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24v to 12v converter hmmwv

Bravojmc

New member
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Palisade, Colorado
I've got all the parts and I'm just trying to figure out what wires go to what. Also do I need a fuse between the converter box and the fuse block. The 24 V wires go to?. I am in no way electrical inclined! Do I take the negative wire from the 12 V out from the converter and ground it straight to the chassis?y do I take the negative wire from the 12 V out from the converter and ground it straight to the chassis? Also do I take the negative wire from the 24 V side and the ground to the chassis? Here's a picture of what I've got.
IMG_7669.jpg
 

Bravojmc

New member
512
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Location
Palisade, Colorado
There's a diagram at the following link that shows how my Pyle converter is connected:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Installation&p=1513240&viewfull=1#post1513240


Edit:

There was more info in post #27 of the same thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Installation&p=1516537&viewfull=1#post1516537
So my converted box has no instructions... There's positive 24 V and negative 24 V I'm guessing the 24V positive goes
on the main chassis positive in the battery box and the 24v negative goes to the negative grounding bar in the battery box...? As for the positive 12v goes to my new fuse block and negative 12v goes...? Grounded to chassis...?
IMG_7672.jpg
 

papakb

Well-known member
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1,185
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Location
San Jose, Ca
Treat the +24v side and the +12v side as independent circuits. The -12 and -24v leads should be connected together to give all circuits in your truck a common ground referenced to the negative side of the vehicle battery. I would recommend both a switch and a fuse on the input to the 24/12 converter. Do not connect the converter directly to the batteries as it will draw power even when the truck is turned off. This gives you the ability to take the converter offline if you don't need anything running on the +12v side. The size of the fuse you'll need depends on the current capacity of the converter you use. For example, if you buy a 20 amp converter then fuse it at 20 amps. If it's properly engineered it should be able to stand a 10-20% overload before failing so a 20 amp fuse is enough to protect the input. I would also recommend either fusing the output lead between the converted and terminal block at a slightly lower current level to protect the converted from a shorted output or using a terminal block with individual fuses that can be tailored to the equipment your supplying +12v power to.
 
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