the correct bulb (probably not necessary, but just to be thorough).

Jon, sent a PM. Thanks!

Needs 10 gal sometimes 5 isnt enough especially if you are not quite level.

No problem. You can get all the fuel lines from napa or any marine grade 5/16 fuel l8ne will work.the yell ends ar just push lock fitting that you dont need clamps for. You can just split the old hose off with a razor and push the new hose on. I have done this on all three of my units. It works great. Look forward to chatting with you. Jon

Had an hour conversation with armyrino this week. He helped me through several questions and 101 items for these trailers. He has three and had gone through the different issues the all uniquely had. He also helped me on basic theory to get the AC fully back operational, and some workaround to the operating temperature. Thank you Jon!

Drained all the fuel, which looked pretty good. I don't think I had water in there. I replaced the fuel filter, and had to dig out the top o-ring from the housing.


Then took off that screw armyrino mentioned on the fuel pump. He was dead on. Here is what is looked like.


Before:


After:


Put in 10 gallons of fresh fuel, fired it up, no leaks and no stutter. Runs like a champ. Also redid the bolt for the alternator. The threads seemed to be stripped, so just did a longer bolt, and a lock washer and nut. No more belt slop, but it still seems to be noisy. Jon also has the new belt specs.

I have a couple more things to tackle before I move onto the generator side and try a load. The biggie is to get it to a spot where I can deploy the grounding rod for safety. I have some panel lights that seem inop, so may have to chase that. Hoping it's a fuse or burned out bulbs. Besides the little panel lights, I am researching the J1 contactor as its referenced on the data plate in operating instructions. Then it's onto the AC, which I need to gauge check then most likely recharge. My 407c is supposed to come in this week, along with a new vacuum pump.

A huge thanks to Jon for all the info and guidance on the phone. No matter all the reading you do, nothing is like having an expert on the phone. Another thanks to Will as well for his sharing of the TM's, questions answered before I even got mine, and his experience he shared here. Not to forgot a thanks to Simp who hauled it off the GP lot for me, and Ford Mechanic who stored, shuffled it around to a spot where my driver could pick it up, and who coordinated with two drivers, and then loaded it. Without all of you, I couldn't be geeking on this fine piece of iron. It's this sharing and community that makes this hobby fulfilling for me. Thank you guys.

The contactor is controlled by a panel switch left bottom. It's only for the front panel 3-phase output. The AC unit has power regardless. You can start by using the AC unit in heat mode for a load on the generator.

Good idea on the heat. I've tried the switch, but it didn't seem to light when i activate it up or down. Also haven't hooked up the front panel outs yet, but I would think it would light.

Make sure panel breakers are on

Suprman said:

Make sure panel breakers are on

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I think you mean the big 208v breakers? Those are definitely not on yet (until I try the heat or the AC). Again, when I ground it, and throw those switches, maybe that's the trick. Thanks will.

You can run it and run the ac without a ground rod I do it all the time. If you are running something off the generator just run a ground wire to a fence or pipe that goes into the ground. Dosnt need to be a thick wire.

Randy make sure the main ac breaker on the back side of the control box is on. Most of them were turned off on mine. Its above the generator housing inside the enclosure. Youll see it if you look on the back side of the control box.it a 3phase breaker. That isolates the main feed feom the generator to the control transger switch.

armyrino said:

I have several of the Applied trailers. I use a standard group 24 battery with the dual post types and they work great. I also have all the filter numbers and belt numbers if you need them.

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yes, if you could provide all the filter numbers, that would be great. Mine came with none, and all fluids drained. I need all - Air, Fuel, Oil. As well as the correct oil to use, and anything else basic to get it running again. Thanks to this thread, i know the proper batteries to purchase. thanks!

I will post all filter numbers and the belt numbers shortly.

If you want the originals (I could only find OLD NOS), they are getting a little sparse on the Bay.

I also got snooty and ordered new fuel line from the UK (300psi) but the civi stuff would work just fine.

GENUINE PERKINS OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY 140517050
Perkins Powerpart Fuel Filter 26560017
DONALDSON P821575 & P822858 AIR FILTER SET - Yes, both!

Check the data plate to see the refrigerant. Oil I used was 15W40 - Same as in the truck.
no matter what batteries, make sure you make tie downs or you might have the originals. The batteries vibrate quickly around if not tied down. I made my tie downs from J-hooks, aluminum square tubing, and then some heater hose for cushion and just in case it gets close to metal. I only had one original tie down.
Clean the inline filter!
Read the other thread. It was about a fuel issue (which some have, then for some reason turned into a build thread for me) and then some troubleshooting, and AC stuff.
Drash/GET Perkins 20KW no fuel problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c

Used Wally World Group 26 batteries. I cut out the battery hold downs so they wouldn't contact the terminal posts. Still not overly happy about the layout but couldn't justify Optimas until I know this system is good to go.

Fired up on third crank and the first crank didn't count. El Swifto here forgot to prime. No leaks at that this point.

Fired up and purred. Sounded great!!!!

It was dark by this point. Panel light on right side works, left side no. Digital panel does not work. CB1 is on. Flipped on the utility recep and nothing.

Little light on generator says In Frequency (green).

Then I saw the fuel filter. It is leaking like a sieve so I must not have seated one of the gaskets correctly. Too dark to deal with it so that was it for the night.

Happy for now.

Powered up the system and turned on the heater (it was already in the upper 90's) to make the system work. Ran it over an hour. The temp gauge went to 181-185 ish and leveled out there. The R22 is on hand and awaiting the AC guy this week. He will vacuum test the system and then fill it, assuming nothing is wrong. After that this thing will probably get used each weekend to cool the garage. I dang near had heat stroke in there this past weekend and it's not even July. Good news is that I'm in Texas. In the famous words of Davy Crockett, "You can go to he!! and I will go to Texas."

csheath said:

If you want a standard type inexpensive battery you might can use a Value Power group 26 from wally world. Size is (L x W x H) 6.80 x 8.20 x 7.80 Inches. They are 525 CCA. Price at my location is $50 plus core and gov fees. Two of em spin my 803A just fine.

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Please disregard this suggestion from any further consideration. It seemed like a good idea at the time but I am on my second set of the "Value Power" batteries in a year and a half and they are failing again.

I have had good results with Walmart's Everstart batteries and hoped these would be okay but it has proven to be a bad choice.